My Rhino Build Pics...

Who wants to come key the shit out of my truck!?!?! 

 

^j/k

 

Awe... too late :/

 

Your build looks great!! I just posted last night asking if anybody had heard of or seen any trucks that had this done to it. I've been thinking about this since I first saw Rhino liners. I was debating from doing a mixture of getting my truck painted black (its white now) and have rhino lined racing strips on the hood and some other areas (bottom of the side of the truck, by the doors and the bumpers). After seeing your truck I think I'm going to dive in and do it too. The only thing that I don't like is the grayish/fade look that I fear. I wonder how much of a "shine" the UV coating will add? Also didn't know they had it colored! I was going to ask them if they could add paint in it to add a colored tint. I have some deciding to do!! Great job on your truck!! Love it! Love the bumper too! I think it would look great with a hood w/ a scoop! Something to think about, but then you'll need to get it lined too!

 

Thanks yeah i thought about the hood scoop once but let that go...the UV protectant will keep it looking sharp. its quite a difference from UV and without UV. remember that whatever your trucks color is that will be whats left in the door jam areas unless they get crazy and open your doors up and tape it off when they do it

 

Have you ever thought about tinting the windows? It may go with the dark look that you have going on.

 

You know i actually havent but now that you mention i think you may be on to something. I'll keep that in mind. once im done with gears tires skids snorkel etc i'll definitely think about that. thanks

 

Dick Cepek MT....hoping for after this winter. I looked at a lot of tires and i think those will be awesome. Your ride is lookin better and better. Gotta love these Tacomas

Edit: I guess my suspicions were correct about your lift. I thought about just getting some adjustble shocks and a bigger block in the rear to snag 1-2 extra inches. So you think Billlstiens 5100s are they way to go? I'm definitely a novice in the shocks and coilovers world. Dont think i will SAS. would be nice but i think it would never stop for me if went that route but hey, we all talk out our ass when we set limits with these things

Oh yeah, Beefed made my sliders maybe i'll hit him up for a couple blocks before i leave

 

Thanks, i'll keep that in mind. i only want an inch or 2 at the most and youre definitely right about Brian's work. he takes it seriously and wants to put out a good product.

I cant wait to have these on my Tacoma

 

Ok so after a lot of looking around and help from TW I have found all my breathers and routed them into my cab. My experience was as follows:

Cell phone pics I know, but they turned out Ok so no worries. Wife broke the camera at Lake Cuyamaca.

I used (3) 3/8" plastic unions like this one. I needed one for the engine bay and one for underneath the cab and one for on top of my transmission.




This one went on top of the Transmission.The short piece of tubing will attach to the Transmission Breather and the long piece of tubing will run rearward from the Transmission Breather to meet up with my Rear Diff. (we'll cover that later)

You will need to neck down the small tubing a little more than shown because there is not much clearance between the bottom of the cab and the top of the transmission.



This is what the one way breather on the transmission looks like. well the top of it anyways. The breather itself is not coming out unless you drop the transmission and even then I don't know how you would do it since there is nothing to grab onto with a wrench or something. It seems pressed in or maybe just recessed.

To make it a two way breather valve just pop the cap off, take out the spring and valve cover, and then replace the silver cap on it. For my purposes here i just threw it away.


Here is a vid showing the location of the Transmission and T-Case Breather.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYQ093thBQ8&feature=player_embedded


Ok at this point be FOREWARNED that getting to the Transmission Breather is a PITA!

You have to lay on the ground on the passenger side and reach up on top of the transmission. Most of the work is done by feel and not by sight. You can also see it by pulling down some of the wheel well lining.

You need to get the cap off the Transmission Breather and this is how you can do it. You need a short flat head screwdriver (short because there is no room up there) and start to pry up on it, rotate the cap and do it some more working your way around the cap.




I found that I could only get so far this way and then had to go to Plan Z, Last Resort....I went into my cab, pulled up the carpet on the passenger side, and after a thorough assessment I chose the spot where I would drill my access hole. I used my biggest bit and it still needed to be a bit bigger. (An inch is about what you need to have workable room)

Through that hole (you will see this hole a little later) I was able to use my longest flat head screwdriver, after sharpening the tip, to pry up on the cap. Then I placed the screwdriver tip at the top of the silver cap and hit it with the palm of my hand. The cap just popped right off! Trust me you're not going to hurt that breather union, so just hit it until the cap pops off. I know it sounds like a lot but its really not too hard. The hole drilled into the cab is not that big a deal since you have 9 other holes in your cab already, but we'll talk about that later...

