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Cheap Upgrades to Gain HP and Torque

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Old 03-28-2011, 03:55 PM   #41
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If it was "cheap" to increase HP or torque then the manufacture would do it from the factory. Or better yet, if it was "cheap" and didn't ruin anything then they would already be doing it.

The only real way to get more HP/torque is to install a supercharger or completely rebuild your engine with high performance internal parts like pistons, valves, cams, injectors, manifolds, heads, etc.

I don't believe that the is anything you can buy off the shelf that is going to make significant difference.

You're all entitled to my opinion on this.
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:56 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whippersnapper02 View Post
But since these engines are probably tuned for 87 no power difference will be made with 91. The manual used to say use 91 for increased performance but it was removed in the later years. Maybe they were tuned for 91 and they aren't know.
What you are missing is that there is no specific tune for a particular gas. The computer finds the tune for its self. It may take a couple tanks of gas for it to adjust accordingly but it will adjust. There is the possibility that they took the self adjustability away in favor of more consistancy, but for those people who have the years that state there is a difference, there will be a difference. Maybe not as high as they stated but it will ultimately have higher timing. These motors are new to me so anything I am saying is questionable, but having dealt with knock sensors and KR on Mazda motors for the past two years I have a very deep understanding of how systems like these work.

Me and my neighbor changing the blower belt on my car


And the Mazda that had adjustable timing
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:44 PM   #43
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I've run higher octane in my '05 Taco with 4.0 since I bought it...if you look closely at the statistics the engine was "detuned" in horsepower and torque after '05...We also have a '04 4-Runner w/ 4.0 that we run the higher octane in...
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:35 PM   #44
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To the OP, look, this is physics really, these trucks are heavy with an engine that IMHO is somewhat underpowered to begin with so yes, like you, I sought out more HP and torque. What I learned along the way is having to separate fact from fiction and marry it to reality. My truck with two dudes in it and a half-tank of gas comes in right about 5000lbs, that's ALOT of vehicle to get up and make boogie. So right there is reality, this ain't a sports car and it's not a V8, without an SC, it's not going to do 12 sec 1/4 miles. Then it's what do you want to do with that power? If the answer is to drive fast, then good luck when it comes to any sudden turns, get a sports car, you'll live longer. Me, I wanted to have enough on tap to get up to freeway speeds quickly, pass quickly and pull the occasional heavy trailer. The insurance is too fucking expensive to drive fast anyways. So after MUCH research and having run across a few bogus claims along the way, here's what I did, it's still a work in progress but so far it's made DEFINITE improvements:
1. URD MAF Calibrator, this will salvage your gas mileage after you put on a Cold Air Intake like the 63 series K&N that I put on. Be prepared to solder onto the wiring harness behind your glove box, price $212.00 shipped.
2. Cat back exhaust, three inch stainless steel, nice exhaust note, minimal gains but I think I will gain more when I put on the shorty headers and Y pipe. $800 or so.
3. Be realistic, I dropped about 1400-1500 plus the hours to put everything on and I still have a ways to go. I don't want to spin the tires and I would rarely ever need to go 110, but when I do it gets me there quicker than stock.
I will probably end up dropping around another grand+ to get the shorty headers and Y pipe bought and installed, at that point I will have gotten all of the available power out of that engine short of a SC. I put in the best plugs and change the oil every 3000K religiously with only synthetic oil. My philosophy is simple, make it as easy as possible for the engine to breathe and don't do anything that will possibly wreck it or piss off the ECU.
Bottom line my truck hauls ass for a 5000 lb, six cylinder truck. Yeah, it was worth it. To any Taco owners that don't think (therfore don't have), that the CAI and cat-back exhaust add HP and torque, I will GLADLY race you for pink slips!
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:41 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper362 View Post
What you are missing is that there is no specific tune for a particular gas. The computer finds the tune for its self. It may take a couple tanks of gas for it to adjust accordingly but it will adjust. There is the possibility that they took the self adjustability away in favor of more consistancy, but for those people who have the years that state there is a difference, there will be a difference. Maybe not as high as they stated but it will ultimately have higher timing. These motors are new to me so anything I am saying is questionable, but having dealt with knock sensors and KR on Mazda motors for the past two years I have a very deep understanding of how systems like these work.

Me and my neighbor changing the blower belt on my car


And the Mazda that had adjustable timing
There is always a base map that is programmed into the factory ECU. From there the ECU can make the necessary adjustments it needs to run at peak efficiency since every engine will run slightly different. If there was no base map at all the engine would not run because the ECU wouldn't know what to do with any fuel.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:35 PM   #46
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?

Quote:
Originally Posted by island808 View Post
Looking around the ONLY thing that changes hp or torque on the 1gr is forced induction.

You NEVER get cheap horsepower on anything. Though K&N advertises 10 hp on the tacoma for their filtercharger. They're absolutely full of shit. Who wants to start a class action against them? Ruining engines AND lying?
How is a K&N damaging to an engine? It makes sense that a higher flowing filter will feed the engine more air than it could get through the stock paper filter(s) and cluttered ducting and baffles..?

