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Old 09-09-2010, 02:53 PM   #1
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Antifreeze $

There must be a hundred Antifreeze threads so I'll just pass this along on a new one - don't know which thread to add it too.

Didn't want to pay the stealership price - found this - http://www.yotatech.com/f123/toyota-...online-113390/
Called a couple of Carquest - one $22 another $13 - guess where I'll be. Hope this helps ya from that I just got bent over by the stealership feeling.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:06 PM   #2
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make sure it is the 50/50 mixture w/ all the low blah blah blah crap in it.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george3 View Post
What's wrong with buying undiluted antifreeze and adding distilled water myself ?
just going by the maint.

EDIT: from what i've always understood, under or over dilution can cause issues.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:43 PM   #6
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From what I understand (I don't understand too much) there is anti-freeze for aluminum blocks and anti-freeze for iron blocks. Also, I always use distilled water for anything in my truck other than for washing it - I don't do that often enough! It tells me it likes desert and mountain dust the best!
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:47 PM   #7
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here is the info from the manual....

“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant”
or similar high quality ethylene
glycol based non-silicate, nonamine,
non-nitrite and non-borate
coolant with long-life hybrid
organic acid technology.
U.S.A.:
“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant”
is pre-mixed with 50% coolant
and 50% deionized water.
Canada:
“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant”
is pre-mixed with 55% coolant
and 45% deionized water.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhodge83 View Post
here is the info from the manual....

“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant”
or similar high quality ethylene
glycol based non-silicate, nonamine,
non-nitrite and non-borate
coolant with long-life hybrid
organic acid technology.
U.S.A.:
“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant”
is pre-mixed with 50% coolant
and 50% deionized water.
Canada:
“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant”
is pre-mixed with 55% coolant
and 45% deionized water.
Thanks for the quote. I'm going to Carquest after work tomorrow, Fri. I let you know what's what then.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBMurphy View Post
From what I understand (I don't understand too much) there is anti-freeze for aluminum blocks and anti-freeze for iron blocks. Also, I always use distilled water for anything in my truck other than for washing it - I don't do that often enough! It tells me it likes desert and mountain dust the best!
I heard the Red stuff from the stealership was like $28 so I'm looking for a better deal. I always use distilled water with antifreeze. Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2010, 07:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george3 View Post
I heard the Red stuff from the stealership was like $28 so I'm looking for a better deal. I always use distilled water with antifreeze. Thanks.
The stuff I got from the Stealer was not diluted (Toyota Branded)? It was intended to be diluted - and I think it was $22 (which I didn't think was too outragous for a stealer considering it's the right stuff and would create 2 gallons).
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBMurphy View Post
The stuff I got from the Stealer was not diluted (Toyota Branded)? It was intended to be diluted - and I think it was $22 (which I didn't think was too outragous for a stealer considering it's the right stuff and would create 2 gallons).
the "super long life" we're supposed to use is 50/50 diluted. the "long life" stuff is not. one gallon of the super was $22
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:11 PM   #12
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In case anyone cares the Toyota LL was $22.91 plus $1.60 jersey tax = $ 25.51 at Carquest. Distilled water was $1.25 at Pathmark. They said the Asian some have mentioned was Dexcool. I had a lot of problems with Dexcool on her Buick - lots of $ for repairs caused by Dexcool so no way on Asian. Asian was $13 a gal premixed so it's the same for the good stuff you mix your self at 50 50.
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:31 PM   #13
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It does suck having to pay higher amount of money for Toyota required stuff,but there hasnt been anyone from Toyota Corp. that will say that Brand X from Carquest meets our approval for use in our cars and trucks(they wont cause they jacked up the price on Genuine Toyota stuff). Ive scanned all Toyota Webs and BobIstheOilGuy.com sites and really no hard evidence for an alternative except for what people say theyve used. I had to suck it up for 2Gallons of Toyota SuperLongLife,was thinking about going just regular Toyota Red and Diluting it. I use Toyota brand T-IV Auto tranny fluid also over Amsoil and Mobil1 who say that thiers is compatable with T-IV prices there are compatable.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mush Mouse View Post
It does suck having to pay higher amount of money for Toyota required stuff,but there hasnt been anyone from Toyota Corp. that will say that Brand X from Carquest meets our approval for use in our cars and trucks(they wont cause they jacked up the price on Genuine Toyota stuff). Ive scanned all Toyota Webs and BobIstheOilGuy.com sites and really no hard evidence for an alternative except for what people say theyve used. I had to suck it up for 2Gallons of Toyota SuperLongLife,was thinking about going just regular Toyota Red and Diluting it. I use Toyota brand T-IV Auto tranny fluid also over Amsoil and Mobil1 who say that thiers is compatable with T-IV prices there are compatable.
People get all worried about this and I really can't see there is that much to get all worried about: first, Toyota's antifreeze is true long life so all that's really needed is a small supply for top-ups. Even Toyota's can't be too expensive to have around for that purpose; it's less than one fill-up fer chrissake!

