Some questions

Hello, I've tried searching a little for these answers but my head injury doesn't allow me to focus very well. So here are some questions.


Are there any differences between the 2010 and 2011 Tacoma double cab 4x4?

If I am going to get a lift kit with coilovers, would it defeat the purpose of buying a trd off road? Should I just stick to the base or sport?

Thanks and I look forward to your responses!

 

You haven't purchased the truck yet?

What are you using the truck for?

There isn't any real differences between an 10/11 trucks except for any minor options. The Double cab trucks do come in long bed or short bed configurations in both years.

If you're doing a lot of offroading or in situations where 4lo is required - get the TRD offroad as it has the locker in the rear.

You can put a lift kit on any tacoma. It allows to fit bigger tire for more ground clearance. Lifts can be put on any truck. The locker is GREAT to have if you actually use it. Otherwise, don't spend the extra money if you won't use it.

 

I think that mechanically and structurally, there are not differences...but the 11 has a different grille than the 10 and older.

 

I haven't purchased it yet. I want to make sure I do it right.

This will be my everyday truck as well as my exploring truck. Off road trails, Moab, etc. So the elocker only comes on the offroad? I will definitely need that. Is there a disadvantage to having a long bed compared with the short bed? Again I am a noob with trucks. Thanks again

So far my upgrades (keeping an opened mind) will be 5-6 inch lift, 33 tires, supercharger and replace the front bumper with an arb or something.

I was originally set on getting a raptor but I realized I could customize a tacoma the way I want and probably save 10 grand.

 

For real off-roading (not mall-crawling) you'll want something closer to a 3" lift to clear 33" tires. You want to lift it only as much as you need to clear the tires, keeping your center of gravity low and maximizing your wheel travel.

The Raptor, like someone above said, is a totally different truck. Full sized, mid-travel suspension setup from the factory, powerful V8, and big. The Tacoma would definitely be a better pick for technical off-roading because of the better approach angles and its smaller size.

The Raptor is designed like a SCORE truck, it's made to go fast over uneven desert terrain. It's very good at this. The Tacoma you'll be able to take in any direction you want, and if you get the right parts and quality work it'll be good at a wider variety of things.

 

Definitely different truck but it is an off road truck and I want similar of the Tacoma. Now I know I won't get the power or torque which I don't need but the supercharger will add all I need. The tacoma is more of a personal thing for me as its been my dream truck for a long while.

I know this gets asked alot but what is the difference between the 3 and 6 inch lifts besides the obvious? I hear that 3 inch is better for off roading? I don't want 35 inch tires, I want 33 and please excuse me as I know nothing about trucks and 4x4. I love the outdoors and I want my truck to be able to get me everywhere backcountry. I hope I don't irritate too many with my noobness. I hope to learn a lot through you all.

Best Regards

 

Oh, in addition to my post above, the 6 inch lifts require you to drop your front differential down so you don't gain any ground clearance with that lift.

 

Could you get by that by adding a 3 inch lift and adding the coil overs set at 2.5"? I am all for the 33's so that works but I'm wondering if adding those would actually add more height?? noob

 

You could, but your CV axles would be at a terrible angle to the differential and any downtravel could rip them apart. That's why the 6" kits have diff drops, so it keeps the CV axles at the same angle as stock.

 

I dont believe that is true.. according to toyota's website (as far as i can tell) it is available in a long bed. and i could of sworn i've seen them before.. but i could be wrong.

In addition to TRD off road/ TRD sport, the 2011 tacomas are also available in the TX/ TX Pro, which "starts with the TRD Off-Road Package, so you'll have all the hardware you need to drive to the ends of the earth and back. Unique 16-in. TRD beadlock wheels with BFGoodrich® Rugged Trail tires, a stainless steel exhaust tip and black tube steps complete the picture. The T|X Pro offers the same off-road package, wheels and tires as the T|X, plus a TRD performance exhaust and unique body side graphics that let everyone know this Tacoma is nobody's toy."
.. basically just another way for toyota to get even more money from you that you could just spend yourself on cooler stuff.

I personally like the look of the TRD sport better than the offroad because I hate chrome (which is what the rear bumper on the TRD offroad is), the sport comes with color matched rear bumper as well as the hood scoop (non-functional, but i like the look of it)

I do however wish I had lockers, although I dont need them. When I eventually move somewhere that they would be necessary, I'll buy aftermarket lockers.

As far as lifts.. I just did bilstein 5100's set at 2.5" and it does definitely make the truck look alot better, but I would like a taller lift since my truck is still shorter than new F150's. I do still have stock tires though, and when I upgrade to 33's it should help raise it a bit more.