Moving on...

Once you get it off we need to get the Transfer Case Breather ready to be attached the T-Union. If you lay down on the drivers side you should be able to reach up on top of the transmission and feel around at the rear of the engine. Laying up against it will be the T-Case breather. I have pulled it down here.


You need to push that breather and all it's slack over the top of the transmission to the passenger side where the access hole is. Here is a couple of shots of it hanging down on the passenger side








Now you don't HAVE to do this but I found it easier to work with and gave me a chance to work in a better position than with my hands straight up while laying down

I cut the breather off the T-Case line




In a more comfortable position , I popped off the silver cap, attached a small piece of hose to the other side of the T-Union, and then via some hose clamps I attached the T-Case breather.

NOTE: While doing this pay attention to how far onto the breather your fuel line actually goes. It is just enough to get a hose clamp fully on it. Your Transmission Breather will be the same way. So when you working by feel and not by sight, this will give you and idea of whats going on up there )


Finished product is here ready for attaching. Again, the small section of fuel line that will go to the Transmission Breather will be shorter than this. Trimming happened after I took the pic. It was too tall when I tried to place it on the Transmission Breather due to the shortage of head room for it up there.




Now attach the T-Case Breather back to its line an then you're ready to attach it to the transmission. Make sure to put a hose clamp on the hose before attaching it to the Transmission Breather and face the tightening part of the hose clamp so it will be accessible from the access hole.



This is the hardest part if you ask me but worth it. You have to get the T-Union setup you have made onto the Transmission Breather. This is not easy but it can be done. This is looking through my access hole in the passenger side of the cab. I will get far off picture later when i finally find a plug that will work for it tomorrow.

Through this hole is where you will use a flat head screw driver to tighten the hose clamp.

Notice the placement of the hoses. The Transmission Breather sits down in a recessed position so it is hard to set your T-Union properly. The only position that would work for me was this: If we use the front of the truck as North then the T-Case Breather side is pointing North West and the line that is headed rearward to meet our Rear Diff line is pointing South West.

In my picture here the T-Case Breather line is on the right.


Once you've tightened the hose clamp onto the Transmission Breather you are ready to connect it to the Rear Diff Breather line. I'm not gong to beat up the Rear Diff because there is DIY threads for it already.

Here are the best 2:

Rear Diff Breather Mod

Scuba Mod

I used a vinyl tubing from Home Depot because it was cheaper than fuel line and I did the extension of this breather to the fuel door a while back before I bought the fuel line for this mod. I have had no problems with it and it has worked just fine.

I ran the line up above the fuel tank giving it enough slack for rear axle articulation.



There is some shields along the side of the fuel tank that allow for the line to be tucked in nicely behind them. You can jsut start to see one in the right side of this pic.



Once the line passed the fuel tank I zip tied it here a couple of times.



Here is where you will need your second T-Union. Run the hose from the Transmission Breather rearward until you see the very large rubber plug in the bottom of your cab just above the drive shaft.

There is where you will connect the transmission and transfer case line as well as the rear diff line to the T-Union. Then take another piece of fuel line which will be used to enter the cab from here and attach it t the T-Union.

Cut a hole the size of your fuel line in the rubber plug and then run it up into the cab. It will come out just under your console between the driver and passenger front seats. Just pop out your cup holder to access it.

Now just so you know I went a little overboard with the weather proof silicone but you can never be TOO water proof. You can use clear silicone but I used white so I would know that I had complete coverage.






This is a shot from the driver's side.




Taking the breather that I had attached to my rear diff in the fuel door I attached it to the end of my line here under the console.



Just lay the line down and replace your cup holder




Now on a side dote there is something I would like to cover and it is these plugs in the underside of your cab. There is 9 total. 3 on the passenger side, 3 on the driver side, and 3 in the middle of the cab. The large one we used here is the middle one of the middle 3. If that makes sense

When I went to pull them out they came out way to easy for my liking. You can see the bottom of the cab carpet. I just didn't feel like they were all very water proof. Now I understand that the pressure from the water should make them seal but I wasn't getting a warm and fuzzy feeling about this so I gave it a better seal.