Im curious about more info
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:46 PM   #47
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Awesome

Quote:
Originally Posted by acdronin View Post
To the OP, look, this is physics really, these trucks are heavy with an engine that IMHO is somewhat underpowered to begin with so yes, like you, I sought out more HP and torque. What I learned along the way is having to separate fact from fiction and marry it to reality. My truck with two dudes in it and a half-tank of gas comes in right about 5000lbs, that's ALOT of vehicle to get up and make boogie. So right there is reality, this ain't a sports car and it's not a V8, without an SC, it's not going to do 12 sec 1/4 miles. Then it's what do you want to do with that power? If the answer is to drive fast, then good luck when it comes to any sudden turns, get a sports car, you'll live longer. Me, I wanted to have enough on tap to get up to freeway speeds quickly, pass quickly and pull the occasional heavy trailer. The insurance is too fucking expensive to drive fast anyways. So after MUCH research and having run across a few bogus claims along the way, here's what I did, it's still a work in progress but so far it's made DEFINITE improvements:
1. URD MAF Calibrator, this will salvage your gas mileage after you put on a Cold Air Intake like the 63 series K&N that I put on. Be prepared to solder onto the wiring harness behind your glove box, price $212.00 shipped.
2. Cat back exhaust, three inch stainless steel, nice exhaust note, minimal gains but I think I will gain more when I put on the shorty headers and Y pipe. $800 or so.
3. Be realistic, I dropped about 1400-1500 plus the hours to put everything on and I still have a ways to go. I don't want to spin the tires and I would rarely ever need to go 110, but when I do it gets me there quicker than stock.
I will probably end up dropping around another grand+ to get the shorty headers and Y pipe bought and installed, at that point I will have gotten all of the available power out of that engine short of a SC. I put in the best plugs and change the oil every 3000K religiously with only synthetic oil. My philosophy is simple, make it as easy as possible for the engine to breathe and don't do anything that will possibly wreck it or piss off the ECU.
Bottom line my truck hauls ass for a 5000 lb, six cylinder truck. Yeah, it was worth it. To any Taco owners that don't think (therfore don't have), that the CAI and cat-back exhaust add HP and torque, I will GLADLY race you for pink slips!

Excellent post. I agree that some performance parts are just that.. Performance enhancing. They will cost you though. I did the K&N aircharger kit, and Ported and polished my throttle body and those alone I can feel a stronger pull 0-60 and stronger yet from 45-80. . It kinda runs out of poop after that. It is a heavy truck for about 250 crank Hp. Plus 32.5" AT tires are alot heavier and have more rolling resistance than radials. But Im happy with it. I plan on spending some $$ on a smoother Y-pipe, and larger diameter exhaust from there back. I want headers, but they are pretty expensive and will be much later in my Tacoma future. Have you looked into light weight flywheel, pulleys, or exchanging the fan running from the crank for an electric fan like flex-a-lite? All of these would in theory lessen the load on the engine, putting more power to the ground rather than getting those parts up and moving...? Anyhow, good honest write up

You get what you pay for.. Just dont buy any BS ebay power chips or special fluids that claim increases HP. I used to have a throttle body spacer on my scion tC, sounded cool, but no noticeable increase in power or mpg.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:53 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Kernwhole View Post
Octane is not a higher energy additive in gas like most people think. It is a hydrocarbon molecule with a higher ignition temperature than the others present in gasoline such as heptane, methane, etc. (methane might not be there but its on of the few "thanes" I can think of at the moment.) Anyway, higher octane fuels have higher auto ignition temps than normal unleaded allowing you to run higher levels of compression or boost before you get auto ignition (pinging). Auto ignition being when the fuel air mixture detonates before the spark plug fires. Hope this clears up the premium v.s. regular myth.
X2 there is less heat energy in hi test.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:57 PM   #49
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K&N filters do a shitty job of filtering and if you oil them you'll kill your MAF.
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:14 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irish020 View Post
I've run higher octane in my '05 Taco with 4.0 since I bought it...if you look closely at the statistics the engine was "detuned" in horsepower and torque after '05...We also have a '04 4-Runner w/ 4.0 that we run the higher octane in...
The motor was not detuned, it has been basically the same motor since 05. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) changed how the Hp and Torque was measured. The 245hp motor is still a 245hp motor, just measures differently at 236hp.
On a chassis dyno, they would measure the same.
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:16 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyT View Post
Im lookin for simple upgrades(cold air intake etc.) also what can i add to gain a good sound out of the engine
straight exhaust
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:48 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whippersnapper02 View Post
There is always a base map that is programmed into the factory ECU. From there the ECU can make the necessary adjustments it needs to run at peak efficiency since every engine will run slightly different. If there was no base map at all the engine would not run because the ECU wouldn't know what to do with any fuel.
There is always a base map, but without resetting your ECU by removing the positive lead from your battery for about ten minutes or resetting it with a scanning tool your computer will most likely not refer back to that map without something like ceaseless engine knock or overheating for a long period.
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:22 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper362 View Post
Me and my neighbor changing the blower belt on my car