 

Sorry but I must respectfully disagree with your opinion.
3" vs. 6"? I'd take the 6" any day!
A DB lift like Procomp, RCD, or Fabtech does increase the ground clearance front to rear. But you are correct it doesn't increase the ground clearance left to right (tire to tire) BUT!! The DB lift will maintain 100% of your range of articulation.
A 3" lift will use up almost 80-90% of your usable down travel.
Now if articulation isn't important? Then YES! a 3" lift is a better set up.

But anyone who know's anything about wheeling will tell you; that articulation is the MOST important aspect of good traction.

You can have the best tires in the world and it won't mean a damn thing if it's off the ground.

Think of it this way, Try and go hiking while standing on the tips of your toes. (Essentially that is how a 3" lift is achieved)

But wheel to wheel (Left to right) the 3" lift does have better clearance. But front to back the DB will allow you to go over larger obsticles without getting high centered.

And as a basic rule of offroading you always keep your tires (left to right) on the highest points, to get the best traction, so clearance between the wheels (left to right) isn't such a big deal.

A solid axle rig can NEVER increase it's wheel to wheel (left to right) clearance So it really can't be that important.

 

Regarding the the longbed / shortbed question. There is a disadvantage to a longbed because of the longer wheel base!

 

I'm not sure about CV angles with a 3" lift but if I'm not mistaken, replacing the entire coilover assembly with an aftermarket one made for lift would keep the same amount of travel, maybe even more if you get an extended travel shock like Icon or King offers, correct?

Now strut spacers definitely wouldn't give you any more travel, I agree. I was thinking along the lines of a full coilover lift.

I think it all depends on what OP is doing with the truck. Dirt roads? Conventional offroad trails? Rock crawling? Mobbing in the desert?

Regarding the disadvantages of the long bed, it could be an advantage in the desert. Longer wheelbase = more stable. For trails, shorter is better because of the tighter turns, better approach angles, etc.

 

thanks for all the info so far guys. Much appreciated!

 

In theory YES! But because the ride height is at almost full extent of the down travel. It would still be like hiking while on the tips of your toes.

Your truck suspension still has the full range but it lacks the weight to compress the suspension efficiently. Thus the opposing wheel will be prone to lift off.

Mid point of the suspension: (Suspension has equal up/down travel.) DB lift or stock.

Let's say that the weight of the truck can compress one wheel 4". but the opposing wheel can droop 4" that would essentially give you a total of 8" suspension travel.

Now a 3" lifted truck:
The weight can still compress the suspension 4", BUT! the opposing wheel now only can droop 1". This give you a total of only 5" suspension travel.

Although the suspension still has the full range? It's static ride height has essentially lost it's ability to droop. Simply because it is always at a point of being almost fully extended.

So the C/O's give you a better range and better valving!

But the physics of the suspension is the limiting factor. (Like walking around on the tips of your toes)

The DB lifts maintains the full usable range of the suspension. That is why it essentially is a better platform for offroading.

But make no mistake. DB lifts aren't the greatest! There are a lot of better options out there, but for the price? It is one of the best options. (A 3" lift after all is said and done will cost almost the same as a DB lift.)

 

No everyone orders their truck from Amazon duhhh

 

In that situation though you would have 1" of downtravel, but 7" of uptravel. So if it's valved properly, it would be fine offroad. But yes, with the drop bracket you would have 4" of downtravel and 4" of uptravel, with the stock angles preserved and stock ground clearance. But you couldn't stuff the wheels as far up as stock, so in situations where you have one side of the truck up you have a higher center of gravity.

Also, if the truck is at an angle, you can achieve that uptravel because more weight will be placed on that coilover. The best (and also most expensive) solution, in my opinion, is an extended travel setup with 2.5-3" of overall lift on 33's. That gives you the full range of wheel travel, a 3" suspension lift to clear the tires, and an inch of lift from the wheels.

Again I'm not the most knowledgable on the subject so I'm putting out there what I understand and welcome any insight. Not to derail the OP's thread or anything! But I think the information will be useful for him as well.

 

Agreed

 

Again I respectfully disagree. Valving has to do with dampening of the suspension movement. The coil compression (Stiffness) is where you will have the problem. (The 3" lift springs are basically designed to hold the same weight as the stock springs. just longer) Not even wanting to get into spring rates.

Slow driving over obsticles won't compress the suspension. So basically you'll never see the 7" of up travel unless you do high speed runs, or jump the truck.
Or like you stated come down an angle on one wheel taking most of the weight. (But that I think would be rare)

Now if it's an LT set up? That's a whole different animal. AllPro actually makes an AWESOME LT 4x4 kit.

But IMHO? The best and most costly is SAS.

 

got my truck from Steepandcheap.com
one killer good deal at a time until its gone.