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What kind of coolant should i use??

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Old 08-18-2010, 06:06 PM   #1
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What kind of coolant should i use??

Hello, I need a Engine coolant flush done and The dealer told me to use only "the Factory Coolant". It costs about $28 dollars and change for one Gallon!!!!!! Anybody know where else i can buy the same kind of coolant for less?? I know that my coolant on my 2005 Toyota Tacoma Pre runner (2wd) is pink and is called "Toyota Super Long Life Coolant".
Thanks!!
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:08 PM   #2
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for a often as you change it, not very, just pay the 28 and use theirs!
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:11 PM   #3
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I use Prestone
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:16 PM   #4
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I just put some of that GM red stuff they sell at autozone in there. But I totally flushed it...
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:04 PM   #6
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K...got it. Second thing....anybody know a previous post or link on how to change the coolant on this Forum??? (cause im new)
Thanks again
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:10 PM   #7
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I use the toyota long life red in the supercharger and intercooler (red), and I use prestone snot green in the radiator so if I ever have a leak I can easily tell where the leak is coming from.
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:58 PM   #8
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I paid $17 for super long life at my dealer and that was with a coupon

If you have dealers charging your close to $30, you can use Zerex Asian antifreeze. It is supposed to be the same as Toyota Super Long Life and it is pink.


http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...antifreeze/105
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARGASM723 View Post
K...got it. Second thing....anybody know a previous post or link on how to change the coolant on this Forum??? (cause im new)
Thanks again
I'm pretty sure I've seen previous posts...try the search function. Also, the Haynes manual shows how to do it.

If you change your coolant every 30k, you really don't need the additives and stuff. Also, a "full" flush isn't entirely necessary...this means removing the drains plugs in the block, running water through the entire system, removing and/or replacing thermostat, etc.

I keep up w/ my maintenance, so here's an abbreviated version of the steps I take, but if it has been awhile, you might want to consider a full flush doing some of the items I mentioned above.

Basic steps:

1. Make sure the engine is cool
2. Open radiator cap
3. Open radiator drain plug and let coolant drain
4. close drain plug
5. Fill radiator with water
6. Run engine until dash indicator says the system's warm (I keep the radiator cap open so that it doesn't repressurize the system and makes it warm faster)
7. Cool engine
8. Drain water from radiator
9. Fill radiator with 50/50 water/coolant mix
10. Close cap, run engine, check levels
11. Keep checking the level for the next couple days of driving

Make sure you do you homework before getting starting. And dispose of your coolant properly....Good luck!
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:20 AM   #10
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Dexcool

As a professional mechanic for many years I have checked most types of coolant for ph level as part of doing services. I have found the GM Dexcool (pink) has a very high acid level. I strongly believe that is why I change so many leaking, eroded GM intake and head gaskets at work. I wouldn't use that stuff in anything.
There are several types of Pink coolant out there these days and they don't mix. Dexcool doesn't mix with anything else, both asian and europeans have pink coolant, I don't think they are compatable either, not sure.
I like the new "global" coolant that mixes with anything, you can get Prestone at Walmat for about 10 bucks a gallon. It is more economical to buy the straight stuff and mix it 50/50 with water than to buy the premixed.
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:59 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryde09 View Post
I'm pretty sure I've seen previous posts...try the search function. Also, the Haynes manual shows how to do it.

If you change your coolant every 30k, you really don't need the additives and stuff. Also, a "full" flush isn't entirely necessary...this means removing the drains plugs in the block, running water through the entire system, removing and/or replacing thermostat, etc.

I keep up w/ my maintenance, so here's an abbreviated version of the steps I take, but if it has been awhile, you might want to consider a full flush doing some of the items I mentioned above.

Basic steps:

1. Make sure the engine is cool
2. Open radiator cap
3. Open radiator drain plug and let coolant drain
4. close drain plug
5. Fill radiator with water
6. Run engine until dash indicator says the system's warm (I keep the radiator cap open so that it doesn't repressurize the system and makes it warm faster)
7. Cool engine
8. Drain water from radiator
9. Fill radiator with 50/50 water/coolant mix
10. Close cap, run engine, check levels
11. Keep checking the level for the next couple days of driving

Make sure you do you homework before getting starting. And dispose of your coolant properly....Good luck!
some constructive criticism on this method: If you do as you've outlined you will have a block full of mostly water after step 8 and then you add 50/50 to the rad in step 9 so you will be well below a 50/50 mix overall when done which may lead to troubles. And you're not flushing out all the old mix, as you've said, just part of it by only draining the rad.

I usually do similar to the above but I generally leave the rad petcock open w engine running and keep adding water to the rad for a while as it is running/draining (removing all the old mix). Once I have all water in the system, I shut off the engine, let the rad drain, close everything up and put straight coolant in the rad in step 9. This really isn't "right" as it doesn't guarantee a 50/50 mix but I've never had a problem. And of course you should get a coolant hydrometer and verify where you're at after some run time and everything is mixed up.

