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Old 05-21-2013, 07:24 PM   #81
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More Carbon Wrapping!! After ripping off my door and old kit again, i only did manage to finish one side which is the drivers side hopefully il get to the passenger in the next couple of days





Here's the true before and after



After



As said before, look at it up close its not perfect but it looks pretty sweet
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:18 PM   #82
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Got the other door done (passenger door) and it turned out just as good as the driver's door.

So i'l give a bit more of an explanation on how i did the door handle

1. Take the door off with the video that Torspd has posted on my build and cut the vinyl to cover the complete section of the door handle. BE SURE TO CLEAN! If you have adhesive promoter put it on before applying the vinyl.

I had to rip off my old kit again and clean it all up. Once its clean lay the vinyl evenly and use heat to get rid of the air bubbles until it turns out like this



2. You can try and stretch the vinyl into the door handle area but i found it easier to cut the hole like a pizza and cut a patch to put it in after. Heat works well here for molding the peices

3.Cut the outside edge of the vinyl with a SHARP knife, you should be able to follow the crease between the door and speaker/handle piece. Once its cut all around, pull up and edge of the corner of the excess and lift it out of the way



4.Do the same with the speaker. This one is a lot more trickier so take your time with it!



5.Once your happy with it and have the nicks out, put your door back together and your done!




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Old 06-02-2013, 12:57 AM   #83
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Lets Start Stage 3!

Today i installed the thermostat, FPR and the 2.7 pulley!! Gotta thank gadget after a couple calls to get some issues clarified! As well for my friend for giving me a hand and using his shop. These 3 projects took us a little over 4 and a half hours to complete with this order.


1)FPR Mod Install

DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible for any damage to your vehicle for improper installation. This is only used for a GUIDE.

I have a few schematics to help you located the lines and how they all come together.





Depressurize the fuel system. Pop off your fuse box cover and look underneath of it and it should tell you which fuse belongs to the fuel pump. Pop it out then start your engine until it stalls, once it stalls crank it over a bit more to make sure there's no more pressure in the lines.



Once you are sure there's no more pressure, start loosening the 10mm bolts for the OEM fuel regulator. (You may need to disconnect the electrical lines to the injectors and spark plugs for you can move em out of your way to reach the OEM regulator)

WARNING: Some fuel still might spill out, it sure did for me when i broke the line. It wasnt alot thought.



Once you have the screws out you'll need to find/routet the rubber return line connected to the steel line. When you find it pop off the plastic connector and then squeeze the two yellow tabs to pop off the plastic hose.





After that, make sure to take the rubber fuel hose out of some holders, pull on it on the side where the regulator is and then simply pull it all out. (Be sure to disconnect the rubber hose connected to your intake before the throttle body)



Then you are now ready to install the aftermarket fuel rail attachment to the fuel rail. Use the same 10mm screws that got pulled out of the OEM regulator

NOTE: Depending where you have placed your regulator and what type of fittings you have it may be easier to hook up the line to the piece before installing for your hand isnt cramped when you try to put your fuel line in! Cut to the specific length you need!





Once that is finished it is time to install the return line that will connect to your regulator. MAKE SURE ITS A 3/8" HOSE. Cut to the specific length you need and slip it on the steel return line. Make sure to go past the two raised edges on the line!



HARD TO SEE BUT THE RUBBER LINE IS CONNECTED!


After that grab two hose clamps and feel for the steel line edge and put one on that edge. Don't put it on the raised edges!

Then the other will be clamped on the bottom after the raised edges!



Once that is done make the rubber fuel line go behind the supercharger OR wherever else you have your regulator placed and let it hang.

Now start placing all your other fittings/gauge that you need on your regulator and place it/mount it where it will go in the engine bay

NOTE: Before atually mounting it it may be easier to let it sit somewhere on the engine so it can be easier to slip the lines on depending on what kind of fittings you have.





To connect the fuel lines:

1)The line coming from the fuel rail goes into the INLET of your regulator
2)The line coming from the steel return line goes to the OUTLET of your regulator



You are now ready for the boost line. i used a 3/16" line to connect from the TRD blower boost port to my fuel regulator.





Once everything is tight and ready to go. Put back your fuse for your fuel pump and start your engine!

NOTE: It might take a bit of cranking since the lines have no fuel, keep cranking until your engine starts!
Once the engine has started. check where your regulator pressure is!! Mine started at 20 psi and that is WAY to low! Set your regulator for it stays at 43.5 PSI at IDLE WITH THE VACUUM HOSE OFF!



