Questions about G2 Tacomas and Questions Re: Options & Building

Greetings-

In the next week or two I will be purchasing or ordering a 2010 or 2011 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab. I am leaning in the direction of a Long Bed TRD Sport Extra Value Package with JBL Audio as the short bed really makes no sense to me for a truck- it's not long enough to sleep in, put a dirt bike in with the tailgate up, and plywood and 2x4’s will stick out 3’ from the back. Within 250 miles of me, I can find no 2010 Double Cab Long Bed models in stock and available so this leaves me with the option of purchasing a new 2011. I am going to be having the dealer do some aftermarket upgrades at the time of purchase. My uses are going to be primarily wheeling and off-road excursioning in areas similar to Tahoe & Moab and traveling and camping either with just the rig with a shell or towing a pop-up trailer. I don't plan on buying another vehicle for quite a while, and this is going to be my only off-road rig.

My 4x background includes '68 Bronco with 351W built for competitive mud-bog & extreme trailing, '66 Bronco basically stock, 2x '85 Broncos with mild builds, '85 Toyota SR5 Extended Cab built for desert, until recently '76 CJ-5 mild build, and currently '79 FSJ Cherokee basically stock with big tires (probably for sale at a good price). I haven't really ever owned an independent front-suspension 4x.

I have a few questions that I need help clearing up and/or clarifying please.

Correct me if I'm wrong. The differences between the short bed and the long bed double cab in the sport package are bed length, availability of standard transmission, Automatic Limited-Slip Differential vs. Electronically Controlled Locking Rear Differential, and Active Traction Control.

Correct me if I'm wrong. The differences between the TRD Sport Extra Value Package (available on Long Bed) and the TRD Off-Road Package (available on Short Bed) are Tire & Wheel Size, Shock Absorbers, Engine Skid plate, Front Tow Hooks, Active Traction Control, and some cosmetics.

There are no real differences of any note between 2010's and 2011's?

Toyota offers 3 sizes of fender flares- 2-wheel drive, stock 4-wheel drive, and the third and largest is on both TRD packages?

I am a bit confused on this and Toyota's descriptions. Are the Toyota Automatic Limited-Slip Differential and Electronically Controlled Locking Rear Differential both internal, mechanical L/S's in the diffs? The Electronically Controlled Locking Rear Differential- is it actually a locker or a L/S, and basically, it goes from open diff to a locked diff? How durable are either compared to aftermarket? VSC and A-Trac are a form of brake control to control wheel spin- correct? Are they really worth it if one knows how to drive off-road?

I am going to have a lift installed. I am probably going to be running 33x12.5 though I really would like to run 35x12.5. It seems pretty basic and common to do a 3" lift and run 33's. I will probably be running a ToyTec Ultimate Lift with the Dakar Leaf Springs. The other option is the OME 3". However, on the ARB site they don't actually show a complete kit. They are comparable products? Are the Light Racing UCA's that ToyTec offers a best bet for the price? Essentially, they'll just make the front end work better and last longer with the lift- correct?

I am very intrigued by a few facets of these two trucks- granted, both of them are G1 Tacos.





They are both running 35's, though the first has a 3" lift and the second has a 6" lift. It seems as if 6" lifts are hugely more of a hassle and hugely more expensive. Is it possible to stuff 35's under a Tacoma with a 3" lift? From what I can figure, Bushwhacker is the only company that makes larger fender flares, but they don't offer much more room. Will 35's run with them? How well will Toyota Drive-Trains hold up to 35's? Also, 33's aren't much larger than stock tires- how much power is lost with 33's? How much power is lost with 35's? Would I be better off re-gearing for 33's? I would guess that I would definitely have to re-gear for 35's. What backspacing and offset are you running for 33's and for 35's for no or the least amount of rub?

Both of the two above rigs are running All-Pro Front & Rear Tube/Desert Style Bumpers. I really dig them. Avid and Badlands both offer similar products. However, all of the listed companies only make them for G1 Tacomas. Does anyone make complete Tube/Desert Style Bumpers and not just Light/Push Bars for G2 Tacomas? I am also going to need a Class III or IV receiver hitch.

