Remote Filter Mod -- No Leaks!

I finally got around to installing this AMSOIL dual remote/bypass oil filter kit on my 2010, 4-cylinder Tojo. The cancer drugs worked and with less of that stuff in my system, I had the energy today.

The image sequence tells most of the story. A critical item not included in the kit is the group of four, AN4-33A bolts and AN465 nuts shown on the bench. The late-model Tojo has a sheet-metal crush box welded onto the front of the forged steel frame, one of those Federal things. The AN4-33As, and their Class 10 strength, are required to reach through the box to mount the bracketry. The extended reach drill is another, critical, item required for this job.

Most folks will wonder what the dish detergent is for. When assembling the oil lines, it's very useful to smear this, mostly lanolin, stuff over the male "cone", easing the task of wrenching the female half of the fitting, with the hose, over the cone.

Routing the oil lines would have been easier with additional, 90 degree, "elbow" fittings. I may purchase these in the future to experiment with reducing the contortions of the lines as shown.

I coated the bolt heads/body washers and anodized brackets with undercoat goo after these images were made.

The engine now holds more than two gallons of oil. The bypass filter has 2-micron media. It returns analytically clean oil to the system. It will hold combustion water during my short, 5-mile commutes, releasing the water to the oil/crankcase/PCV valve when I make longer runs.

I can now run one year or 36,000 miles on a crankcase fill and filter change. The filter mount assembly can be fitted with a drain petcock for oil sampling/analysis but I'll not push things past the one year service interval I'm used to.

 

Interested in this but still kinda lost. Can this be done with a V6?

 

Seems like a good spot to get nailed by a rock. What is the ultimate purpose here? You still do oil changes at the regular interval right? I think I would unbolt it and flip it 180*.

 

Whippersnapper, thank you for the positive thoughts.

After more than thirty years of driving these buckets (FJ-40s, HJ-65s, RJ-70s, 4-Runners and Tacomas), I know that the location is very well protected from rocks 'n' such. Inverting the cans would make for a hideously sloppy oil service task and residual oil would never drain from the mounting assembly. The filters receive a decent bit of cooling air in this configuration.

I DO NOT DO OIL DRAINS/FILTER CHANGES AT WHAT MOST PEOPLE CONSIDER "NORMAL" INTERVALS! My "normal" interval is one year or 36,000 miles. I typically change my engine lubricant at the one year point. I've been doing this since 1978. My engines always outlive the bodies of their vehicles. The engines are stupendously clean when I choose to remove a valve cover or oil pan for some purpose.

One of the advantages of using a complete AMSOIL lubrication SYSTEM is that I don't have to fool with this stuff but one day each year. With oil sampling and analysis, I could run on a particular crankcase fill for an indefinite period of time, much like large, commercial trucks do.

These filters, in this location are also MUCH easier to access than the original filter.

I'm not familiar with V-6 configurations. If space is tight at this location with a V-6, AMSOIL offers a single-remote that you might use. A single EaO-15 filter still permits one-year/36,000 drain intervals.

The kit I purchased (BMK-23) has at least ten more feet of oil hose that I did not use. Locations at mid-frame might be possible. Apologies, but I just haven't looked at a V-6 lately.

 

The only thing that makes me nervous about that installation is the proximity of the anti-sway bar to the filter. Are you sure that, with the suspension at full compression in the front, the anti-sway bar won't rotate enough to hit the bypass filter?

Looking at picture #6, I can't tell whether the bent part of the sway bar starts after it gets further inboard than the oil filter or not.

 

The "AN" hardware mentioned in the OP is available from aircraft supply houses like Aircraft Spruce & Specialty.

Installing kits like this is not a big deal for me but I've been working on cars since 1969 and aircraft in a serious way since '96. Experience doing remote filter installs on aircraft is a big plus. Most guys new to this plumbing (Like I once was!) forget to tighten at least one fitting (Like I did!) the first time you do a project like this. Have some extra oil on hand for "aw s**t!" purposes.

I buy my oil by the gallon.

 

Awesome install! I researched a remote filter kit for my truck about 3 mos. ago, and the Amsoil kit had the highest number of positive reviews (by a long shot).

Also, stay strong...I have a buddy on chemo right now; I wish you the very best man.

 

JDK, sway bar rotation won't affect the bypass filter in this location. That's one reason I positioned the filters on the INBOARD side of the frame box. The sway bar is clamped/bushed to a crossmember inboard. The bar rotates but will not move aft to touch the filter.

