Barlowrs 06 Taco Expo Build Thread

The dash is basically unmodified. All my switches are in the overhead console. The only things I changed in the dash are as follows (scatteredthroughout the build thread):

- Upgraded to a stock 6 disk player

-Wire my lightforces to a stock FJ aux light switch

- Upgrade 06 center lower console to the '10+ that has the 3 lower switches (to plug my comms into)

- Add flush mount speakers for comms to the center console.

All of these are pretty much unnoticeable and can be found throughout the thread.

I am about to revamp the switch layout and put them in my center console. I will post up once this happens (eventually, if i ever have time haha)

 

Your build is nothing less than spectacular and I've only broke halfway through all the cool mods! Subd for future!

 

ahh yeah that's right. I was confusing your interior to McGrimm's
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...g-find-best-valued-ham-radio.html#post3469386

I look forward to your updates

 

as always, a great build! always looking forward to updates so I can get some ideas!

 

Is there a problem with the switches mounted overhead? I've been considering mounting mine there and would like any input you can offer.

 

No not at all, I just decided I wanted my sunglass holder spot to work haha. Other than that they work great up there.

 

Dude, I am in love with your truck!! I wish I had thought about putting my silinoid where you did. Looks great!

 

In anticipation for my flippac, since I have some time waiting for her, I figured I would get ahead of the game and setup the wiring under the hood to support a “house” fuse block for inside the pac. This will allow me to wire house accessories without having to run wires all the way to my under-hood faux fuse block.

As with the rest of my wiring, I made the obvious choice and went with a blue sea fuse block (Same as under-hood). This is then protected with a blue sea 100A breaker (again, same as under hood aux block). The only real challenge to this was the fact that my current bracket I had fabbed (I think I am on version 2.1 or something) did not have sufficient space to support another breaker, so, it was back to the drawing board for another bracket.

The bracket had to hold the following:

· 1 Blue Sea Fuse Block (12 live and ground)

· 1 80A Blue Sea Breaker (For air compressor)

· 2 100A Blue Sea Breakers (for under hood and house fuse blocks)

· 2 Relays (For aux lighting)

In addition, it had to mount using the same mounting holes as my previous version so that it would interface with my winch solenoid mount (Click Here for details on that).

So let the games begin


As before, I chose some 16 or 18 gage stainless, and using my original mount and some cardboard I mapped out how I could incorporate all the pieces I needed and fit in the existing space. After a bit of drawing, a bit of cutting with a band saw, a bit of fun on the mill, and some sand blasting I ended up with this:





Then time to bend it. I could have used the break, but if given the chance to beat on something with a large hammer, I usually take that option. So after bending the “Relay Mounting Surface” down we end up with this:





This is how everything fits (Relays not shown here):





Next up was a bit of rustolium (yes I know its stainless, but I like it being black) and then just plumb it all in. You can see the new 100A breaker for my “house” block on the end awaiting its wire run to the flippac (that will wait until I actually get the flippac).







P.S. Yes I know my engine is dirty, but she runs like a champ…she likes being dirty

 

Is that 2 Diehard Platinum's?

 

Very nice, can I ask the source of your feed cables and lugs? I assume you are cutting/crimping them yourself for those nice little custom runs.

 

Yes a group 25 and 35..see the following for details: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...06-taco-expo-build-thread-10.html#post5349026

The cable I am using is 3/0 gauge oval Stinger cable. it is SUPER flexible and will easily handle the current. I had previousy bought a bunch for the run from the front of the truck to the rear for my compressor.

The lugs are standard 2 gauge lugs (they do not make 3 gauge lugs. The can be had at any industrial store. Even Home Depot probably carries them. I usually get mine at west marine.

The sheilding is just standard expandable sheilding. I have a bunch that was leftover from a previous company I worked at, but frys will carry it as well.

Thats it. I just cut to the right size, crimp lugs, shrink tubing over the crimps, cover whole run with sheilding and shrink tube that with color coded marine grade tubing (Red and Black).