Speaking of All-Pro, how are there Skid Plates? Would they be a good option or does someone make better underbody protection?

I plan on having dealer installed TRD Cat-Back Exhaust and TRD Supercharger. From what I've read, this is a good combination with no real problems and does help power quite a bit for towing and off-road performance. I am possibly planning on installing a URD Pulley as well for a bit more boost. Would this be recommended? Also, I have read mention of some URD electronics for controlling engine electronics for the supercharger and engine? What exactly is it and what does it do?

Also at time of purchase, I am going to have the dealer install a Webasto Sunroof- I'm thinking of a single panel as on the double panel, the front portion doesn't slide open- correct? Does anyone make a vertical sliding rear window for Tacomas similar to the one that comes on Tundras?

Does anyone have any thoughts on the TRD Bead-Lock Wheels? Are they real Bead-Locks or just wheels with rock-rings/cosmetics?

What is the weight capacity of the Toyota Factory Roof Rack option? Is it compatible with Yakima or Thule products (preferably Yakima because I have a ton of Yakima accessories)? Would I be better off going with Yakima towers and crossbars?

Final question- what price are you getting your 2010 and 2011 Double-Cabs out the door for from the dealer?

Thank you very much in advance for your assistance in buying and building my truck-
COOP

 

The blue truck is a second gen i believe

 

correct

edit: a lot of the questions that you have can be answered by doing a little research. luckily, TW has a search function and it is very helpful. it might be hard to have all of your questions answered because you've got more than a few. welcome to the site!

 

too much for me

 

X2

 

who's truck is the blue one? sexy.

 

in response to some of your questions (you asked quite a few ), i run 33"s on my DCLB, and there is a slight power loss (almost not enough to be too noticable)...but i have lost some MPG and speedometer is slightly off (5mph off at 70mph). Enough to have me consider re-gearing. Not definite, but consider it.

As far as backspacing, I got the TRD FJ rims, and I did not have to trim at all. i forget what they are...i think -0.5? someone correct me on this..

 

The blue truck belongs to a user named StaticFilter. It says it's a 2005 so that would indeed be a G2, though All-Pro's website and All-Pro when you talk to them on the phone say those bumpers are only available for a G1.

I did indeed use the nifty search feature a number of times. I got a lot of good info. The Limited Slip/Locking Differential/A-Trac thing I have found explained in some detail but not really answering the questions I asked about it. Pretty much most of my questions, I am looking for clarification or expanded explanations.

 

I know on newer model Jeeps, you can program the computer to correct speedo differences and fix tranny shift points due to larger tires. Can this be done with Tacomas?

 

You asked a bunch of questions in that, no one poster on the forum has the answers to all of 'em.

The "Limited Slip" differential is now purely electronic - performed by actuating the ABS system.

The "Locking Differential" is a true locker.

The TRD "bead locks" are cosmetic, not a true bead lock.

And the question you didn't ask, but begs a counter question anyway is: if as you state, your 'primary purpose' for the truck is off-roading, why are you choosing the longest possible truck configuration?

 

That would be one of TWO primary purposes. And, even though it is the longest Tacoma, it's not incredibly long for an off-road rig. It's still shorter than any full size truck, it's probably shorter than my FSJ, and it has a realistically useable bed length (as stated in my first paragraph).

And I realize no one poster has the answer to all of my questions. I'm very happy with partial answers.

 

Ill take this paragraph

Yes this is a great combo without any real problems.

It makes towing a lot easier, it goes from power being the limiting factor to breaks

Off road I really dont notice it because I hardly go over 2500rpms

I have the URD pulley It gave a little more boost, and a little more pep without any knock or pingnig

URD MAF calibrator, and the APR X-1 are the two electronics I would research. The MAF calibrator calibrates the air ratio, and the APR X-1 is a engine controller doing everything you could possibly imagine

 

Too many questions... all I got out of it was "dirt bike" - Let's go ride we have a few Utah TW dirt bike riders here.

