front differential side bearing replacement.. done!

When I pull my driver side CV if the needle bearings fall out I'll replace. Otherwise I'll probably leave it as is. The new wheel bearings made my truck quiet and smooth as glass.

Refer below

 

Thanks for your post. You obviously know what you're talking about. Keep us posted if you make any progress with your regional Toyota rep.

 

Finished this repair this weekend. I rented a pilot bearing removal tool that attaches to a slide hammer, worked like a dream. Whole install was maybe 5 hours by myself. Only thing that gave me trouble was getting the cv back in. 130000 miles loosened things up tho. Let me know if anyone has any questions while things are still fresh.

 

How bad were your vibes? mine are getting bad. from 5-45mph and constant cyclic vibe during low speeds.

 

Has anyone got a recent quote on changing the drivers side axle bearing and seal from the dealership. Ive got what seems to be a good bit of slack in that bearing. Not making any noise yet but i have a vibe from 55-60.

 

Dealer wants about $700 for doing one wheel bearing so I would imagine it would be close to the same price range??

 

Where did you rent the pilot bearing tool from?

 

Good luck finding a dealership that will change the bearing from the outside. They want to follow the FSM and tear down the whole front diff to get to it, at which point they'll tell you it's cheaper to swap out the whole front diff with a new one. Cost for that is about $2,200.

I rented mine from O'Reilly's (formerly Kragen around here). They had the pilot bearing removal tool that fit their slide hammer.

 

If we are talking about dealerships, I haven't found one that is willing to do a rebuild of the front diff -- all the ones I've talked to said that Toyota dealerships have to replace the whole diff (upwards of $2200).

Now a small mechanic shop may do it for around $700-800 if it is a 5 hour job.

 

ywen had an independent shop do it for around $500 IIRC. They replaced the bearing without removing the diff. Can't remember which thread he posted that in...maybe it was the deleted Krookz thread?

 

I believe i can get the suspension out of the way pretty easy, Once thats done and the wheel side of the cv axle is loose, Does the axle simply slide out from the housing? Is there any reason other than lost needle bearing for me to open up the diff housing? Ive replaced bearings before but never on a front end.

 

Axle doesn't just "slide out". Mine took an experienced person awhile to get it out with a lot of hammering/swearing. It had to be pried out with a crow bar and still hammered on with a small sledge hammer. I wanted to see how you get one out and it was a challenge on mine. Now unlike Jamco, the new one slid in easily (I thought we would have to pound it in but it almost just slid in after a little finagling).

And I wouldn't worry about losing the needles inside the diff. If you are worried, stuff something like a sponge behind it first to keep anything from going inwards. And have an extension magnet handy just in case. Aside from that rare possibility that they fly back in far enough to become a problem, there's nowhere else for those needles to go. The bearing is right at the edge behind the seal.

 

sorry guys, been out of town,


@Dead Bolt

It got to the point where it was making the vibe at most any speed. 5 to 45 pretty bad.


@bradpenton

dealer wants 2300 to change it because they just change the whole diff.... stupid i know

@BenWA

I rented the pilot bearing removal tool from Autozone. It fit their slide hammer.

@bradpenton

the axle doesnt just slide out, there are special groves machined into the axle that are designed to place a pry bar on and hammer it out. It is a PITA and the hardest part in my opinion

with the pilot bearing removal tool you shouldnt have any problem with the needle bearing falling out. it took maybe 5 good wacks to get it to come out.


@05Moose

it was my fault the cv didnt go in easily, i took the snap ring off cause it was preventing me from getting it in, then i realized it was supposed to be on there, but with another beer down the hatch everthing worked out well. Sept for that damn dust shield that i hate, i can never get it to not rub the rim.

my email is jamco6000@gmail.com feel free to email, i have some pics but it was dark during the gritty part

 

Hey just wanted to give everyone an extra idea on removing the axles. If you use the slide hammer with a small hook to get in the slots on the inside part of the cv. Then take a large hose clamp to hold it in the groove. It should only take a few good solid wraps with the slide and it should be out.

 

Haynes manual say it should come right out with the slide hammer. Good idea using the hose clamp to keep it from slipping out. Gonna give it a shot this weekend. Let you know how it goes.

 

My 2011 with 4600 mi on it started doing the vibe - 5-40mph sounds about right. It of course started right after I put the 5100's with an Eibach spring at the stock setting. Net lift is 1.6" up front. Like all others it goes away in 4hi. Its barely noticeable and I know the dealer will say its normal. Especially beacuse the duratracs make some noise BUT again in 4hi its noticeably smoother. WTF I dont just have a new Diff I have a new truck. I'll be taking it in for my free oil change and will bring it up and expect no help - they will either tell me cant feel it or its the lift causing it! This is such BS! I've had Ford, Chevy, and a 99 Tacoma 4x4 with lifts and never had an issue like this. It's bugging me more and more now. I may have to put the stock wheels and tires back on because they are much quieter so the problem will be more noticeable . . I want to move the front shocks to the .85 setting but this problem will get worse I'm sure.

 

So my truck started to experience some front end noise, it almost sounds like a rock is stuck between the Dust shield of the brake and rubber is grinding. There is also a pinging noise and now I have a whirl and can feel it in my tires. I have a feeling its this diff bearing stuff. I thought it might be my CV axle but everything looks fine, no rips or leaks anywhere. I have a 3 inch lift that I have been running for about 4 yrs with a drop kit and my angles are almost perfect. I'm stumped! I took it to the Toyota Dealership and in 4 hrs they told me it was my belt tensioner and it would cost me around $500 to replace. I say BS, supposedly they had their number one tech look at it and that's what he thinks it might be........they want more time with my truck.

I came across this thread and this makes sense to me. BIG question, if I do this do I really have to get a new CV axle......can't I just sand it down a bit if it has those small groves and what side does the bearing go in.....drivers side or passengers. I think the noise is coming from the passenger side.

Also, should I check my wheel bearings first?

Thanks!

 

Im planning on doing this next weekend. Has anyone had the problem return after doing the repair? How many miles between?

 

If you can take pictures of the entire process.

 

i'm subscribing just because i plan on lifting my truck next year. this will be an excellent thread to have handy