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Uprgrading to rear lockers..

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Old 01-23-2011, 09:57 AM   #1
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Uprgrading to rear lockers..

I am thinkin about upgrading my rear diff to auto-lockers. Anyone have insight on the idea?
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:06 AM   #2
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like an e locker or air locker?
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:16 AM   #3
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I installed a powertrax locker in my open diff when I had a Jeep. Dana 35 axle. It wasn't a hard job b/c you didn't have to mess with setting preload and backlash, just removed c-clips on axle shafts enough to slide axles out of diff, replace side and spider gears with powertrax unit, and re-assemble.

A removable third member on the Yota axles would be nice, but I have no idea if installation of a powertrax (or similar) would be the same beyond that. If it is, I recommend going for it.

EDIT: pretty sure any locker that's electric and/or pneumatic replaces the entire diff (like Detroits, ARB, etc) and therefore would require sufficient knowledge and equipment to install.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:16 AM   #4
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I just bought a lock right no-slip... you have to have an open diff to run it though (ie. no LSD or locker) They seem pretty good for what i am wanting it for and ive heard good things from people that have ran them.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:17 AM   #5
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:17 AM   #6
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What insight is there to have? The pros and cons are well documented, there are options available for purchase. Either do it or don't.

Personally, I'd rather have selectable.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natetroknot View Post
I installed a powertrax locker in my open diff when I had a Jeep. Dana 35 axle. It wasn't a hard job b/c you didn't have to mess with setting preload and backlash, just removed c-clips on axle shafts enough to slide axles out of diff, replace side and spider gears with powertrax unit, and re-assemble.

A removable third member on the Yota axles would be nice, but I have no idea if installation of a powertrax (or similar) would be the same beyond that. If it is, I recommend going for it.

EDIT: pretty sure any locker that's electric and/or pneumatic replaces the entire diff (like Detroits, ARB, etc) and therefore would require sufficient knowledge and equipment to install.
You beat me to it
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:28 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody6047 View Post
I just bought a lock right no-slip... you have to have an open diff to run it though (ie. no LSD or locker) They seem pretty good for what i am wanting it for and ive heard good things from people that have ran them.
Lock-rights....I couldn't remember the name of em but same thing as the powertrax. Once in a while you'll prolly hear that sucker clunk pretty good but I never had a problem otherwise. Made a huge difference wheeling and was a lot of fun in the snow, since you lose the rudder effect the ass end will go wherever you point it!

Good purchase, good luck with the install!
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natetroknot View Post
Lock-rights....I couldn't remember the name of em but same thing as the powertrax. Once in a while you'll prolly hear that sucker clunk pretty good but I never had a problem otherwise. Made a huge difference wheeling and was a lot of fun in the snow, since you lose the rudder effect the ass end will go wherever you point it!

Good purchase, good luck with the install!
Thanks bud, im looking forward to it, i hate doglegging everywhere! Ill be installing as soon as i get home in Feb
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
What insight is there to have? The pros and cons are well documented, there are options available for purchase. Either do it or don't.

Personally, I'd rather have selectable.
Only selectable option is ARB. ARB costs $800, ARB compressor $200, installation $200-$300.

As opposed to Powertrax which costs $300 and CAN be installed in your driveway.

It all depends how much you can spend. Yes ARB is bad ass superior locker but not everyone has $1300 to drop
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08WhiteTaco View Post
It all depends how much you can spend. Yes ARB is bad ass superior locker but not everyone has $1300 to drop

I would argue they should save until they do. But then, I have a hard time settling. Also, it's worth noting that if you go to air locker, you get OBA in the deal as well.

Also, selectable locker is doable on the cheap by finding an e-locked third member either online, or at a junkyard, and wiring that thing on up. A little more install time/labor, but probably less costly than even the auto-locker in pure dollars.
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post

Also, selectable locker is doable on the cheap by finding an e-locked third member either online, or at a junkyard, and wiring that thing on up. A little more install time/labor, but probably less costly than even the auto-locker in pure dollars.
Selectable locker fits into 8" axle, all non e-locker toyota axles are 8'4". yes its possible to fit in the e-locker 3rd member, BUT it requires modifyin the inside of the axle housing. Much easier routs is to get a whole 8" e-locker axle and swap that...
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08WhiteTaco View Post
Selectable locker fits into 8" axle, all non e-locker toyota axles are 8'4". yes its possible to fit in the e-locker 3rd member, BUT it requires modifyin the inside of the axle housing. Much easier routs is to get a whole 8" e-locker axle and swap that...
Either or...axle or pumpkin...they would both work.

But yes, that's my point...
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