Come get all you questions answered at our next Utah Tacoma meet this Saturday.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/south-west/112162-utah-meet-greet-4-sept-25-a.html

It will probably be the smallest meet we have had but we try and get together at least once a month.

 

I'm gonna be in SLC on Wednesday to see KISS at Rio Tinto, Thursday I'm ordering my truck, and then Friday I'm driving to Denver for the weekend to see The Cult and go to a wedding. After that, I'm down for ANY wheeling and riding once I get my truck.

Utah people- anyone have recomendations on DEALERS to go to OR stay away from?

 

The blue truck was StaticFilters http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/members/staticfilter.html but he sold it.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/107366-sold-my-truck.html

 

I bought mine from Menlove in Bountiful, Mark Miller downtown wouldn't play ball with me when it came to price and I refuse to buy anything from a Larry H. Miller dealership.

My salesman's name was Dan Zismer, If you go there tell them I sent you and you can keep the referral $$ From one TW member to another

PM me if you need any info.

 

Definitely you should buy the truck you want!

And yes, the Tacoma is shorter than any 'full size' double cab that's out there.

But do be aware while you're still shopping that the 2011 double cab 'long' bed is 8" longer overall (221") than my 'full size' 94 F150 4x4 standard cab was with its 8' long bed (213") and is definitely longer than your FSJ. And that 44' turning radius is a big one on the trail; my F150 could hang a 'youee' in 'only' 40 feet.

 

On a 2011, both the Sport and Off Road packages are going to have ALSDs. There are no more mechanical LSDs. The OR is also going to have a rear differential locker and ATRAC. ATRAC is pretty impressive.

 

X2


Tacoma A-Trac
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44V1zK2XyxQ

Bronco No A-Trac
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czfRzcNvKlQ

Same hill different day.

 

Both TRD Sport and TRD Off-Road have the same LSD system. It uses breaking to perform the LSD action, not a mechanical clutch. Technically speaking it's an open diff with braking assist. The TRD Off-Road has an e-locker from the factory (physically locked, engaged by an electronic servo under 3mph). The TRD Sport does not. The TRD Off-Road has ATRAC, the sport does not. ATRAC (see links above) is usefull and can almost but not quiet act as a stand in locker for the front/rear (even though the rear has a real one). It can be impressive, but honestly it's no locker.

Wheelbase... of course shorter is better, the doublecab short bed and accesscab (6' bed) are the same wheelbase. The dcab 6'bed that you want is of course longer, worse turning radius, ect... but you know that. Just be prepaired for it at MOAB... it'll probably be a PITA (never been myself but the pics pretty much sum it up).

Now, if you go with the sport you can add in ARB air lockers (or whatever brand you choose) and they're beasts, you can do front and rear... however you want. It's just more cash, plus you'll have onboard air this route You won't be able to get ATRAC... but again it's just a nifty toy, not a necessity.

I'm not sure if both have DAC (downhill assist control) or not... it's kinda useful. Also the TRD Off-Road has a much bigger brake booster for things like DAC and A-TRAC.

Otherwise, it's mostly the same. The TRD Sport... esentially is just an anesthic package. It gets you color matched panels, a fake hood scoop, the TRD seats (same off road), compass/temp overhead, in bed inverter outlet, color matched fender flairs (note they still have the metal fender behind them, no width gain)... I think that pretty much sums it up. The Off-road has all that minus the color matched pieces and hood scoop.

Note, the TRD Sport and normal SR5 have the same LSD system now... no advantage there. 05-08 had a mechanical LSD in the Sport's... no longer.

Hope that helps a bit, I'm still learning the suspension stuff myself. However if you do go 285's, note you will need to do some cutting and a body mount chop. Also you'll need spacers (go spidertrax or allpro hub centric), or get 4.5" backspaced rims.

One last thing, if you're debating auto vs 6spd for this truck... the auto is a better transmission. Search up the 6 speed throwout bearing issues for more info. It's the only thing that made me go the auto route twice. That, and auto is much easier on slow crawling/hills off road