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Old 10-16-2010, 07:00 PM   #41
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Nice truck man, how did you do those switches.
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:39 PM   #42
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Ordered them from mudstuff.co.uk(or something similar) along with a sticker sheet to mark the displays. they were 11$ each after shipping from the UK.

Removed all the stock plugs and dremeled the housings down a bit to allow the new switches to fit. Then popped them in place

Wired up two sets (+ and -) of six leads with female blade connectors to power up the illumination.

That's more or less how you do it.
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:36 PM   #43
I think I'm getting the Fear.
MY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shedMY50cal is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Nice build man! Too bad we didn't have a bit more time to check out our mods. Maybe at a meet, some day.


waiting for some new pics
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:30 AM   #45
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Thanks! Yeah they aren't at hardware stores anymore, at least not around here either anyway. I got mine from a quick google search for "3D Maglight mounting clips". There are a few different styles, but I think the ones I have are the cleanest mounting system.

Need to take some more recent photos, but I have added an Avid light bar to the front, and I just got in the TRD Off-Road OEM Tranny and T-case skid plates. I'll probably pull the IFS one and paint them all with bed liner before installing. While I am down there I also plan on putting in bigger rock lights. Pics to come.
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:03 PM   #46
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Finally got around to ordering HIDs for the low beams and the Hellas
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:35 PM   #47
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Old 03-31-2011, 01:22 PM   #48
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Since I keep getting asked here is a write-up on the fighter piolet lighting.

First of all if you ever wanted to light up your center console and/or glove box this is your chance, just adapt my directions as needed.


You need:
20 prewired wide angle 12v LEDs off ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/20-x-LED-5mm-PRE-WIRED-12-VOLT-WIDE-VIEW-ANGLE-Blue-12V-/150583555094?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230f7a b416

Then in the two weeks until they come go to radioshack and buy:
Double stranded wire (its white and black small guage stuff)
Wire strippers
Soldering iron/ solder
Flush mounts for LEDs

You will also need:
Electrical tape
Lots of zip-ties
snips
Power Drill
Drill bit set
Super glue

And if you haven't done it before spend some time in front of the TV learning to solder via Youtube videos.

Directions:

Once the damn things finally show up start by taking them all out and testing for duds on your car battery.

strip and prop up the leds so you can spread all the wires apart like a broom. Tin all the wires.

Cut, strip and label with masking tape and a marker your leads to the provided lengths and attach the corresponding number of LEDs. Twist the leads on the non LED end together so that routing the wire is easier.

LEDs must have current running the right way through them to work. Be sure to make all your leads correctly to avoid confusion.

Drivers side:
Dash 2 feet (2 LEDs)
Under the seat 6ft (2) then 1ft(2) -

Cup holders: This is different depending on whether you are auto or stick. Figure it out how many LEDs you need, and the right spacing give yourself 4 feet of tail to route under the dash from the shifter.

Passenger's side
Dash: 6 ft (2) - give yourself a set of leads to attach the foot light in too.
Under the seat- 6 ft (2)



Where to take power?

Straight from the battery through the fire wall to a switch on the dash
Tapping the corner running lights in the engine compartment fuse box with an add-a-fuse
Tapping the dash lights in the coin-slot fuse box. This can be done for when you turn the running lights and headlights on, or just the headlights.
You can also find the signal wire for the open door and rig a relay to turn the lights on when you enter. Personally I think that the map with dome light mod does a better job of this for less effort.

I use a single power switch on the dash from taking power from the battery.

Watch what you are doing with the end of your wire, tapping it on a ground might cause you to blow a fuse.


Where do I ground?
Grounds are plentiful on the drivers side, just back out a bolt that goes to the frame a few turns, wrap a single wire around it and retighten the bolt. Test you circut using an LED.

Make sure that the ground and power can more or less reach eachother at a good spot to establish common connections.

Now ziptie your footwell LEDs in place as firmly as possible into place. Where you put them isn't a huge deal as long as they aren't obstructed/ obstructing and are pointed in roughly the right direction.

Remove your cup holders- they just pop right out. Read the directions on the flush mounts for how to install them. Make sure that the LEDs are not pointing in such a way that they will be pointed at the driver or passenger, they will blind you at night if you look directly at them.

Pop the LEDs into the holders and super glue them in.

Route all your wires to the central point you picked to make your common connections.
-There is ample space behind the dash to do this.
-Follow the wires under the seats to get under the dash. This means pulling up the kick plates just inside the door sill. Start at the center of the seat where the two halves meet and pull the upper (front) piece straight up to pop the clips. Work your way forward with small tugs to free the trim piece. Route the wires along the bundle already there and then reinstal the kick plate.
-Add zip ties along the way to keep the wires in place and protect them from being pulled or causing issues.
-Remember to splice the passenger side underseat lights into the dash and cover each end in tape. (+ to +, - to -)

Trim excess if you have it once at the common connection site.

Relabel all the leads at the connection end. If something ever goes wrong this will save you a ton of time.

Zip tie all the + and - ends in bundles

Attach the power and ground to the corresponding bundles and tape them. More zip ties.