I reviewed the images after I initially replied. I can see how you might have been concerned due to the perspective of the image. The central, twisted bit of the sway bay is well clear of the bypass filter!

 

bkeith747, thank you for your concern. I am "in remission" for six months now. My doc is weaning me from Cytoxan and the stuff that goes with it. I had reached the point that the chemicals were making me feel worse than the kidney failure. Things are very good now. What's left of the kidneys works well enough. I've been on "bonus time" (a separate story) since 1980 but each sunrise is welcome.

 

Glad to hear Def, keep up the fight brother!

 

Nice job on the bypass filter. I've always wanted to have a setup like that just wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make. I already run Amsoil 5w-30 and used to use the Ea filters until they quit making them for Toyotas b/c of sludge. Anyways, just wasn't sure if they were worth it.

Good to hear you're in remission, keep fighting it.

 

nice write up! I was looking into something like that. i know they do that for harleys...I am going to look into getting one.

 

afd23a: I'd been using the OEM-sized, EaO-57 filter prior to this, as are my kids with their three, 4-cyl Tacomas. We changed those out at 4,500-mile intervals. The whole sludge issue surprised me. AMSOIL lubricants, with their wonderful, high-temperature characteristics, have never produced any sort of sludge in the various engines in which I've used them, including the Continental in my Cessna. There must be a hot spot somewhere in these new Toyotas.

That's another reason for a remote filter set-up like this. The filter can(s) is/are removed from proximity to the exhaust. Additional oil volume assists cooling. Airflow over the remote(s) and increased surface area of the larger filter(s) promote cooler oil temperatures.

The cooling can almost be TOO effective. I use the bypass because my short commute distance never permits the oil to warm up to 180 degF or so, to "cook" combustion water out of it.

Son #1 lives in North Dakota. He'll use the single, EaO-15 on a remote because, while he needs more filtration than the EaO-57, he certainly doesn't need much additional cooling. His winter temperatures truly test AMSOIL's -60 degF pour point!

I think that most folks would be served very well by a single-remote kit, using the EaO-15 filter. The BMK-23 I used has very little margin for error when drilling the holes in the frame. There is very little clearance between the filters and the steering rack/sway bar. A single-remote provides greater margins for clearance error. Son #1, known here as "sweater914", will do a single sometime during the next months. I'm sure he'll post images of the result.

 

def, what was the total cost for parts? Do mech shops perform this install?

 

Great set up!
I would be curious to know if it would work with a V6 set up as well.

 

def,
Nice set up. Did you or could you please post results of you 36k mile oil analysis?

 

Thanks for the info. My dad and I have been running Ea057's and the oil at 12-15k mile (or 1 year) intervals. My dad doesn't usually drive over 10k in a year anymore and has noticed that his truck starts to use oil after 1 year if he doesn't change it. He thinks the Amsoil starts to break down at that point (that is their spec 25k or 1 year). No problems so far and my analysis last time was pretty good. The sludge issue is surprising and a little concerning. I just ordered 4 of the mann filters, but maybe I'll give them to my dad and get a remote kit.

 

Am I not reading correctly or do you have to buy 2 to get free shipping ?

 

Barnone: I doubt I'll ever run 36K during one year again. My drain interval is usually dictated by time -- one year. Old Guys don't drive all that much. I save my oil analysis dollars for the Continental in the Cessna. Engines in aircraft are useful. It's the gravity thing. My machine glides very well but I prefer to glide when I decide to, not after engine problems.

hoeflich: I'll scare you with some RETAIL numbers from the AMSOIL web site. AMSOIL always charges state sales taxes and, of course, you'll pay shipping from the closest regional warehouse that has your desired products. DEALER COST is significantly lower than retail. I've been a dealer since 1979. My dealer number is in the lower, 5-digit range. The cost of becoming a dealer is minimal and something to consider.

BMK23 Bypass Kit -- $269.00
BK295 Adapter -- 56.25
EABP90 Filter -- 37.15
EAO15 Filter -- 18.75
SSO1G 0W-30 oil (gallon) -- 41.40

In addition, the AN4-33A bolts are about $1 each when purchased individually from Aircraft Spruce.

The BMK21 Single Bypass kit is $191.00. I'll have to contact the tech people regarding its use as a full-flow mount with the EAO15. There is a bronze insert that restricts flow through the bypass. This would have to be removed for use in a full-flow application. More to follow on that. . . .

 

Fucking...insane. Well done!