4WD in alaska

Alright so I've done plenty of research and searched the threads to where my eyes are burning. I live in alaska and our road conditions are back and forth but mainly hard packed snow/ice in the winter. There tends to be a lot of driving on dry pavement on busy roads. With that being said, what long term damage will occur if I leave 4WD on when it hits the dry patches on curves/corners? I switch the damn thing in and out of 2WD/4WD so much it's annoying. When its in 4WD and I try to turn sharp...I hate the jerkyness feeling as if my truck is about to snap in half.

Any suggestions?

 

The 4wd is not designed to be used on high traction surfaces. The jerkiness you are feeling is the drive train binding. I highly suggest you stop before you break something. As far as suggestions, maybe a better tire will do for the marginal places and then when you really need it put it in 4wd.

So you understand why it's not a good idea
http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/def_turn.html

 

Thanks for the quick response. Am I fucked if the drive train binding has happened multiple times? I knew deep down it was bad but sometimes when I pull into a gas station or somewhere to park I forget to turn off 4WD =\. Shit.

 

Buy an AWD vehicle instead. 4wd on pavement = no bueno.

I suggest an STI . ...or there is always the H3T Hummer Truck .

 

An STI is my dream car but I live in alaska so it's completely impractical . I'm a complete outdoorsman (broke one going to college that is) and need to be able to carry mountain bikes/snowboards/camping/fishing/etc..

There's a 2006 magnetic gray STI I could possibly trade for if I talked to the owner some more.

 

I wouldn't say you are screwed yet I certainly wouldn't continue it though. Try to make a habit of checking it before you leave or at least before you start up again. It could be beneficial to leave it in 4wd in park if you are parked on a slippery surface just not so much if you drive away with it on on a high traction one.

 

Toyotas don't just break on pavement! Hwy. driving is fine... a big binde would happen if you tried to turn shrap, like into a parking spot or 90º turn from a stop sign, etc.

However, IF you have an '09 or newer, then let the VSC and traction control in 2WD do the work of safety... My 2010 in H2 drives on rainy roads as well as my 2005 did in 4WD!

 

I don't see any need to use 4 wheel drive once you get moving even then I rarely use it I suggest not leaving it on all the time

 

On the sharp, partially dry, in-town corners, take them as wide as you can while in 4x4. It's really unavoidable to bind it up a bit versus switching in and out. Just don't get crazy with the throttle and shock load the drivetrain stuff from slipping on the slick, then hitting a dry patch.

 

No amount of telling the OP that the binding is OK will keep his truck from being damaged .

The OP is in Alaska , and will have the 4wd engaged full time for months , at what point does " just try not to turn " make sense ?

If your truck is binding up , you shouldn't be in 4WD in that particular situation .

2WD with some weight in the back is quite capable if you are in mixed conditions .

 

Justin, your tires can go a long way to avoid having to put it in/out of 4wd all the time. In previous houses (back when I was renting) I had to travel 5 miles on a windy road uphill passing over long stretches of dry pavement and then patches of snow/ice...some of which were on turns. I completely understand the need to get it in 4wd before you hit those patches (else your back end goes out on you on the turns). But a really appropriate set of tires for your conditions will make a world of difference. I find I can get out of areas with a A/T tire with a good snow tread pattern in 2wd where a normal A/T tire would require 4wd. After all, it's all about traction. So maybe you need to consider a good A/T tire with/without studs?

Otherwise, I don't see a solution other than to switch it in/out all the time.

 

Jason'sLawnCare, I read the info in that link you provided. ( I will start over and read every page again) One of the pages says at the top,(Title?) " Four Wheel Drive Only Works Good on Level Surfaces." If this is so, then most of the owners using this forum are constantly endangering/abusing their Tacomas, and have bought the wrong truck. I bet 90% of the guys here revel in going into the rough stuff week ends and doing nothing but driving their trucks in four wheel drive in this very uneven environment. I am assuming you are warning us of the shortcomings of part time four wheel drive because Tacomas are not full time four wheel drive platforms- these being defined as vehicles which CAN be driven all the time (but do not have to be ) in four wheel drive.(vehicles with an extra dif in the transfer case) If all this stuff is true, and I am not misinterpreting it, then the Tacoma is nothing more than a good little two wheel drive truck with part time four wheel drive. I have a higher opinion of the Tacoma than that and believe it to be a much more robust truck than for which it's being given credit.

 

I just posted the link so the op can have an understanding(if he didn't already) of why the 4wd binds on hard surfaces.

I didn't read any of the other articles of the site before now. I believe this is the one you are speaking of?http://4x4abc.com/4WD101/one-tire-spinning.html

It's not saying 4wd is useless on uneven terrain. It's saying it has shortcomings with open differentials on uneven ground. To my understanding this picture best represents the limits that the article is trying to express

two wheels opposite side are firmly planted while the others spin like there's no tomorrow. In this situation a full time(open center diff) vehicle would be in an even worse situation than that.

Refer to my avatar. I am in no way saying the Tacoma is the wrong truck. I'm not sure where you got that from.

 

I drive an all stock single cab with the stock tires and no weight in my bed and I rarely use four wheel drive I to live in Alaska and can drive just fine.

 

Yeah your binding the drive line. I would get some really good winter tires and sand bags and call it a day. You will be fine just slow it down a bit.

 

Open differentials are the norm... The transfer case we Tacomas have to go into 4WD is like a 'locker' in that one side (the front) must rotate the same as the other (the back)... front and back drive shafts. The front drive shaft rotates more than the back when turning... because the front wheels travel more than the back... not tons more, but enough that one should be driving straight or off of dry pavement when using Part Time 4WD.

Open differentials allow the left tires to rotate at different speeds than the right tires... as needed in turns. With lockers activated... you need lots of slippage to steer!

AWD (Full Time 4WD) has a third differential at the transfer case that allows the front and rear driveshafts to rotate differently. The Tacoma does not.

So, in short, for easiest steering, be in 2WD and open differentials. For improved traction on poor roads or off road, use 4WD...

For superior traction (and inferior steering) use 4WD + Lockers in one or both differentials...

For superior traction AND superior steering use the A-TRAC.

 

^^^^
Atrac is for women and children!!

 

check out the links below in my signature...

 

I say.. sell your truck and get a dog sled. There is probably a dog sled forum too.

 

ihave the same truck and do the same type of driving on snow covered rural roads and then onto dry pavement. I find that the traction control kicks butt and I tend to need just 2wheel drive. i put on some durtracs and have about 100lbs ofsand salt sitting behind my rear axel and this has helped a ton. I actually have forgotten I was in 2wheel drive.

IMO change tires use some weight in the bed. use 4wd less. and jst be thankful you dont have to lock/unlock your 2 front tires everytime.