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Battery Upgrade

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Backcountry Medic, Dec 9, 2010.

  1. Dec 9, 2010 at 8:22 AM
    #1
    Backcountry Medic

    Backcountry Medic [OP] Member

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    Alpine HU + 4 Channel Amp, Infinity Components in Front, Sealed 8" Custom Sub, BQuiet/Dynamat Interior, Debadged Exterior, Undercover Tonneau, Shortened Anntena, Removed Mudflaps, Removed Intake Resonator and Secondary Filter, Afe Drop-in Filter, 3" Hidden Hitch Receiver, Flowmaster 40 Exhaust, Dee Zee bed mat, URD Short-throw Shifter
    Own a 09 4 cyl prerunner

    Own a Leer cap with extra brake light/interior dome, installed a tow hitch with pin setup for a lightweight trailer w/ lights (no brakes), Installed aftermarket HU + 400w Amp pushing speakers/small sub, installed a 300w AC/DC converted which i usually run laptops, small electronic devices, and various low power camping equipment, and plan to install aftermarket/replacement foglights in stock location.

    This seens very taxing to my truck's electrical system. I researched performance alternators ($400) and yellow top opitma batteries ($200)

    Questions? Are these two needed? Or just a better battery from sears more cost effective. I'm never going to run three stereo amps, power a winch, or run a hella light bar which seems to be the more common reasons people upgrade their electrical system?

    Thanks
     
  2. Dec 9, 2010 at 8:24 AM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    FlimFlubberJAM
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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    A dual battery set up may be more benaficial than just a higher cap. battery. Best is to upgrade the alt, AND the dual battery.
     
  3. Dec 9, 2010 at 8:47 AM
    #3
    ViperJay

    ViperJay These are the voyages...

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    Chris
    El Paso, TX
    Vehicle:
    05 Radiant Red DCLB Sport 4x4
    URD CAI, DTLT Headers, Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator, Aero 2540i muffler, NST Pulleys, URD MAF Calibrator, Icon 2.5 Coilovers , Bilstein 5100s in rear with All Pro 3" Leaf pack, Total Chaos UCAs, 2 Kicker 12" CVT Subwoofers w/Kicker ZX350.2 Amp, JVC KD-AVX77 stereo, ARE Camper Shell, 1 20" LED bar and 2 7" LED bars in front, 4 KC 6" HID Slimlites mounted on Bajarack roof rack, sliders, Cobra 29 XLR CB Radio, Icom IC-207H UHF/VHF Radio, Bed Lighting, Fog light mod, Projector Retrofit Headlights HID 5000k, HID fog lights 4300k, BHLM, LED taillights and turn signals, Glassworks front fenders, Blue Sea Fuse Box, Mil-Spec Battery Terminals, Odyssey PC2150 battery, Satoshi Grill, All-Pro Front Bumper
    I've been running an Optima Yellowtop for about 6 months now, have had no problems with it. I can even run my stereo w/subs and my off road lighting at the same time for over 2 hours with the truck off (night party in the desert :p). The best battery out there imo
     
  4. Dec 9, 2010 at 9:45 AM
    #4
    skunk

    skunk what did I miss?

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    SoCal
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    YOU WILL BE MISSED Satoshi Grill, FX-R retros, husky liners, bed bolt d-rings, TRD short throw shifter, 2.5 Fox Coil overs, AP UCA's, AP Expo rear leaf with Fox 2.0 shocks, Extended SS brake lines, AP kick-out sliders, 265/75/16 on Konig Countersteers, AllPro Apex front bumper and Zip Ties.
    You may want to look into the components that are included with the Tacoma "towing package". IIRC it includes a higher amperage Alternator and an Heavy Duty Battery.
     
  5. Dec 9, 2010 at 10:05 AM
    #5
    Backcountry Medic

    Backcountry Medic [OP] Member

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    Alpine HU + 4 Channel Amp, Infinity Components in Front, Sealed 8" Custom Sub, BQuiet/Dynamat Interior, Debadged Exterior, Undercover Tonneau, Shortened Anntena, Removed Mudflaps, Removed Intake Resonator and Secondary Filter, Afe Drop-in Filter, 3" Hidden Hitch Receiver, Flowmaster 40 Exhaust, Dee Zee bed mat, URD Short-throw Shifter
    This maybe a dumb question but wouldnt a second battery added to the car make it run @ 24V? Or do you mean keep it separate and just run after markert stuff to it?
     
  6. Dec 9, 2010 at 10:10 AM
    #6
    skunk

    skunk what did I miss?

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    YOU WILL BE MISSED Satoshi Grill, FX-R retros, husky liners, bed bolt d-rings, TRD short throw shifter, 2.5 Fox Coil overs, AP UCA's, AP Expo rear leaf with Fox 2.0 shocks, Extended SS brake lines, AP kick-out sliders, 265/75/16 on Konig Countersteers, AllPro Apex front bumper and Zip Ties.
    the batteries are wired in parallel so the voltage does not increase.

    if you wire in series then it would be 24V.
     
  7. Dec 9, 2010 at 6:21 PM
    #7
    MadeInMaine

    MadeInMaine MadeInMaine

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    is the yellow top really necessary?

    with double din stereo,
    small sub
    2x sets off road lights
    HID headlights
    etc....
     
  8. Dec 9, 2010 at 6:25 PM
    #8
    98_Mud_bug

    98_Mud_bug 98_mud_bug

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    ive got 4 halogen kc lights, a thousand watt amp with 2 12's and no capacitor with the stock alternator and i have a optima red top. it does pretty good.. but i have killed it pretty quick without the truck running.
     
  9. Dec 9, 2010 at 6:33 PM
    #9
    ktmrider

    ktmrider Senior Member

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    The heavy duty toyo batteries are bad ass. mine is going on 5 years and I run my double din compressor and Kragien HIDs and havent had to jump it one time
     
  10. Dec 27, 2010 at 2:01 AM
    #10
    MadeInMaine

    MadeInMaine MadeInMaine

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    Optima red top $160
    Optima yellow top $180

    Sounds like you get a lot more for just $20 bucks more...

    Looks like that will be the next upgrade soon...
     
  11. Dec 27, 2010 at 3:27 PM
    #11
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    Alternators keep you from going negative and losing battery charge. Useful for any type of electrical add on. It gives more overhead for any device.

    Batteries let you run longer in the negative and damage/wear the battereis less when in the negative. A deep cycle battery will run longer in the negative before damage. A larger deep cycle is better. Two deep cycles and an isolator will allow you to never have to worry about not being able to restart your vehicle after running a high draw device with the engine off.

    If you dont have anything that will draw tons of power like a 5HP electric compressor or a 5HP electric winch, which will draw more current than the alternator can provided in the short term, you dont really need dual batteries. Get a high output alternator first... then get a deep cycle battery to replace your original once it wears out.

    Eventually any battery will wear out and fail though... so a dual battery set up with isolator will let you switch to the other battery. Thats the only need IMO if not running an electrical device that no alternator can support.
     
  12. Dec 27, 2010 at 6:02 PM
    #12
    MadeInMaine

    MadeInMaine MadeInMaine

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    is it true that TRD OffRoad have a bigger/stronger alternator?
     

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