I decided to do this build thread, to share with every one here, all of the good, bad, and ugly I have been through. Learned more than ever though I would over the years, about this truck, and cars in general.
This build has humble me, excited me, made me friends, and even a girlfriend. It has also caused A LOT of stress and heart ache.
This is my NEVR give in and NEVR give up build.
'06 4.0. Ordered it and there wasn't one in the outlining states or Texas. Had to have it special ordered. Nothing special. Just a 6-speed 4x4, SR5, but everything else was basic. Didn't feel like paying for things when I was already going to be modding it just as soon as I could.
No pictures of it base, but here it is 2-3 months after I got it.
At the time, I was the first person in the city of Houston, with the ProComp 6" Coilover lift kit.
Looks good. What part of Houston you from?
Wheres teh turbo? :anon:
First 2 years of its life, was nearly every weekend at Spring Creek. Doing some form or another of off roading. If I can ever recover the files I have on my other crashed computer, I will have even more to share.
Basically, I came to a fork in the road. DynaTrac SAS, or Rear Mount turbo. That is pretty much where this build, and the learning began.
So one day, I decided to do the rear mount setup from STS. It had just come out for the '05+ Tacoma, and I was going to be #5 to have it.
This is the turbo that came with the STS kit.
Took a lot of work to get that kit installed. The instructions were lacking certain necessary specifics, and there were some hoses that were too short.
Here is one issue we cam across that wasn't mentioned in the instructions.
This bolt wouldn't go through their "cat-back" pipe.
Not to worry. Grinder solved it....
Then we found that the spring was too long now...
So again, we fixed it....
Near Katy area.
This is the oil pressure warning alarm, and Hi/Low oil return switch.
Since you have to have a pump to push the oil back to the motor from the turbo, if the return oil pressure got over 3 psi, it would sound the alarm. VERY loud.
If the alarm went off, then that meant that there would also be a large cloud of smoke behind you. Lol.
Here you can see the oil feed line, next to the filter, as well as remnants of life off road.
And how it first looked before I put the piece of crap "snorkle" they sent, on.
They didn't even send some form of dump tube for the wastegate. Shame..
Installed the Walbro 255LPH that came with the kit. Apparently though, the enllightened people at STS felt that it wasn't necessary to add a filter back into the fuel system, minus the sock that comes with the pump. Brilliant... :/
Unlike URD that sends a filter to be placed in line as well.
Here is there addition to the PCV system.
Got it all installed including the Boost Gauge. Mind you at this point, I knew nothing about any form what soever, of tuning. Not even what an AFR gauge was.
With it all together, and UniChip installed, it was time for a test drive.....It wasn't good. :mad:
If anybody is wondering, this is a radiator hose by KillerGlass.
Some strong stuff to say the least.
Here is the link:
So, the Unichip wasn't working. I could drive, but as soon as I started to see the truck would buck violently, and the Check Engine Light would flash. Multiple misfire codes! STS swore that the UniChip was pre-programmed with the proper MAP, but might need a little fine tuning.
Other then that they said that there was nothing more that they could do. That pissed me off! So now I have a truck with a turbo kit on it, and I cannot accelerate to fast, or I might get a misfire.....WTF?
I called and spoke with Gadget at URD. After a fun and enlightening conversation with him, I ended up purchasing the MAP-Ecu2. He even wired in the extension harness for me.
From then, the only shop around that had experience with the Map-Ecu2 was a shop NorthWest of Fort Worth. Power House Racing.
I also learned that I needed larger injectors because the factory ones that are, I think 330 ccm, would not be near sufficient for the 5-6 psi that the kit was supposed to do.
I did a little research, and got in contact with a company called RC Engineering. With their information, I settled on a set of 550 ccm High Impedence injectors.
I also learned at that point, that a 330 ccm can handle approx. 300 crank hp; 440 - 400 crank hp, 550 - 500 crank hp, etc...On a 4.0 litre motor. At static fuel pressure of 43.5 PSI. Very important!
Early Saturday morning at Power House. That was a very cool day, to say the least!
At the tip of the injectors, you can see how it is not a smooth tip. It has a machined out section, as if an O-ring goes there. Well with the way ours are setup to work, the tips of the OEM injectors are smooth. They fit tight and secure in what is called an insulator. Basically a thick rubber washer.
Well being that these RC Injectors have a machined out portion, a major problem ended up presenting itself. I was having a vacuum leak around each injector, where they rest in the lower intake plenum. Being still new to the game at that point, it took me a while to figure that out. Needless to say, heat shrink was my temporary fix to see if it would help fix the leak or not. It did, then I ended up using JB Weld to fill it in and make them nice and smooth.
This thread wins.
Did some pre tuning and test driving. Then strapped it on the dyno.
Some of the other cars there....
As a side note, this was also still the time the URD was selling the MKI S/C kits, in full force. Helps kind of with a timeline of sorts.
And some dyno vidoes!
As best I can find from some of my older posts, it made 303whp and 381 in a 3rd gear pull. Not to shabby for 8 psi. Definitely not good enough though....
That dyno was done with the Doug Thorley Long Tube headers (Gen 1), and the OEM y-pipe.
In my thirst for more power and increased efficiency, I ordered the URD 4x4 Y-Pipe. Then went for a second dyno.
No video of that unfortunately. But the numbers were 322whp, and 422wtq. Same PSI of boost as before. But, it was done in 4th gear this that time.
Post from shortly after it was done.
One problem that plagued me with the rear mount kit was gasket leaks. I could not stop them....Until I found out about V-Band flanges. Before that though, I had a set of Copper Crush gaskets made. In the hopes that they would seal better, and not blow out like the factory crush gaskets between the header to y-pipe.
The leaking gaskets, drove me near crazy!
Found a few more pics of the STS install.
TiAL F38 Wastegate with 5 PSI spring inside.
The notoriously bad UniChip.....:mad:
I any body has the ProComp 6" lift, you might run into this issue that I had when I installed the URD Y-pipe. Due to the drop down bracket, the y-pipe no longer had room to clear the front drive shaft. So I had to remove the drive shaft.
Well wanting to be able to drive in 4x4, I found an exhaust shop. By no means were they good. This was the end result, of adding in an extension, so I could put the driveshaft back on. Yuck....
Here are some before muffler and after muffler videos.
In Cab Before:
After with Magnaflow:
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