 

Where was this water crossing? I was up running Cleghorn today looking for this water crossing, but I couldn't find it.

 

I need a set up like this!

 

I honstly cannot remember. It is past Cleghorn on the way out to arrowhead on some trail, cannot remember which, sorry.

I LOVE the Blue Sea. it can handle WAY more current (500A) than the painless or national luna systems (circa 250A i think). When you are winching, currents that exceed the rating of those systems are not unheard of, so this is extra peice of mind. Its nice that this is basically an "install it and forget it" setup..Does everything automatically. I would not chose anything else.

 

I too am convinced it's one of the best products out there. The warranty is top notch. What's great about the ACR is the fact that it can sense voltage and combine in either direction. For my proposed application I want to have a solar panel with regulator charge the aux battery, and if the aux battery is full and enough amps are provided by the panel, the ACR should combine and allow charging the starting battery (top it off).

Also it appears that the ACR if bought retail comes with the switch with integrated LED's and what not. Is that true? Barlowrs, did you get a switch with yours ? If so did you ever hook yours up?

Side note: In order to obtain the 500A continuous rating you have to run two lengths of AWG 4/0. to each conductor. Crazy! I got my data from this table: http://bluesea.com/category/78/79/productline/388

 

That is correct, you get the switch as well. Its a nice switch too:



I am currently working on a custom switch pannel in the cab, so I have not wired it up yet, but I will soon.

I am running 3 gage wire from my batt to the ACR (it is a VERY short run)...I am not planning on hitting 500A though, but its nice to know that if something does happen and it does, the ACR will not be damaged.

 

OK I have been doing some light upgrades lately, and here are the results so far. I apologize for the pics, it is a camera phone, so they are horrible, and truly do not do the LED lights justice.

Reverse Lights:
Stock Reverse Lights only:



Alien Aero Pods: (For a single 10W LED in a 2” light, these things are INCREDIBLE! LOVE THEM! VERY high quality from the harness to the light):


http://www.trailduty.com/product_info.php?cPath=563_562&products_id=1562

Fog lights:
Went from PIAA 510 to Blitzpro 3LR Light Pod (These are VERY cheap ~40.00 per pod, however I am testing them out for a friend of mine, and to be honest, so far I am EXTREMELY happy with them. WELL worth the $80.00 for the set. Sure there are brighter LED pods out there, but for fogs, these are just about perfect to me and blow the PIAA 510 out of the water) Just Fogs On:


http://blitzpro.com/led-pod.html

Headlights:
Osram Rallye 70/65w H4 bulbs (From what I read, stock Tacoma wire harness is ok with the higher wattage. These are much brighter than stock) High Beams and Fogs On:


http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html

Spot Beams:
Lightforce 170 Strikers (Don’t need to say much here, I think everyone knows how amazing lightforeces are) 2 Lightforce 120, High Beams, and Fogs On:


http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=49

LED Light Bar:
50” Alien Light Bar Euro Beam (The picture does not do it justice, It does not reach out as far as the pencil beam 170s, but COMPLELTY overpowers my high beams and throws MUCH further…basically fills the void between headlights and spot beams. It is an AMAZING amount of light! Also note that the LED bar is just resting on my hood, not mounted or aimed) High Beams and LED Light Bar Only:


http://www.trailduty.com/product_info.php?cPath=563_561&products_id=1507

Notice it lights up the tree way out there past headlights on left...In person it throws MUCH more light than the pic shows

So in summary, the alien LED equipment is AMAZING quality, I recommend it to ANYONE! The blitzpro is MUCH cheaper, but VERY good bang for the buck. I actually have a few more blitzpro lights to try out once I get my flippac mounted, so I would not shy away from them at all.

 

Your rig shoots lasers!
I want those. Amazing but $1200? Damn that is a lot of dough.

 

Subd. Epic read