The right way is drain the rad and block and add all fresh 50/50.
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Old 08-19-2010, 08:17 AM   #12
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If you are changing coolant types safest thing to do is to ensure that you flush all the old coolant out first via; draining block and rad; "professional" flush; flush kit and a garden hose. Less chance of any inter-species coolant reactions... Then re-drain and add the new coolant. If I've flushed it I usually add straight coolant up to the mix level, then finish up with water, since there will be left over water in the system.

I have always used the Prestone "universal" coolant when doing this. Once the old is out, you're not at the dealers pricing mercy any longer.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:15 AM   #13
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Nice!!! Thanks guys for the info!!!!
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Old 08-19-2010, 02:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_P View Post
some constructive criticism on this method: If you do as you've outlined you will have a block full of mostly water after step 8 and then you add 50/50 to the rad in step 9 so you will be well below a 50/50 mix overall when done which may lead to troubles. And you're not flushing out all the old mix, as you've said, just part of it by only draining the rad.

I usually do similar to the above but I generally leave the rad petcock open w engine running and keep adding water to the rad for a while as it is running/draining (removing all the old mix). Once I have all water in the system, I shut off the engine, let the rad drain, close everything up and put straight coolant in the rad in step 9. This really isn't "right" as it doesn't guarantee a 50/50 mix but I've never had a problem. And of course you should get a coolant hydrometer and verify where you're at after some run time and everything is mixed up.

The right way is drain the rad and block and add all fresh 50/50.
Agree 100%...I just accepted the risk by ensuring I flush it at regular intervals.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurkin View Post
If you are changing coolant types safest thing to do is to ensure that you flush all the old coolant out first via; draining block and rad; "professional" flush; flush kit and a garden hose. Less chance of any inter-species coolant reactions... Then re-drain and add the new coolant. If I've flushed it I usually add straight coolant up to the mix level, then finish up with water, since there will be left over water in the system.

I have always used the Prestone "universal" coolant when doing this. Once the old is out, you're not at the dealers pricing mercy any longer.
This is a good point...ensuring "incompatible" coolant is fully flushed before you start with another type. I have read though that you can mix long life and "non-long life" coolant, just remember that you don't have the "long life" benefit anymore. I largely chose not to do the garden hose method because I didn't have enough containers to catch all that coolant/water/rust to dispose of.
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Old 08-20-2010, 05:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryde09 View Post
This is a good point...ensuring "incompatible" coolant is fully flushed before you start with another type. I have read though that you can mix long life and "non-long life" coolant, just remember that you don't have the "long life" benefit anymore. I largely chose not to do the garden hose method because I didn't have enough containers to catch all that coolant/water/rust to dispose of.
Understandable point. Depends on where you're at, and what environmental concerns you have, or are enforced.

I see what I didn't mention though was that I will drain the rad and block before hosing it.
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:04 AM   #16
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Before you find out the engine coolant will not drain from the engine on the V6, there is two valves on the drivers side of the engine that need to be opened. It's a real process to change the coolant on the V6. I'd suggest you search and find the thread before you start. What ever was posted up above is not going to work on the v6.

This thread here says there is only one drain plug on the block on the passenger side. The book says there is two on the drivers side. I've never done it yet so I don't know what is correct.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...ntifreeze.html
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Moleman View Post
I paid $17 for super long life at my dealer and that was with a coupon

If you have dealers charging your close to $30, you can use Zerex Asian antifreeze. It is supposed to be the same as Toyota Super Long Life and it is pink.


http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...antifreeze/105
This is good to know,I would like to get a verification about this stuff that it is Toyota Super Long life stuff,some Anti-freeze says you can use it in multipal Asia vehicles,Im in the same qaundry as the rest I hate paying $30 for a Gallon of Toyota stuff although I like the confidence that it doesnt harm the truck.
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:38 AM   #18
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Even some mechanics cannot find these plugs. They are suppost to goof up real easy so be careful with them as in strip easy.

http://www2.toyota.bruceusa.com:8083...a/01600210.pdf
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Old 08-20-2010, 07:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trap View Post
Even some mechanics cannot find these plugs. They are suppost to goof up real easy so be careful with them as in strip easy.

http://www2.toyota.bruceusa.com:8083/data/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/01600210.pdf
Good info

I repeat....get yourself the Haynes manual! It discusses the drain plugs in both engines and proper procedure with pics. Well worth the $20.
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:12 AM   #20
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i just use the toyota long life pre-mix...when there's a link it will leave a pink residue which helps you determine where the leak is coming from...i get it for $15 cause I know the parts guy and he always hooks me up with his employee discount...
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