2) A New thermostat!

First off is taking off my skidplate and draining the coolant from the radiator. Once that is complete find your thermostat and take off the large hose connected to it



Then you'll need to take out the thermostat by using a 10mm socket. Once its pulled out remove the OEM thermostat from the two hooks.



Once remove you'll need to grind/cut down those two hooks to make room for URD's thermostat.



Then you'll need to take out the OEM studs from the housing since they are to short to hold the new adapter and the thermostat itself. (i double nutted the nuts to take em out)



After that its just a matter of bolting everything together using the screws that came with the URD thermostat.



Hook up your big hose from the radiator and fill it back up with toyotas super long life coolant again!


3) The 2.7 Pulley!!!

Here we go again, you've seen what ive done with the 2.8 some im not repeating myself all over again except for when the snout cutter comes into play.



Alright well you'll pretty much find on how to use the tool on URD's website but il show you some as well to help the images travel around. Its really easy to use and very effective!



So anyways you'll need to cut 10mm from that front edge. Well at first you think it wouldcut into the front seal right? Well once it starts cutting it actually doesnt cut the entire edge only half of it!





Once its cut, clean up the shavings and start heating the 2.7 pulley and press it on!











And here it is all together!!! YES ITS DIRTY! lol


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Old 06-02-2013, 10:09 AM   #84
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ISSUES!

I need some advice on why I'm running extremely rich!

On half throttle when the RPM's come around 3000 my afr starts at 10.2 once it hits 3500 RPM's my gauge is stuck at 10.0 and stays with any other higher RPM's/throttle

I got my friend to rev the engine up to around 4500 for I can see what kind of boost is going towards the fuel regulator. It looks like its going from 43psi to 52psi. Seems like once I'm in boost its injecting waayy to much fuel. My truck actually feels slower! lol

EDIT: Thank you torspd for letting me know i adjusted the fuel regulator wrong lol suppose to be done with the vacuum hose off! The regulator was saying i had 58psi running through my lines!!! It's all back to normal with a new afr of around 10.5 and the truck pulls even harder now!! ohhh yeaaahh
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:46 PM   #86
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Yeah, hopefully il get around doing it! It will be interesting to compare from the 2.8 pulley
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:51 PM   #87
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That carbon vinyl inside is SWEET! I might be doing something like that eventually here myself.
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Old 06-02-2013, 04:40 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memario1214 View Post
That carbon vinyl inside is SWEET! I might be doing something like that eventually here myself.
Thanks man, I'm just waiting on some adhesive promoter to finish up the rest of the pieces I wanna do. It does add a nice touch to your interior if you have the patience for it!
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:26 PM   #89
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A couple notes to consider that I've noticed with the the latest upgrades to the engine over the past few days

1)I'm still running ever slightly rich from 4500 RPM's+, afr is somewhere below 10.0

2)My engine is taking a few more seconds to start, is this because there's about 8 more feet of fuel line? lol

Other then that, I've been loving the new gain on the engine! Gas tank is going down fast these few days too lol
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:05 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToyotaTacoma4Ever View Post
A couple notes to consider that I've noticed with the the latest upgrades to the engine over the past few days

1)I'm still running ever slightly rich from 4500 RPM's+, afr is somewhere below 10.0

2)My engine is taking a few more seconds to start, is this because there's about 8 more feet of fuel line? lol

Other then that, I've been loving the new gain on the engine! Gas tank is going down fast these few days too lol
1) Shouldn't the FPR mod be able to adjust for this? That's partially what it's for no?

2) This shouldn't matter. The lines should maintain pressure even when the vehicle is off. Give it a few cycles and see what happens then.

Other than that was there a nice gain to the power?
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:31 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memario1214 View Post
1) Shouldn't the FPR mod be able to adjust for this? That's partially what it's for no?

2) This shouldn't matter. The lines should maintain pressure even when the vehicle is off. Give it a few cycles and see what happens then.

Other than that was there a nice gain to the power?
1) the purpose of the fuel pressure regulator was for when I'm in WOT, I'm not havin a high injector duty cycle. With the regulator I calculated that their running around 83% with 9lbs of boost at WOT. Without the regulator they would be at 94%!!

Maybe Torspd could shine a bit of light on me, could I lower the pressure ever so slightly? Lets say around to 40 psi??

2)I did a bit I testing with the fuel lines, got a friend to crank over the engine while I looked at the gauge. It pressurized instantly but still took a little bit of cranking before the engine started. So once the engine was shut off the fuel line de-pressurized to 0 psi again. So I wonder what's up with that then??

