SManZ’s Build Thread!
Updated 10/14/10 – New badging!
Just added these;
Just an eBay TRD emblem and a Supercharged emblem from a Cobalt SS.
Removed Toyota from the left side and replaced with TRD emblem. Removed SR5 V6 from the right and replaced it with the Land Rover Supercharged emblem.
This thing was stupid expensive but its what I wanted...
The Taco and the ’06 Yamaha FZ1, both just washed and waxed!
-TRD Cold Air Intake
-MBRP Dual Split Rear Exhaust
-Toytec Ultimate Lift
-Front Coilovers w/ 600lb Eibach springs
-Light Racing Upper Control Arms
-Rear AAL (TSB)
-Carrier Bearing Drop
-Swaybar Relocate Kit
Exterior & Misc Mods:
-All-Pro Front Bumper w/ Light Hoop
-PIAA 510 SMR Fog Lights
-Cheapie Wal-Mart Bed Lights
-Toyota Tube Steps
-TRD Front/Rear Emblems, Land Rover Supercharged emblem
-GoRhino Rear Hitch Step/Bumper (piece of shit)
-Oil Cup Drain Hose
TRD FJ Cruiser Special Edition 16” Anthracite Rims
-Firestone Destination A/T, LT265/75R16
-Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
-EBC Sport Slotted/Dimpled Rotors
-Hawk HPS front brake pads
-PLX DM-100 OBD II Scanner
-TRD Boost Gauge w/ Red LEDs
-Autometer Oil Pressure & Oil Temperature Gauges
-Flexpod Steering Column Gauge Mount
-Custom A-Pillar Gauge MountFONT]
-Pro Sport Oil Filter Adapter for Pressure/Temp Sensors
-RCBS Illuminated 4x4 Switch
TRD S/C & CAI
The TRD S/C install took me 18hrs solo, including 3 meals, a short nap, and a trip to the autoparts store.
Here is a How-To that I wrote for the install;
MBRP Dual Split Rear Exhaust
The MBRP pipes are supposed to be bolt on but they do require cutting of one length of pipe. Other than that the install isn’t too bad. Put oil on the exhaust hanger studs to make removal and installation of the rubber grommets easier. The pipes sound great! At idle it has a nice burble that can easily be mistaken for a V8.
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit
The Ultimate kit has the pre-assembled coil overs so it’s all bolt-in. No spring compressor required. You can also see the Goodridge stainless steel front brake lines in this shot.
Light Racing upper control arms
Rear is an AAL. I have the TSB springs so I have a 5-leaf pack now.
The kit comes with longer u-bolts and new Bilstein 5100 shocks.
The axle shims rotate the axle so that the angle of the driveshaft to the diff is closer to stock.
The carrier bearing drop is easy to install, just 2 bolts. It lowers the driveshaft a bit to straighten it out, closer to stock.
The diff drop is also easy to install. I didn’t need to trim my skidplate, which ended up coming off anyway for the All-Pro bumper.
All-Pro Front Bumper
Lots of clearance now! It also really shows off the suspension components.
Everything is bolt-together. Its best to get all the bolts started before tightening down any of them.
I cut too much off the inner fender so it comes loose and flops around. I’m using tie wire to hold it in place for now but I’ll think of something a little less backwoods.
PIAA 510 SMR fog lights. I spliced these into the stock wiring.
Battle scars from the install. Many thanks to joneill03 who helped with the install!
Satoshi Grill Mod
The most hilarious thing about the whole grill mod is that my name is actually Satoshi. No, I’m not the one that came up with this.
I used bondo to tack down twelve 3" long #10x32 bolts and wingnuts to secure the mesh in place. The wingnuts let me tighten the mesh perfectly against the gentle curves at the rear of the grill.
Bed Lights & Decals
I used w8n4mud’s L-brackets. The bed lights are cheapie Wal-Mart fogs. I ran wiring along the driver’s side frame rail and up into the cab through the grommet under the driver’s seat. I put the switch where the factory VSC button is and moved the VSC button to the top row. Moving the VSC button is a lot harder than it sounds. There is a plastic divider between the top and bottom rows and getting the wiring for the switch to reach over that divider is a bitch.
Oil Cup Drain Hose
I ran a section of 3/8” fuel line from the nipple on the bottom of the oil filter cup towards the bottom of the truck. At the end I put in a vacuum connector and a cap. This lets me unscrew the filter and then drain the cup through the tube and into my oil pan without making a mess.
TRD FJ Rims and Tires
Tires are Firestone Destination A/T 265/75R16s.
This shot shows the rims with spacers and the EBC Sport slotted/dimpled rotors.
Stock wheel offset, 5.5”
TRD FJ rims have a 4.5” offset. Notice how they stick a little further out. This was before I installed the wheel spacers.
There’s plenty of clearance from the spindle with the reduced offset. After the lift the stock tires were very close to the spindle.
Brake Lines, Rotors, Spacers & Pads
The Goodridge stainless steel brake lines are the best brake mod I’ve made. It gets rid of that soft pedal feel.
The rear lines rub against the MBRP pipes. I installed some heat tape at first. Then I installed fiberglass pipe insulation around the exhaust pipes (not shown).
EBC Sport slotted/dimpled rotors, Hawk HPS brake pads, and Spidertrax 1.25” wheel spacers on the front. I didn’t install the rear ones.
Interior Mods, Gauges
Finished gauge setup! Autometer oil pressure and temperature on the A-pillar pods, and PLX DM-100 OBD II scanner and TRD boost gauge on the flexpod steering column pods.
Autometer ES full-sweep electric oil pressure and temperature gauges.
PLX DM-100 OBD II scanner and TRD boost gauge. The DM-100 is set up to display engine load, engine speed, air intake temperature, and coolant temperature. Once I install the SM-AFR add-on, I’ll replace engine speed with AFR.
The Autometer ES gauges look orange in this photo but they are actually a deep red.
The PLX DM-100 text is orange. I replaced the white filament bulbs in the TRD boost gauge with red LEDs from VLEDs.com so that it would match the Autometer gauges. It came out perfectly!
The module for the DM-100 is in the glove box. I ran all wiring behind the radio and center console.
Power for the Autometer electric gauges comes from an Add-A-Circuit tapped into the 15A ignition circuit. The gauge lighting comes from the two green/green-white wires that are tapped into for the RCBS illuminated 4x4 gauge.
Pro-Sport oil filter adapter plate. This lets me screw in the sensors for the Autometer gauges. The larger one on top is the oil pressure. The lower sensor is oil temperature. The wiring for both goes through the large grommet in the firewall next to the brake booster.
Even with an oversized filter, it will still clear the engine cover. I don’t have the cover anymore since I’m boosted.
The wiring for the oil temp and pressure sensors goes through the large grommet in the firewall next to the brake booster. The clear tubing is for the boost gauge. It has since been connected to the pressure port in the supercharger housing so the boost gauge works.
I purchased a new 2010 4x4 Sport 6-spd w/ Tow Pkg in Magnetic Grey on December 24, 2009. This is my second Tacoma, the first was an '09. For the full story about that whole mess, click the link in my sig about the hurricane damaged '09 PreRunner. In short, fuck Koons Tysons Toyota in Vienna, VA
Thanks For Looking & Thanks to all at TW for the How-To's and help that made it possible for me to do all of this myself!