Go drink a beer
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:59 PM   #49
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Good looking truck. And a paddler too right on. BC is full of good creeking and playboating.
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:38 PM   #50
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Thank you! Tell me about it I can not wait to get out there! Hopefully that will happen in the coming year.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:00 PM   #51
Because Tacos are too mainstream...and Im poor.
TheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shedTheMrGExperience is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flightcancled View Post
Since I keep getting asked here is a write-up on the fighter piolet lighting.

First of all if you ever wanted to light up your center console and/or glove box this is your chance, just adapt my directions as needed.


You need:
20 prewired wide angle 12v LEDs off ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/20-x-LED-5mm-PRE-WIRED-12-VOLT-WIDE-VIEW-ANGLE-Blue-12V-/150583555094?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230f7a b416

Then in the two weeks until they come go to radioshack and buy:
Double stranded wire (its white and black small guage stuff)
Wire strippers
Soldering iron/ solder
Flush mounts for LEDs

You will also need:
Electrical tape
Lots of zip-ties
snips
Power Drill
Drill bit set
Super glue

And if you haven't done it before spend some time in front of the TV learning to solder via Youtube videos.

Directions:

Once the damn things finally show up start by taking them all out and testing for duds on your car battery.

strip and prop up the leds so you can spread all the wires apart like a broom. Tin all the wires.

Cut, strip and label with masking tape and a marker your leads to the provided lengths and attach the corresponding number of LEDs. Twist the leads on the non LED end together so that routing the wire is easier.

LEDs must have current running the right way through them to work. Be sure to make all your leads correctly to avoid confusion.

Drivers side:
Dash 2 feet (2 LEDs)
Under the seat 6ft (2) then 1ft(2) -

Cup holders: This is different depending on whether you are auto or stick. Figure it out how many LEDs you need, and the right spacing give yourself 4 feet of tail to route under the dash from the shifter.

Passenger's side
Dash: 6 ft (2) - give yourself a set of leads to attach the foot light in too.
Under the seat- 6 ft (2)



Where to take power?

Straight from the battery through the fire wall to a switch on the dash
Tapping the corner running lights in the engine compartment fuse box with an add-a-fuse
Tapping the dash lights in the coin-slot fuse box. This can be done for when you turn the running lights and headlights on, or just the headlights.
You can also find the signal wire for the open door and rig a relay to turn the lights on when you enter. Personally I think that the map with dome light mod does a better job of this for less effort.

I use a single power switch on the dash from taking power from the battery.

Watch what you are doing with the end of your wire, tapping it on a ground might cause you to blow a fuse.


Where do I ground?
Grounds are plentiful on the drivers side, just back out a bolt that goes to the frame a few turns, wrap a single wire around it and retighten the bolt. Test you circut using an LED.

Make sure that the ground and power can more or less reach eachother at a good spot to establish common connections.

Now ziptie your footwell LEDs in place as firmly as possible into place. Where you put them isn't a huge deal as long as they aren't obstructed/ obstructing and are pointed in roughly the right direction.

Remove your cup holders- they just pop right out. Read the directions on the flush mounts for how to install them. Make sure that the LEDs are not pointing in such a way that they will be pointed at the driver or passenger, they will blind you at night if you look directly at them.

Pop the LEDs into the holders and super glue them in.

Route all your wires to the central point you picked to make your common connections.
-There is ample space behind the dash to do this.
-Follow the wires under the seats to get under the dash. This means pulling up the kick plates just inside the door sill. Start at the center of the seat where the two halves meet and pull the upper (front) piece straight up to pop the clips. Work your way forward with small tugs to free the trim piece. Route the wires along the bundle already there and then reinstal the kick plate.
-Add zip ties along the way to keep the wires in place and protect them from being pulled or causing issues.
-Remember to splice the passenger side underseat lights into the dash and cover each end in tape. (+ to +, - to -)

Trim excess if you have it once at the common connection site.

Relabel all the leads at the connection end. If something ever goes wrong this will save you a ton of time.

Zip tie all the + and - ends in bundles

Attach the power and ground to the corresponding bundles and tape them. More zip ties.

Go drink a beer
I completely avoided the truck's electronics and hooked all my LEDs to 2 9volt battery assemblies and wired each light set individually to different dash switches (floor gets its own, cup holders its own, ect) and used flexible LED strips that can be cut to size and also have an adhesive on the back on the strips to make zip ties unnecessary. MUCH easier IMO and if the lights for some reason ever start failing in anyway I can just rip out the whole assembly in less then 5 minutes and do it over again

They sold everything I needed (except the battery pack which i had laying around the house) at Autozone and came out to a grand total of $23.63.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:21 PM   #52
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Yup that is certainly an option. Not sure I would go with all the switches, although it would make those batteries last longer. You could just run them all off one of those big box batteries with the curly terminals. That would last for a while.
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:30 AM   #53
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Billy 1550s installed in the rear, and shackle flip installed. Bumpstops are out for the moment.

Also had to replace a bearing, calipers, drums, and pads..... shit!

New tires will be on this month as well. Looking like General Grabbers AT2
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:01 PM   #54
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Loving the black billet grill with the lights.

What grill is that? lights? and how did you mount them? if you dont mind me asking?
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:53 AM   #55
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flightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shedflightcancled is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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I can't tell you who made the grill because I bought it used, but the lights are Hella 500s with HIDs. If I had to do it again I would go bigger though! After originally just drilling holes into the bottom of the grill and having issues I now use the standard satoshi style grill mount technique.
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