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Old 12-15-2010, 05:29 PM   #1
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Day Time Running lights

I purchased a 2011 Prerunner. It came with Day time Running Lights. I do not want these lights to be on while the engine is running and the head lights are off! I believe a relay switch for the turn signals/hazard lights controls the Running lights. Question: What is the part number that will disconnect the Day Running Lights?
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:01 PM   #2
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so you do not want people to see you during the day when you are riding around? That drives me nuts when I go to work in the early morning and I see people driving around with NO lights on at all. Makes me think they were told using your lights burns more gas.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:04 PM   #3
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BTW....welcome to Tacoma World.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:06 PM   #4
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Umm... I just asked the dealership to hook it up to their computer and turn it off. They did. It's now off. Problem solved.
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:41 PM   #5
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See here

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lig...alth-mode.html
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paidfor View Post
so you do not want people to see you during the day when you are riding around? That drives me nuts when I go to work in the early morning and I see people driving around with NO lights on at all. Makes me think they were told using your lights burns more gas.
You mean it doesn't?
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:30 PM   #7
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DTRL

Thanks to CROM dated 04-05-2010 I found the wire to cut so that I can either park with the engine running or drive w/o the headlights on and not have the DTRL glaring out. To "paidfor", I'm a safe driver.
Having said this, I'm having trouble locating CROM's instructions. I'm new to TW and navigating this site. I'm sure I'll find it. Thanks for all the comments and help and what a great web site, and I do love my truck!
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paidfor View Post
so you do not want people to see you during the day when you are riding around? That drives me nuts when I go to work in the early morning and I see people driving around with NO lights on at all. Makes me think they were told using your lights burns more gas.
Maybe dude just wants some privacy when he's parking with his girlfriend in the evening, you know, heater running but lights out.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregman View Post
Maybe dude just wants some privacy when he's parking with his girlfriend in the evening, you know, heater running but lights out.

Step on the parking brake
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Old 12-18-2010, 12:27 AM   #10
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you can put a switch in the circuit too.

Quote:

I just finished the mod adding a switch to turn the DRLs off and on by cutting the green (with red tracer) wire as posted by 007Tacoma previously.

I got another fog lamp switch (84160-04010), 4 wire terminals (82998-12340) and a connector (90980-11090).

I connected one side of the cut green-red wire to terminal 4 and the other side to terminal 3.
I connected terminals 1 & 2 to terminals 1 & 2 on the adjacent switch so it lights up with all the other switches when the head or parking lights are on.

Everything works great.

Here's a picture with the new switch shown on the lower row of switches in the middle. This was a vacant spot before.
You do have to file a small slot in the opening to match the switch, no problem.

This thread is located at:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...-new-post.html
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:41 AM   #11
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The way the daytime running lights is implemented by the Toyota distributors creates a big problem. They use the turn signals as the DTRL at full brightness. Unfortunately the headlight housing is not built for the heat level that builds up from the turn signals being always on and my enclosure is melting from the inside.

Has anyone else experienced this?
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Old 12-18-2010, 07:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDCPA View Post
The way the daytime running lights is implemented by the Toyota distributors creates a big problem. They use the turn signals as the DTRL at full brightness. Unfortunately the headlight housing is not built for the heat level that builds up from the turn signals being always on and my enclosure is melting from the inside.

Has anyone else experienced this?
Sure it's just not that heat in south Florida causing it. I would think if this happens it would be covered under warranty.
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:17 AM   #13
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Cooler running Bulb for DRL

Quote:
Originally Posted by iroc409 View Post
Are the Philips kits cheaper than the Hella kits? I know the Hella kits are pretty expensive--I think in the neighborhood of $300+.

Off-the-rack LED replacement bulbs are not really the best solution, as they are often not bright enough or they do not really put out a light pattern that is optimal for the housing--and you still have the consumption and heat issue with added resistors.

So, here's my possible solution (I was too lazy last night to post):
---------------------------------------------------------------

Yesterday I talked with Daniel Stern (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/), who is a highly-regarded automotive lighting expert. He has been helping me with a custom lighting solution for my Tacoma, which I will post when it is completed.

At any rate, he provided a suggestion that while it is not guaranteed to fix the issue, really should sufficiently mitigate it.

In the condensed version, GM had a significant issue with bulb life and blowing a lot of bulbs some time ago. So, they released a new bulb spec that rated the bulbs at 14v, instead of 12.8v that most automotive bulbs in the US are rated at--a much more realistic rating considering typical alternator outputs.

