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Old 03-13-2011, 09:16 PM   #1
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Fuse keeps blowing

about a month ago my reverse lights, reverse camera, blinkers, temp guage, speedometer, and more stopped working. brought it into the dealer and ended up being a blown fuse and a kinked wire. 2 days ago the fuse blew again so i replaced it, and tonight it also blew again. i replaced it but now i wanna call the dealer and bring my truck in again. i have lots of electrical mods but none of them are connected to the ignition fuse that keeps blowing... wtf
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:18 PM   #2
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sounds like a wire is touching metal somewhere and grounding itself, therefore blowing the fuse. check your wiring my friend
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detective_Dan View Post
sounds like a wire is touching metal somewhere and grounding itself, therefore blowing the fuse. check your wiring my friend
When i brought it in the first time he checked most of it... must have missed something or i effed up on something
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMazz365 View Post
When i brought it in the first time he checked most of it... must have missed something or i effed up on something
ya. everytime i take my truck to the dealer, i double check their work. its not that i dont trust the dealer, i dont trust anybody working on my truck but me really lol
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detective_Dan View Post
ya. everytime i take my truck to the dealer, i double check their work. its not that i dont trust the dealer, i dont trust anybody working on my truck but me really lol
yeah that sounds like good advise
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:50 PM   #6
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so, you got a cap or use a uhaul or wire your own hitch?

I fried a bunch of stuff when I shut the tailgate on my cap wires. I see a lot of people that wired their own hitch (i figure maybe aftermarket tails) and their reverse lights blink, radio lights don't work.. whatever. They crossed the streams.
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:55 PM   #7
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Yea it sounds like something is grounding out...If you keep having the problem take it to a car audio shop. They usually know more about electronics then mechanics do. They'll be able to trouble shoot it for you.
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:06 AM   #8
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Disconnect the battery and run a continuity check between the 'kinked wire' the dealer fixed and ground. Sounds like it's the same wire if the same fuse keeps blowing.
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detective_Dan View Post
ya. everytime i take my truck to the dealer, i double check their work. its not that i dont trust the dealer, i dont trust anybody working on my truck but me really lol
X10 Cats in the back of dealerships do not make much $ and are pushed like shit to get to next job. ( + the 2up )
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:54 PM   #10
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yeah this sucks ive gone through 6 fuses in the past 3 days and its not like a certain thing happens when it blows. i have a wig wag systems in my rear reverse lights for the fire dept. it splits the wire and then reconnects it. do you think that when i put it in reverse theres something there thatll cause it ?
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Old 03-14-2011, 06:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMazz365 View Post
about a month ago my reverse lights, reverse camera, blinkers, temp guage, speedometer, and more stopped working. brought it into the dealer and ended up being a blown fuse and a kinked wire. 2 days ago the fuse blew again so i replaced it, and tonight it also blew again. i replaced it but now i wanna call the dealer and bring my truck in again. i have lots of electrical mods but none of them are connected to the ignition fuse that keeps blowing... wtf
do you have a kid? the fuse from my radio kept blowing up too. I took my 4 year old to the car wash, and while i was wahing it he was inside the truck sticking quarters in my CD changer. something to check.
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Old 03-14-2011, 06:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsung View Post
do you have a kid? the fuse from my radio kept blowing up too. I took my 4 year old to the car wash, and while i was wahing it he was inside the truck sticking quarters in my CD changer. something to check.
hahaha i hope i dont have a kid im 18 and that would mean my gf is not telling me something lol
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:33 AM   #13
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If there are any electrical MODS that you can disconnect to take the truck back to stock, I would disconnect those items and see if the fuse blows. If it does not blow the fuse, then you have an overload due to the add-ons of the mods.
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:54 AM   #14
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If you have a V-ohmmeter you can set it on 20 ohms, stick one probe in the load side of the fuse block, and clamp the other one to ground. If it indicates 0 ohms, you have a dead short, which I strongly doubt (fuses are there to blow in that event rather than allowing the excess current to cause a fire). But make sure you wiggle the harness around a little to see if the reading changes drastically.
It sounds like you have a power lead wire that's abraded against something causing an intermittent short, as when the truck is moving and the wire is bouncing however slightly.
OTHERWISE..... have a tech or electrician show you how to hook the meter in series with the load wire, set it on amps (200 amp setting should do it), and check the real load on the circuit. it has to be substantially less than the rating of the fuse, such as 16 amps on a 20 amp fuse- or the fuse may open over a longer term.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wattapunk View Post
If there are any electrical MODS that you can disconnect to take the truck back to stock, I would disconnect those items and see if the fuse blows. If it does not blow the fuse, then you have an overload due to the add-ons of the mods.
I'll do that bec I have a main shut off to all my mods. Now say it doesn't blow and I have a overload of electrical mods, what would I do
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMazz365 View Post
I'll do that bec I have a main shut off to all my mods. Now say it doesn't blow and I have a overload of electrical mods, what would I do
Go back to my post, once on each added circuit. I forgot to mention the ignition should be off when you start this testing.

On second thought, how bout you list the mods you've made...? It's possible you're simply overloading the circuit.
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimonback View Post
Go back to my post, once on each added circuit. I forgot to mention the ignition should be off when you start this testing.

On second thought, how bout you list the mods you've made...? It's possible you're simply overloading the circuit.
I have 6inch "driving lights" behind my grille, emergency blue lights in my grille, a fire dept wig wag system(hooked up to my reverse lights and when on alternates them to blink)- think its the problem-, an added on 3 car plug, and thats all thats hooked up to my battery i think. everything else is car plugs
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:11 AM   #18
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Driving lights should be on their own circuit with a relay (guessing 55 watts each, x2=110 watts; divided by 12 volts=9.17 amps); Emergency blue lights may need to be hooked up separately; and the wig- wag (???) electronics may be bad. But if they're all coming off the battery, that's most likely not taking down your circuit.
If you're certain you haven't tapped into the instrument wiring harness with any mod, I'd start the V-ohmmeter testing, making certain you're moving that harness while the meter's hooked up. If a wire is laying against or close to a grounded metal surface, the motion of the truck while underway may have abraded the insulation causing a ground fault.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:15 PM   #19
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Alright i took out the wig wag set and they havnt blown yet. i talked to a toyota tech that i know and he said bec the fuse is reading that one wire has 2 power sources going into it, the battery And the power source to the reverse lights. thanks everyone for you help
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