Second: if I got bored with nothing to do and really wanted to change it I'd use any long-life that doesn't have silicates. The thing to avoid is silicates...especially in Japanese cooling systems. In European cars also avoid phosphates (and I think nitrates) but that's really a pollution thing they worry about. There are quite a few very good makers of quality silicate-free long life coolants, many who will I'm sure note Toyota compliance on their packaging. Just be sure to flush really well and get close to the right ratio for your expected low temp. and you can't go wrong.

By the way...50/50 isn't always best. People in northern Alaska or Canada might consider 60/40 for an extra margin of protection, and those in the desert southwest might like 25/75 since water is a whole lot better than glycol for moving heat out of the system.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:07 AM   #15
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My radiator was full but the res. wasn't. Went to the dealership quick lube to see what they'd charge to top it off. He got his jug and filled it. Charged me zilch. However I was prepared to just buy the fluids and do it myself. Worked out well.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:33 AM   #16
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Just buy some Universal Long Life coolant, you'll be fine. Any brand.

With the T-IV fluid, use Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF and you'll be golden as well. Don't get smashed over the head for the stuff, Advance Auto Parts carries it. Like 4 bucks a qt.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7028224
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddywh1 View Post
People get all worried about this and I really can't see there is that much to get all worried about: first, Toyota's antifreeze is true long life so all that's really needed is a small supply for top-ups. Even Toyota's can't be too expensive to have around for that purpose; it's less than one fill-up fer chrissake!

Second: if I got bored with nothing to do and really wanted to change it I'd use any long-life that doesn't have silicates. The thing to avoid is silicates...especially in Japanese cooling systems. In European cars also avoid phosphates (and I think nitrates) but that's really a pollution thing they worry about. There are quite a few very good makers of quality silicate-free long life coolants, many who will I'm sure note Toyota compliance on their packaging. Just be sure to flush really well and get close to the right ratio for your expected low temp. and you can't go wrong.

By the way...50/50 isn't always best. People in northern Alaska or Canada might consider 60/40 for an extra margin of protection, and those in the desert southwest might like 25/75 since water is a whole lot better than glycol for moving heat out of the system.
I flushed my radiator so I neded more than top off,also does the 3.4l Engine have a block plug? to get all of it I just did the resivour and Radiator. I d rather pay a few bucks extra for the OEM stuff instead of the Universal Aftermarket fluids especially the Tranny and Radiator these call for Toyota specific fluids and Toyota Corp. has no Recs. on aftermarket stuff,so its use at your own risk. Although I bitch about the OEMs price
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:37 PM   #18
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I'm flushing my radiator this week. How many jugs am I going to need to fill 'er back up?
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndigoTaco View Post
I'm flushing my radiator this week. How many jugs am I going to need to fill 'er back up?
I got 2 Gallons and used like 1 1/2 galllon,check your owners manual for precise measure.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mush Mouse View Post
I got 2 Gallons and used like 1 1/2 galllon,check your owners manual for precise measure.
You have it right for a v6. Remember if you are 'mixing' I strongly urge you to spend an extra buck and use DISTILLED WATER - not 'purified drinking water', etc... DISTILLED WATER
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