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FEELER: 2 inch thick 2.7 intake manifold spacer

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Old 09-04-2013, 10:01 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacowagon View Post
Please add me to the list. Mainly city driving and some hwy to the beach and on it. I'm always down shifting to get up to speed.
The spacer won't magically cure an overall lack of power because it doesn't make the engine more powerful... just more powerful at lower rpms. So in normal driving with it will feel stronger. It will help you especially from a standing start on sand. I think in conditions like this is where it really shines the most.

I have a steep driveway that's about 90 feet long. I measured it with an inclinometer and most of it is a 10 percent grade. Every morning I drive up it with a cold engine to leave the house. I've been experimenting trying to see how slow I can crawl up the driveway and found that even down to 500 rpm it still climbs the grade and doesn't stall. At that rpm it sounds like a tractor even with the stock muffler because it's turning so slow!

Driving in Los Angeles there's always plenty of stop and go traffic, and with a stick that means lots of clutching in first gear, so the low end torque also makes it a lot easier to get the truck moving from a stop to a crawl. On level roads in traffic I can just slip the clutch with no throttle at all and it moves smoothly with no bucking.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:12 PM   #62
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Spacer

Please add my name to the list.

Tks,
ks
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:19 PM   #63
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Please add me to the list. It may be 2nd run before actually purchasing but definitely interested in one of these.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:26 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T@co_Pr3runn3r View Post
Please add me to the list. It may be 2nd run before actually purchasing but definitely interested in one of these.
No problem, there's plenty of time. The first run hasn't even started yet. As I get the finished ones, I'll offer them for sale so it'll take a while to catch up. But sooner or later things will slow down and I'll always be able to keep a few in stock and ready to ship. Now that I know from driving that it's a practical useful product, I plan to keep these always available for a long time to anyone who wants one.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:16 PM   #65
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I would buy one.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:42 PM   #66
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Ok. Your name is also on the list.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:34 AM   #67
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I was hoping they'd be cheaper, but I get it. I'm interested, tho it's hard to peel money from my wallet so no clue if I'll actually pull the trigger.

Basic transportation/parts getter.

Any idea how well will that material takes to being drilled & tapped for fogger nozzles?~I see another, even if small, market for you.
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Old 09-05-2013, 11:13 AM   #68
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Hey tooter, I don't know if you said this in this thread or not yet but everyone needs to keep in mind that those dyno numbers are NOT based on a completely stock motor with only this piece added. He has a CAI and a header as well. The actual numbers could be very minimal, if not seen at all, without these other upgrades. This could very well be something that has absolutely no effect on a stock motor. Or it could yield the same numbers. No one will really know until it is tested on a bone stock motor. I would feel perfectly comfortable buying this product and running it because I also have a CAI and a LCE header but on the flip side I would be sceptical of purchasing this for a stock motor because there is no data to go off of.
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Old 09-05-2013, 11:20 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleCabGuy View Post
I will be testing it with my all stock motor but won't be on the dyno. I'm gonna goto the track (1/4 mile) and test it with stock intake and then gonna swap out the stock intake for my K&N after a few good passes.
I def like that idea. But to compare dyno results to track results isn't gonna work. Way to many human and environmental variables on a track where as a dyno should read very consistent and precise measurements.
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:17 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotorrex View Post
Hey tooter, I don't know if you said this in this thread or not yet but everyone needs to keep in mind that those dyno numbers are NOT based on a completely stock motor with only this piece added. He has a CAI and a header as well.
Yes. You raised an excellent point.

You will not get the same absolute numbers that I have...

...however, you will experience the difference between those two dyno runs, because the only change between them was just the spacer alone.

And I don't have a CAI...
I am the only one here who runs the dreaded and feared power robbing "warm air intake" that draws air from inside the engine compartment. (gasp! ) Which, according to the overwhelming consensus of opinion here, creates a loss of power and not a gain.

In contrast to the majority, I hold the opinion that the gains of cold air intakes are highly overrated and feel that my Injen intake is good for at least a few ponies.

Now, I do have an LCE header, and it accounted for dropping the torque peak from 3,800 rpm down to 3,150 rpm. I know this because the Toyota factory dynoed their bone stock 2.7 and got a peak of 3,800 rpm, and I dynoed my 2.7 with the header and got a peak of 3,150 rpm.

Quote:
The actual numbers could be very minimal, if not seen at all, without these other upgrades. This could very well be something that has absolutely no effect on a stock motor.
Lengthening the intake manifold runners on any engine, stock or not, will definitely drop the torque curve lower in the rpm range, because that effect is based upon fixed physical laws.

So whatever your stock engine's peak torque was before won't increase... because on my engine, with an intake and header, the torque peak didn't increase either. It's worth repeating that my torque peak was only moved lower in the rpm range, and it was also fattened up a bit, but the absolute peak did not increase.