Daniel Stern suggests trying the 14v GM bulbs instead of the typical 12.8v bulbs, as they will run a little cooler than the currently-specified 4157NA bulbs. Since they will run cooler, they will be much less likely to burn the headlight housings. Additionally, the output difference between the bulbs is negligible, so performance will stay about the same.

The new bulb is a direct replacement, and the bulb number is: 5702KA.
The GM part number for the bulb is: 15233607.
It should be the bulb for a 2005 Saturn Ion.

There is also a clear version of the bulb available, and I have the part numbers, however since our trucks do not use any clear versions I didn't list it--but contact me if you would like it for another vehicle.

Stern suggests buying the bulbs from an actual GM dealer. He says that generally the "best" bulbs go into the production line. The "next best" bulbs--ones that meet the spec--go to dealer parts counters. The bulbs you buy in the auto parts stores are generally whatever is "left over" and works, but may not even truly meet the specification.

They are available from gmpartsdirect.com for $6.21/ea, but shipping may cost more than the difference from buying locally.

Also, when buying from a GM dealer, make sure and inspect the bulb and make sure the base says "5702KA". Some dealers just stick to stocking one part number, and only have the 4157's. They will not help, so don't buy them if they don't have the right number on the base.

Quote:
I went to the local Chevy dealer today and bought a couple of the 5702KA bulbs.

I gave them the part number 15233607 and they told me that number has been replaced with number 13502321.
The price: $11.94 each ($6.09 at GMPartsDirect, I don't know the shipping).

The bulb, 13502321, is marked Wagner 12V 5702KA and the bulb in my truck is a Sylvania 4157NAK.

I have no idea if the 12V printed on the bulb is nominal and it's actually 14V or not.

The bulb is about 1/8 inch shorter though, so that moves it away from the lens. The filaments are arranged differently as well.

What the hell, I'll give them a try.

New bulb on the left in the picture.

I found these references which say the 5702 is a bit lower wattage and 14V but the lifetime in hours is shorter.
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b...ka~wagner.html
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b...~sylvania.html
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:34 AM   #15
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe ....
OZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDCPA View Post
The way the daytime running lights is implemented by the Toyota distributors creates a big problem. They use the turn signals as the DTRL at full brightness. Unfortunately the headlight housing is not built for the heat level that builds up from the turn signals being always on and my enclosure is melting from the inside.

Has anyone else experienced this?
All of the Canadian trucks have to have the DTRL as standard . I have been following this issue and the odd thing is that of all of the people posting about melting lenses , I can't remember a single one of them being from Canada .
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:47 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paidfor View Post
so you do not want people to see you during the day when you are riding around? That drives me nuts when I go to work in the early morning and I see people driving around with NO lights on at all. Makes me think they were told using your lights burns more gas.
I look at it the other way. DTRL's, especially with the case of cars that use the headlights at a lower power, make people stupid. The cases I see of people running NO lights at all when they should is way lower than the amount of cars I see driving in the pitch dark with no lights on cause they don't realize that their DTRL's aren't their normal lights so they have no other lights on other than half powered headlights, and no rear lights on. Granted, this could be fixed by ALSO having lights that automatically come on when it's dark, but there are a lot of cars with DTRL's but no auto headlights. Saying every car should have DTRL so your car can always be seen when the driver is too dumb to know when to turn lights on is like saying you should just limit every car to 65mph so no one speeds.

All the added car features in the world can't completely fix the fact that some people just shouldn't be on the road.
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:43 AM   #17
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Has anyone else had an issue with the dtrl's melting the headlight enclosure?
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:56 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDCPA View Post
The way the daytime running lights is implemented by the Toyota distributors creates a big problem. They use the turn signals as the DTRL at full brightness. Unfortunately the headlight housing is not built for the heat level that builds up from the turn signals being always on and my enclosure is melting from the inside.

Has anyone else experienced this?

No, but I removed the stupid yellow and orange lenses when I did the BHLM. Headlights look like hell when not clearcornered.
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeesnob View Post
Has anyone else had an issue with the dtrl's melting the headlight enclosure?
a few threads on here re. DTRLs melting. Just do a search for DTRL.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:19 PM   #20
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The link to the Stealth Mode thing is what you want. You don't need to put a switch or anything if you don't want, just snip the wire in half. To be honest you don't even need to wrap the ends with electrical tape, they won't touch anything. It works like a charm.
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