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100,000 miles and trouble

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by MJW, Aug 3, 2010.

  1. Aug 5, 2010 at 10:52 AM
    #21
    dalsmthme

    dalsmthme Well-Known Member

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    Ithaca, NY
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    I'd go with hung brake....
     
  2. Aug 11, 2010 at 6:38 PM
    #22
    MJW

    MJW [OP] New Member

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    Michael
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    It was the u-joints had to replace all 3. Called local Toyota dealership just to check out the price they wanted $750.00:eek:. I bought the u-joints for $25 bucks a piece.:D No more frog sounds so he must have found a new home.
    Thanks for the adviced.
     
  3. Aug 11, 2010 at 7:27 PM
    #23
    gjbonner

    gjbonner Well-Known Member

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    Rhino Lined exterior,Fab Tech 6", 1.25" SpiderTrax spacers, Wheels painted Rustoleum Hammered Black, All Pro front plate bumper, Warn 9.5 ti winch, BHLM, Cig lighter constant on, Door beep toggle switch, Locker mod, Lock/unlock beeper Mod, Rear tailights smoked, 750w inverter with the outlets and on/off switch wired to rear of the console, Blacked out badges, blacked out rear bumper.
    yeah at 100,000 you should expect to change a few things like u joints. its not unreasonable. glad to hear everything worked out
     
  4. Aug 11, 2010 at 7:56 PM
    #24
    Airun

    Airun Well-Known Member

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    Show Me State
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    Debadged, custom emblem, Husky liners, custom bedrail Yak Trak setup with load bars, , BakFlip Fibermax, OME 3" lift with LightRacing UCAs
    If u joints bad usually vibe felt in seat as opposed to steering wheel if brakes or tire issue. Crawl underneath and jerk around on driveline and try to rotate driveshafts and feel for slop in u joints.
     
  5. Aug 12, 2010 at 5:54 AM
    #25
    jjew18

    jjew18 the Nightman cometh!

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    Alliance Airport
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    Added extra awesomeness to its original awesomeness.
    Was this relatively easy to do? I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but by no means would I say I am near a mechanic.
     
  6. Aug 19, 2010 at 12:58 PM
    #26
    FLtaco

    FLtaco Well-Known Member

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    Cocoa beach, fl
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    Painted stock wheels, bfg km2s, 5100s front and rear, tc spindles, add a leaf, 3" block, debaged, flowmaster exhaust, 2nd air filter removed, wheel spacers and k&n air filter
    I had close to same issue with mine around 100,000 miles whenever I hit 15-30 mpg it would make a squeak( kinda like a tree frog). Ended up being u bolts in drive shaft where shot. I found out by taking it to tire plus and getting a free estimate on what's wrong they tried charging me 980.00 bucks saying u bolts couldn't be taken out had to do whole driveshaft. Bull crap it cost me 50 bucks in parts and borrowing a vice from a bud and now there fine
     
  7. Aug 19, 2010 at 1:01 PM
    #27
    FLtaco

    FLtaco Well-Known Member

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    Painted stock wheels, bfg km2s, 5100s front and rear, tc spindles, add a leaf, 3" block, debaged, flowmaster exhaust, 2nd air filter removed, wheel spacers and k&n air filter
    To check do as he said crawl under and try moving drive shaft if it has play in it there probably bad. All you need are sone basic tools and a vice to push new ujoints together. Maybe a friend to help makes it easier
     
  8. Aug 21, 2010 at 6:58 AM
    #28
    MJW

    MJW [OP] New Member

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    jjew18 [​IMG]
    Member
    Its not that difficult you need some time and the right tools. I knew a shade tree mechanic that helped me out for a fair price.
     
  9. Aug 21, 2010 at 7:17 AM
    #29
    jjew18

    jjew18 the Nightman cometh!

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    Added extra awesomeness to its original awesomeness.
    Cool, thanks, I'll have to give it a shot.
     
  10. Jan 15, 2013 at 9:01 PM
    #30
    mstan77us

    mstan77us New Member

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    i have an 06 double cab 4x4 sport and it has 275,000 miles on it. I still have original brake drums in the rear and have never serviced the tranny or any fluids other then oil changes and air filter..lol runs pretty good still and i get 21 mpg. I do think its time for a new one though because at thsi stage anythign can go wrong! lol Oh..all i have really changed are the wear and tear items like idler pulleys, pads/shoes, cv axles, wheel bearings in the front. Other then that all fluids and everythign else all original..lol
     
  11. Jan 16, 2013 at 5:28 AM
    #31
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    Tim
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    A joint that feels tight does not mean it's good by the time they start to make noise they are most likely locked up and won't move. The only way to really know is remove the drive shaft.
     
  12. Jan 16, 2013 at 6:48 AM
    #32
    HoboSkreech

    HoboSkreech Member

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    "tree frog noise" may be the vent blower motor. Mine went bad and annoyed the ever living bajeezus out of me for months.
     

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