Drive line/rear end clunk

Hello, I am pretty sure its coming from the rear drive shaft ( 2005 dc long bed sport 4x4, 70,000 miles). When I start from a dead stop I get a light clunk from the somewhere (feel it in the peddle no noise but have not checked in a quiet area so maybe clunk is not the best word but hopefully you get what I am trying to say), nothing major just feels like something has a little play. I don't notice it when I am coasting and give it gas just when it first starts off (actually about 1-2 seconds after it begins to move. Did the rear end service about 15k ago and the oil looked pretty good and I decided to check it today and it has some discoloration but I have to imagine its fine. The rear end is not running hot. I have shaken the drive shaft and don't feel any excessive play but the double cab has a pretty long drive shaft so I could be missing something. Any thoughts?

 

I did do a search and chris 4x4 mentioned axel wrap was common with stock springs but I have a aftermarket rear pack and the clunk is a recent development.

 

Auto or stick? Not sure if the LB came in 6spd. Have you greased the driveshaft zerks?

 

Auto, yeah at the last oil change. MAYBE 2500 back?

 

Its your U Joint. I just did mine the other day. Replaced it myself. part cost me 26 bucks.

 

dealer item? Read somewhere here they are hard to come by. Could this be true?

 

any idea which one to start with?

 

bump

 

You might try applying some new grease to the slip joint, half way along the rear drive shaft. When I did this, the thud on stopping/takeoff went away. It's a bit of work, but not difficult. As has been said already, make sure your U-joints are in good order too.

 

You can buy a U joint anywhere. I ordered mine from pep boys.

 

Did you need to have them pressed out or could you work them out with a socket an hammer? My 78 bronco use to eat them for lunch and it was a easy job, have to imagine the taco should not be very hard.
For the slip joint I assume you also have to pull the shaft? Did you use the same grease you used for the u-joints? I have a tube of mobil 1 synthetic, that should work right?

 

ok pumped about half a tube of grease in the u-joints and the thunk is gone for now, I called toyota and the parts department said they did not sell the u-joints and recommended I replace the entire shaft. Just for fun I asked for a price and.... $1230.00!!!
Time to call auto zone and see what they have. I assume the grease is just masking some form of damage to the u-joints and it will surface again if I don't replace them?
Any thoughts?

 

U joints are easy to replace, do it yourself. You will need to get a Ujoint press because they are pressed in but I have replaced them before, not on my truck yet.

 

Yup, you have to pull the shaft. I loosen the carrier bearing bracket (two bolts) and remove the four bolts at the rear-most U-joint, where the driveshaft connects to the rear diff. Of course, the rear end is jacked up so that the tires are off the ground. Remember to chock the front wheels!

It takes some wiggling, but the rear portion of the driveshaft can be pulled out of the front portion (push it back toward the front of the truck and wiggle). Clean everything up, apply the new grease (I apply it to the splines of the male and female portions), and re-assemble.

I use Molykote BR-2 grease for the slip joint and Pennzoil Pennlith Ultra EP-2 for my U-joints. The Molykote is designed for use on splined joints, also use it on my ATV. I'm not an expert on greases, but as long as the Mobil 1 stuff is good in high temperature and high pressure areas, it should be OK. Water resistance is good too.

 

yeah i was able to hammer them out with a socket. First time doing it for me and it was no problem.

 

Well I was able to swap out the u-joints, and carrier bearing, but had a vibration in the shaft once I reinstalled ( I did mark its location), took it to driveline here in orange county for a balance and she is good as new.
thanks.