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Which ARB Air Compressor

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Old 04-28-2011, 01:23 PM   #21
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I took some pics as I installed it, but somehow either my iPhone or my computer ended up eating up half of 'em, so I didn't have enough snaps to do a really satisfying install thread.

I've got the 4 banger, so I mounted the compressor on the driver side fender, right behind the fuse box, using some thick rubber washers and grommets to provide some vibration isolation between the compressor and the body.

I had to have ARB USA send me two separate parts - the air solenoid for the locker didn't hold pressure, and the Y valve for the add-on tire inflation kit was improperly threaded.

As a result, my locker works, but I still haven't gotten around to installing the Y valve and tire inflation kit. So I can't really report on how well it works for airing up tires.

My expectation is it'll be just roughly about as fast as my VIAIR 400 - around 3 minutes a tire or a little less (285/70R17.)

It wasn't easy to find a good switched power line behind the dash - I used the most current wiring diagram off of toyotaowners.com ($15 fee for two days of access.)

My most convenient power source was a tiny 22ga wire, so I brought in an unswitched power line from the battery and added a little solenoid there, behind the dash, and hooked the output of the solenoid as my "switched" power into the ARB air harness. That's probably total overkill, but I've had aftermarket stereo electronics fry a car computer before, and so I'm super paranoid about the whole thing.

The dash lighting wiring doesn't work exactly the same as ARB's harness expects (they expect variable input voltage to ground) so if you want to wire up the lights with variable lighting levels, you have to do a tiny bit more work (wire into both a positive source and negative return, not just a positive source and then to ground.)

Now, I *HATE* cutting factory wires, so after waffling for a while and I eventually decided I'd rather have unlit buttons than make necessary two additional cuts and crimps.

On the tacoma "basic" model, there are three empty switch blanks right where things like factory Locker and atrac switches would go, so those made a great place to put the ARB compressor and locker switches.

Anyhow, since then, ARB has now introduced an even newer continuous duty air compressor, so you'll want to check that one out as well.
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:32 PM   #23
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I can take a new pic "as installed." Obviously that won't show the mounting holes.
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:32 PM   #24
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Thanks for getting back. Ill have to set a day aside to get this done. Thanks for the tips!

I was eying up the CKMTA12. You can run air tools off it! Not sure how big it is or if it will fit under the hood.

Pap
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:36 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmoose View Post
I can take a new pic "as installed." Obviously that won't show the mounting holes.
Perfect, I'm just curious how well it fits there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pAP View Post
Thanks for getting back. Ill have to set a day aside to get this done. Thanks for the tips!

I was eying up the CKMTA12. You can run air tools off it! Not sure how big it is or if it will fit under the hood.

Pap
the new constant duty is 2x as big as the heavy duty. Also pulls lots of power. I have had a Large OBA system, now downsizing to make things more sensible.
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:36 PM   #26
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I was eying up the CKMTA12. You can run air tools off it! Not sure how big it is or if it will fit under the hood.

Pap
Holy Carp! That thing looks way capable, but there's no way it's fitting under the hood.
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmoose View Post
Holy Carp! That thing looks way capable, but there's no way it's fitting under the hood.
Ha! yea.. little too pricey for the limited air tool usage I would get out of it. The CKMA12 will be perfect for my needs.

Pap
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:14 PM   #28
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Here you go.

Dash switches.


Taken from the driver side - Front of truck is left side of pic:


Taken from above the engine bay - Front of truck is right side of pic:
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:12 PM   #31
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:03 PM   #33
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And now I've installed the front as well.



When I initially installed the switches, I wanted to splice into as few factory wires as possible. So I didn't wire up the switch lights to the instrument light dimmer circuit.

I figured - I don't wheel at night - why do I need the switches lit?

Well, over time, I've figured out that I *do* DRIVE at night, and sometimes want to adjust the air vent on the driver side. And I don't want to accidentally engage the compressor or locker! So it's helpful to have those switches lit so that I can *AVOID* accidentally engaging them in the dark.

So I spliced into GREEN (not "light green") and GREEN/WHITE wires off of the instrument panel rheostat to get my positive and negative leads for the three ARB switches' background lights. Naturally these are wired in PARALLEL not in SERIES. (And if you don't know what that means, I respectfully suggest you that you FIND OUT before you start cutting and tapping in to your factory wires)
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:07 PM   #34
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Another note - when I first installed - I had a problem with the locker air solenoid releasing pressure when it wasn't supposed to. So I had ARB send me a new one.

The same damn thing happened this time! So I figured it had to be me; nobody is that unlucky. So I pulled the little stainless dust cap filters from the ends of the air solenoids and cycled the switches again and again to blow them out. Eventually, the system held air reliably.

I figure one of two things was going on:

1. I'm obsessive about leaks. So I use a lot of teflon tape. As I installed and reinstalled the threaded connectors, it's possible a couple shreds of teflon tape got into the air tank and then got drawn into/stuck into the air solenoid, causing it not to close all the way and be unable to hold pressure.

2. I'm obsessive about leaks. So I check for leaks with lots of soapy water. It's likely that some soapy water got into the air solenoid - and it's possible that the soapy mixture somehow prevented the valve from sealing shut relaibly so again, it blew at high pressure.

At any rate, after I cycled the valves twenty times or so, they were holding reliably.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:42 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brunes View Post
So yeah...Another blast form the past (not too far back tho)

How tight are those switches to get into the dash in the blanks to the left of the steering wheel??

Did you have to take out dash material to get them to fit?? Any photos of the wiring??
You will need to work the blanks with a dremel to get them to fit on the switch panel.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:55 AM   #38
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Yeah...I peeked and thought that was gunna be the case...A little, a lot??
It wasn't too much, maybe 10 min. to open all 3 of blanks up when I first took it apart I was like they'll fit no problem until I actually did a test fit. I did the same thing a few weeks ago when wiring up the ADD switch in the blanks below the stereo so it isn't much material to remove to get a good fit.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:55 AM   #39
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Just sent one photo to TW live.

Hot glue to hold the switches in place.

Custom wires for the switch lighting since factory panel dim is on the ground side not the positive side.

Pull dash lights from two wires in the dash dimmer that is RIGHT THERE as that's far and away easiest access.

I also spliced into that for switched power.

Use wiring diagram from NorCal ttora to see which three wires to cut into.

Extra care cause they're like 22 gauge skinny.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:57 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n0rth View Post
It wasn't too much, maybe 10 min. to open all 3 of blanks up when I first took it apart I was like they'll fit no problem until I actually did a test fit. I did the same thing a few weeks ago when wiring up the ADD switch in the blanks below the stereo so it isn't much material to remove to get a good fit.
Okay-I gotta find some time to play with the truck now. And get in the mood to do some wiring....
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Originally Posted by bjmoose View Post
Just sent one photo to TW live.

Hot glue to hold the switches in place.

Custom wires for the switch lighting since factory panel dim is on the ground side not the positive side.

Pull dash lights from two wires in the dash dimmer that is RIGHT THERE as that's far and away easiest access.

I also spliced into that for switched power.

Use wiring diagram from NorCal ttora to see which three wires to cut into.

Extra care cause they're like 22 gauge skinny.
Saw your photo- That was a great start. I'll check out TTORA for that wiring too. I'm just running two switches for Fogs and Offroad Lights (For now- Compressor/Locker will be later)
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