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Plik's 2011 TDR sport DCSB build

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Old 12-30-2012, 08:43 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by KPT View Post
Love it. Absolutely love it
X2^^^^^^
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:22 PM   #23
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Ragin Cajun
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Originally Posted by Eagledynasty View Post
Great lookin truck! I'm sub'd!

2 questions-Where did you find the Land Cruiser 87 emblem? and where did you get the elusive elements behind grille light bar.

Thanks
I got the emblem off a toyota online parts site ...toyota part # 75311-90K00
The light bar is made by BAMF now, check out their vendor page... http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/bay...l-fabrication/

Thanks for all the positive feed back guys! The fiance order a set of avid step bars for me (for her really). So more pics to come in a few weeks.
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:09 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Plik View Post
I got the emblem off a toyota online parts site ...toyota part # 75311-90K00
The light bar is made by BAMF now, check out their vendor page... http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/bay...l-fabrication/

Thanks for all the positive feed back guys! The fiance order a set of avid step bars for me (for her really). So more pics to come in a few weeks.
Cool thanks a lot!
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:36 PM   #25
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Nice set up man! classy look. Do your tires rub at all with that set up?
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:42 PM   #26
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Sweet ride you've set up! Love the grill emblem and wheel/tire combo!
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:55 AM   #27
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Ragin Cajun
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Originally Posted by Ubeslife View Post
Nice set up man! classy look. Do your tires rub at all with that set up?
Needed a little trimming on the front wheel well lining. No other rubbing.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:51 PM   #28
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Aux. Fuse Box Wright Up

I've had a few members ask for a wright up on my fuse box design, so here it goes..

items you will need...

- 12 slot Blue Sea Fuse block

- 100 amp blue sea panel mount breaker

- Hammond heavy duty ABS project box, PN: 1594EBK

- Sheet of 1/4" thick plexiglass

- 4 ft, of 4 or 6 gauge copper core wire

- qty 4, crimp on ring terminals

- qty 4, #8 x 2-1/2" machine screws w/ lock nuts and washers

- qty 4, #8 x 3/4" aluminum spacers

- qty 2, M8 x 25mm socket cap screw w/ washers

- qty 2, M6 x 25mm socket cap screw w/ nuts

- qty 3, 1/2" rubber hole grommets

Step1: Fab up your Bracket mount:

Basically just get a piece of cardboard and mock up your bracket to position the box as you want. Trace the cardboard out on to the plexiglass with a sharpie, make sure to mark the mount holes and bend line locations. The plexiglass can be scribed with a safety knife and "snapped" for long strait lines cuts, otherwise use a hack saw. Drill out your two 8M mounting holes a this point too.

Once you have your basic shape cut out, use a blow torch to heat the plexiglass along the bend line.. once you start to see tiny bubbles in the glass it should be hot enough to bend.. I used two pieces of 2x4 and a table vise for this.. bend to desired angle and hold until the glass hardens.

Step 2: Mounting the block and breaker:

You will want to space the fuse block up about 3/4" from the bottom of the project box to allow clearance for running the wires underneath.. this is where the aluminum spacers come in. First position the block to one end of the box and use a punch to mark your 4 mounting holes. Line up your box and bracket and drill out your holes. Test fit by fastening the box to the bracket using the #8 screws and the spacers. You can now finish off the bracket by rounding off the corners and painting it if you wish.

Cut out a square section on the front of the box to mount the breaker. You will need to space the breaker forward about 1/8" to allow for more clearance. I used the piece I cut out to fab up some spacers, but you can also use washer. .. once you have the breaker positioned strait (Batt terminal up) , punch and drill your mounting holes, fasten with the M6 socket cap screws ans nuts.

Drill out three 1/2" holes near the rear of the box and pop in your 1/2" hole grommets.. this should leave you with 3/8" holes, just big enough to fit a 4 gauge wire through.

Step 3: Wiring:

All the wiring will feed under the fuse box, I routed everything into the box and then out, so there is 12v main in (hole one), 12v switch in (hole 2), 12v lights power and relay bundle out (hole 3). Once you have all of your wires run, bolt it all together then connect the positive terminal on your fuse block.


lessons learned/ ideas:

- take your time with the plexiglass i cracked one bracket by letting it cool to long and bending it.

- instead of spacers you may want to consider using hex unions.. that way you can remove the fuse block will keeping the box mounted to the bracket.

-4 gauge is thick, takes some manhandling to position it in the box, if you don't plan of fully populating the fuse block, maybe go with 6 gauge.

- I'm noticing some surface rust on the socket head cap screws, you may want to go with stainless.

-The project box will probably fit a 6 slot fuse block with ground terminals, all you would need to do is drill an extra hole for the ground wire.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:27 AM   #30
Plik [OP] Plik is online now
Ragin Cajun
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Got my Avid step bars in yesterday... sanded, primed and painted them this morning. I used rustoleum truck bed liner, stuff looks amazing. I'm going to wait the full 72 hours for it to cure before I install them. More pics to come.







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Old 01-26-2013, 05:53 PM   #32
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They are looking good! Also, that means I'm one more order closer to getting mine!
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:05 AM   #34
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Yep, that's her.. Waiting to get media blasted
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:28 AM   #36
Plik [OP] Plik is online now
Ragin Cajun
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B5 blue
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:59 AM   #38
Plik [OP] Plik is online now
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yeah, no problem.. I was thinking about starting a build thread for it.. once i get into the good stuff like patch/body work.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:14 PM   #39
Plik [OP] Plik is online now
Ragin Cajun
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Mounted the step bars today.. and the fiance couldn't be happier lol. I have to give props to Avid, they did a nice job on these.



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