Quote:
Or it could yield the same numbers. No one will really know until it is tested on a bone stock motor. I would feel perfectly comfortable buying this product and running it because I also have a CAI and a LCE header but on the flip side I would be sceptical of purchasing this for a stock motor because there is no data to go off of.
I'm glad you raised this issue. Everyone needs to look closely at that comparative before and after dyno chart.

The peak torque is not increased... just moved down lower in the rpm range.
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:30 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleCabGuy View Post
I agree completely but the results will be good for me because the weather temp and humidity is the same around here for the next few months.
So if it shaves a couple ten-thousandths off my time then il be happy with it.
You do have the advantage of having made enough drag runs to form a real world performance profile for your 2.7, and if you run some more with the spacer, that will also form a performance profile. Then you can compare the two profiles and determine if there is any difference between them positive or negative.

I'll make a prediction from driving with the spacer installed:

You'll get a quicker hole shot.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:45 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotorrex View Post
Yeah man I hope you don't think I'm trying to put this down or anything. I love the fact that it lowers the torque curve. Just want everyone to understand exactly what's goin on here and sometimes having someone, besides the person selling the product, point things out it helps.
I appreciate your input as an impartial party...
You're helping to make everything as clear as possible before anyone even decides whether or not they want to buy one.

The goal is for everyone's expectations to be as close to reality as possible.
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:44 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonziGT230 View Post
I was hoping they'd be cheaper, but I get it.
I totally understand your situation, Donzi... and don't mind letting you know all of my costs and how I arrived at $225.

edit:Sorry, because of the increased cost of the nylon blocks and extra tooling and jig costs, the spacers will be offered for $245.

CNC machining and nylon block: $140
Toyota #17177-75040 OEM O ring gasket: $24
Mounting hardware threaded studs and bolts: $8
USPS Priority Mail shipping: $13
nylon specific machine tool: $50

This brings my total cost per unit to $200.
A 22.5% markup puts it at the $245 selling price.
So I make a profit of $45 on each unit sold.



Note that this doesn't include the $500 in R&D costs of designing, raw material and CNC tool costs, the labor to machine the prototype, and two dyno testing sessions. At $45 per unit profit, if I sell 12 units I'll be happy just to break even. So you see that this is not a money making venture... it's just a creative fun hobby and I'll be satisfied if it can just pay for itself.

I have a day job that makes money.
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Old 09-06-2013, 03:09 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Sun Lover View Post
Hmm,
What about changing the ring & pinion?

I went from the JUNK 215/70-15's 26.9" tall tires with OEM boat anchor 15x6.5" wheels, to 245/55-18's 28.5" tall tires with OEM X-runner 18x8 wheels. You guys who go to a 30" plus tires should really look into buying a rear gear. If I can buy a 3.90 Toyota I'm selling the 4.10 complete.

The OEM 2.7L w/ a 5 speed manual has 3.31 rear gear, I went to a 4.10 rear gear. I can now move from a stop with OUT slipping the clutch. Plus I get better gas milage too! I wanted 3.90 rear gear. But I couldn't find out if the FJ with a manual trans came without an E-locker rear gear. No one from Toyota would tell me and so few FJ's with manual transmission are sold.

AZ
the oem 2.7L w/ a 5 speed manual 5 LUG has 3.31 rear gear
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:10 PM   #77
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I am interested in buying one.

I use my 2004 extra cab as a daily driver, towing utility trailer (2 motorcycle size), 4X4in

Brian
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:38 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Sun Lover View Post
Hmm,
What about changing the ring & pinion?

I went from the JUNK 215/70-15's 26.9" tall tires with OEM boat anchor 15x6.5" wheels, to 245/55-18's 28.5" tall tires with OEM X-runner 18x8 wheels. You guys who go to a 30" plus tires should really look into buying a rear gear. If I can buy a 3.90 Toyota I'm selling the 4.10 complete.

The OEM 2.7L w/ a 5 speed manual has 3.31 rear gear, I went to a 4.10 rear gear. I can now move from a stop with OUT slipping the clutch. Plus I get better gas milage too! I wanted 3.90 rear gear. But I couldn't find out if the FJ with a manual trans came without an E-locker rear gear. No one from Toyota would tell me and so few FJ's with manual transmission are sold.

AZ
How much did parts and labor cost to change your gears? That's how you weigh the cost to benefit ratio. And I really like my tall 3:31 street geared truck because at 60 mph, the engine is only turning 2,000rpm and gets 29mpg on the freeway. This way I have low end and high end.
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:39 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004TacomaNavy View Post
I am interested in buying one.

I use my 2004 extra cab as a daily driver, towing utility trailer (2 motorcycle size), 4X4in

Brian
Ok, Brian.
I'll update the list now.

Greg

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3. camojared
4. cmanhonor
5. Kavic
6. nettto
7. EquinsuOcha
8. Millertime187
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:58 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotorrex View Post
the oem 2.7L w/ a 5 speed manual 5 LUG has 3.31 rear gear
And the 5 speed 2.7 4x4 has 4.10's stock...pretty sure anyways
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