This is the side that you will see when you pull it out.


When reinstalling I flipped it over so that you will now see this side after it has been put back in.



Apply a little bit of silicone around the edges and insert



You will see the silicone excess squeeze out. Just lightly run your finger around the plug to smooth it out and continue till all the plugs are sealed.

I know that there are also 2 more on the rear of the cab between the back of the bed and cab, 1 on the passenger and 1 on the driver side. They are lower down but not on the bottom. Mine are already sealed because I used them to run my antenna cables out of the cab and had already sealed them up.


Now back on track...we're almost done

The Front Diff and ADD are in the engine bay here on the bottom left of this pic



This is where you will use your 3rd T-Union. Cut the breather off of the Front diff line (IT IS THE BIGGER LINE). You will need this breather later inside the cab. The ADD breather will not work as it is like the T-Case breather and has a really skinny union to it.

Pop the silver cap off of the ADD line and then connect it via a short piece of fuel line and hose clamps to the T-Union just like was done with the Transfer Case Breather.

Then connect the Front diff line to the T-Union

Lastly take enough fuel line to reach into the cab and attach it to the T-Union. It should look like this when done



Now to run it into the cab. You will access the cab through here where all the other wiring enters behind the dash on the driver side. I actually inserted mine on the outside ring of the rubber grommet because it is way to tight in there to get it in with the already present wiring.

You'll have to cut a little hole in it but not too big because you want it to almost seal itself when it gets through there.



When it enters the cab it will be here just to the left of the clutch insert the breather that you cut off of the Front Diff line.



I ran mine up here behind the little compartment by the fuses.
(Those two switches are my ABS on/off switch to the right and a switch on the left to shut off my beeping when the door is open and keys are in the ignition)


Once you're done go ahead and seal off the hole from inside and outside of the cab with silicone to ensure a good seal. I used the clear weatherproof silicone for this one because there is wiring involved and I may need to know what wire is where sometime in the future, who knows.

So there it is 2 breathers in the cab with a total of 5 breather lines routed to them.

I know it seems like quite a chore but it really isn't. I used 3 plastic T-Unions and about 12 ft of fuel line (had quite a bit left over) and the one Breather Union from the Rear Diff DIY Mod. The hardest part for me was all the guessing and checking until I found what would work. If I had had something like this to go off of I could have done it in a couple of hours, but it took me all day

Now I just have to look into better door seals and a snorkel.

 

Go big or go home. I love this truck

 

hahaha thanks. I was just editing clerical error and clarifying certain steps.

 

ima breath new life into this thread because i want to do the same thing except i was considering line-x or grizzly grip coatings instead. in the first set of photos you have posted how long was it on the truckwas it new or older? and what color did you choose? any pros and or cons of doing this lol i have had this idea for years but never had the balls to try it until now lol but now i can't get the idea out of my head.

 

word! this is awesome!!!

 

The very first pics where you still see chrome where the same week it was done. Since about the first year it has not changed or faded any more. I chose black and did not want the UV protectant because i felt i was going to beat it up anyways...

As for line X i felt like that stuff was a lot harder and more brittle than rhino and thus would probably crack rather than flex when hitting something. then again rhino would be more susceptible to gouging but ive had it scraped pretty good and i think it would have to be sharp to gouge it.

if for looks get rhino or linex and go with what s cheapest. if for using it off road i would go with Rhino. when you finally do hit something i would rather have a dent to pop out than a big crack down the side of my truck from the linex splitting because it will crack. with the rhino you would have a dent and maybe a gouge depending on the sharpness of the object.

 

i do as well i find it relaxes me. buuut when its cold as shit out side id rather not wash the truck for like a hour and a half then wax it for another hour so that the water on my pants freezes hard as a rock lol that part i can do without. this truck looks evil as shit this is now my favorite truck on this here forum.

 

ok thats all i needed to know. i will go with the rhino lining but i will get the uv protectant thanks for the info! and dude seriously that truck is tits fucking tits!!!

 

Your crazy man. But a cool kinda crazy. My opinion, think you need to matte that grill and maybe go with a grillcraft.

 

Decal that shit if you dare mr. monkey!?

 

gjbonner,

Hows the truck? Wondering how the Line-x is holding up after almost 2 years? Anybody use the "UV Protection"? WOndering how it will fade over time.