The gains feels the same when I went to the 3" to the 2.8"
So I'm sure you could imagine the same gain from the 2.8" to 2.7"
Now lets say from the 3" to a 2.7" you'd be amazed lol I like the supercharger way better with the 2.7" pulley than with the 2.8"
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:45 AM   #92
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Possibly the check valve in the pump might be acting up? That would be a good reason for a long start.

You can certainly try lowering the static pressure down to 40psi. If you get a CEL for something related to fuel trims being to far out of wack for to long, then you'll have to bump it back up. Also remember that if you do lower the static pressure, your IDC will increase at WOT. Try adusting down a psi at a time. That will be the best way to test.

The other feature of the aftermarket FPR, is that it has a larger diaphragm. So it keeps the fuel pressure more stable than a smaller diaphragm, of the OEM one.
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:26 AM   #93
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Looking at the schematics I can't find a check valve? Lol

Yeah 40psi is the max I wanna go since my IDC will be at 85% at WOT with the minimum 9psi of boost that this pulley should give me. Il give that try and see how things go.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:22 AM   #95
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Alright well lowering the fuel pressure sure seems it didn't do much at all to 40psi. Same outcome at around 4500 RPM's+ still somewhere below the 10.0 mark. That's telling me the AFR's are running really rich where it was at 43.5 psi!!

I shall continue looking into this to see what I come up with lol
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:39 AM   #96
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Did some tinkering with the fuel regulator and with the calculations I've been doing seems as if I'm gonna have to run my injectors at 85% I.D.C. to have a half decent AFR's at W.O.T.

So dropped the static pressure to 40 psi and well still too rich from 4500+RPM'S

Dropped the pressure again to around 37.5 psi and was getting better but still to rich around 4800+ RPM'S

One last time pressure drop to 35 psi and that's about as far as I will go. AFR's are still rich around 5200+ RPM's but other then that it's staying in the low 10's. This TRD tune sure makes the engine run rich -.-'

Then the fact dealing with the TRD injectors and not tryin to run a high I.D.C (injector duty cycle) lol
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:17 PM   #97
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You are the only person I know that has been mechanically tuning his fuel by way of adjustable FPR. Most people have just left it as is. Kudos to you sir.

Just remember, that having the base fuel pressure to low, could cause to much deviation in your fuel trims, and throw a CEL. Possibly. Just keep an eye out, and you'll be able to adjust as necessary.
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:33 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
You are the only person I know that has been mechanically tuning his fuel by way of adjustable FPR. Most people have just left it as is. Kudos to you sir.

Just remember, that having the base fuel pressure to low, could cause to much deviation in your fuel trims, and throw a CEL. Possibly. Just keep an eye out, and you'll be able to adjust as necessary.
Thanks! Suppose you work with what you've got

I can only hope for the best that I don't throw a CEL lol

I have a question though which I find strange, when you connect your vacuum hose the pressure drops a little more to like around 25 psi? And when I disconnect is goes back to 35 psi again? Why's that? probably something obvious I'm over thinking lol

EDIT: Silly me and getting reminded that vacuum pulls the diaphram in the FPR creating less pressure in the line
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:15 AM   #99
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Only some simple cosmetic changes again


1)Ripped off the TRD decals from the back quater panels (Same with that Noral Toyota on the side)








I think this makes the truck look a lot cleaner


2) I got this emblem off TacomaWorld, there also known as "Devil Horns" made by Andres. Waited about 2-3 months before it got to my door!


BEFORE





AFTER









3) A "new" cold air intake, really i bought this one second hand and its AFE's Stage 2 si. Thanks x20Runner05!


BEFORE





AFTER








Is there a difference in the first and second power for power feel? Truthfully probably not because i dont feel a difference what so ever lol i got it for better flow, but now im thinking its not going to matter


I did however notice that the second gen TRD doesnt have a lip under the box open to air in the engine while AFE's did. So on a dyno i have a feeling im sucking some hot air from the engine bay and actually losing a few ponies........


On the good side of things i got one ballin C.A.I. Cover!! lol
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:06 PM   #100
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Moar carbon fiber wrapping!

So first off this is probably the hardest piece ive done and i just might re-do it because after 4 hours with messing with it it didnt turn the way i expected it. It doesnt look the best at all but what a pain with the edges and what not!!!

Then finding out there was an eaiser way to do this simply by doing it in 2 pieces rather than just one big sheet lol

Anyways heres some pics















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