Nice. I have wanted to put one on mine since they day I bought it and that was 2002. Oh, not the belt, but a blower, or preferably a Kenne Bell
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Old 04-11-2011, 04:54 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom0662 View Post
Nice. I have wanted to put one on mine since they day I bought it and that was 2002. Oh, not the belt, but a blower, or preferably a Kenne Bell
Belt changes on KB cars is much easier but still a bitch. Go turbo, but don't buy a kit. Buy a nice mig welder and all the mild steel piping you will need. Even if you outsource the turbo headers and you buy a Procharger intercooler, the cost of the kit will be less than half if you weld up the piping yourself, even less than that if you do a single turbo. Nice head units are less than $1000, you could even find like a GT42R for $900.
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:24 AM   #55
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seems to me acdronin sure spends a lot of time and money
trying to make a 4x4 go faster
however
he is really going to save money if his oil changes last 3000k miles
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:45 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 396tears View Post
seems to me acdronin sure spends a lot of time and money
trying to make a 4x4 go faster
however
he is really going to save money if his oil changes last 3000k miles
???
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:57 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acdronin View Post
To the OP, look, this is physics really, these trucks are heavy with an engine that IMHO is somewhat underpowered to begin with so yes, like you, I sought out more HP and torque. What I learned along the way is having to separate fact from fiction and marry it to reality. My truck with two dudes in it and a half-tank of gas comes in right about 5000lbs, that's ALOT of vehicle to get up and make boogie. So right there is reality, this ain't a sports car and it's not a V8, without an SC, it's not going to do 12 sec 1/4 miles. Then it's what do you want to do with that power? If the answer is to drive fast, then good luck when it comes to any sudden turns, get a sports car, you'll live longer. Me, I wanted to have enough on tap to get up to freeway speeds quickly, pass quickly and pull the occasional heavy trailer. The insurance is too fucking expensive to drive fast anyways. So after MUCH research and having run across a few bogus claims along the way, here's what I did, it's still a work in progress but so far it's made DEFINITE improvements:
1. URD MAF Calibrator, this will salvage your gas mileage after you put on a Cold Air Intake like the 63 series K&N that I put on. Be prepared to solder onto the wiring harness behind your glove box, price $212.00 shipped.
2. Cat back exhaust, three inch stainless steel, nice exhaust note, minimal gains but I think I will gain more when I put on the shorty headers and Y pipe. $800 or so.
3. Be realistic, I dropped about 1400-1500 plus the hours to put everything on and I still have a ways to go. I don't want to spin the tires and I would rarely ever need to go 110, but when I do it gets me there quicker than stock.
I will probably end up dropping around another grand+ to get the shorty headers and Y pipe bought and installed, at that point I will have gotten all of the available power out of that engine short of a SC. I put in the best plugs and change the oil every 3000K religiously with only synthetic oil. My philosophy is simple, make it as easy as possible for the engine to breathe and don't do anything that will possibly wreck it or piss off the ECU.
Bottom line my truck hauls ass for a 5000 lb, six cylinder truck. Yeah, it was worth it. To any Taco owners that don't think (therfore don't have), that the CAI and cat-back exhaust add HP and torque, I will GLADLY race you for pink slips!
so you went from an underpowered truck to a truck that "hauls ass" just by installing a intake filter, URD maf cal. and catback exhaust?
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:32 PM   #58
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[QUOTE=808matt;3016579]so you went from an underpowered truck to a truck that "hauls ass" just by installing a intake filter, URD maf cal. and catback exhaust?[/QUOT
For a 5000lb truck, yeah, it hauls ass when i want it to. I,ve got 285/75/17 snow tires on it so spinning tires is out of the question. The kicker was that I put the CAI and intake on first and watched my MPG go to hell. The MAF thingy corrected that, it's basically back to where it was prior to the CAI. It was the CAI that made the biggest difference, throttle response is much quicker, with the throttle wide open it just keeps pulling and pulling with no end in site.
It is my feeling that there really is going to be a little more on tap when I put on the shortys and Y tube, the stock shit has all these funky angles and there is a factory crimp in the Y pipe. Gas dynamics is not all that different from fluid dynamics which is what my job is. The smoother the pipe run, the less turbulence which means less back pressure. I've read a lot of posts from people here about how CAI's, exhausts and the MAF thingy is a waste of money, okay, everyone is entitled to their opinion, I go by what I know, the throttle response is quicker and the truck goes faster, period.
oh yeah, the exhaust note is nice, I jumped in my truck this morning at safeway, fired her up and set off a car alarm two spaces down from me this morning. Parking garages are fun too.
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Old 04-12-2011, 04:28 AM   #59
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396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed396tears is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Originally Posted by acdronin View Post
???
3000 x 1024(1k) = over 3 million miles between oil changes

LOL
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:59 AM   #60
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acdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shedacdronin is one of the sharper tools in the shed
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Originally Posted by 396tears View Post
3000 x 1024(1k) = over 3 million miles between oil changes

LOL
LOL ok I get it
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