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Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

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Old 07-19-2011, 12:46 PM   #21
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I looked at your pics and sad DAMN how do you have so much rust on a 09, then I realized it was dirt. HAHA
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:47 PM   #22
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Thanks for the writeup, and good pics! I've been meaning to do this to mine, but had trouble finding a "how-to" I'm not the most mechanically inclined, so this helps a lot

Thanks man.
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:51 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBToyota View Post
I looked at your pics and sad DAMN how do you have so much rust on a 09, then I realized it was dirt. HAHA
Yeah... I changed all my diff fluid soon after the North AL mod meet, because it was nearly time (28,000 miles), we got into some mud, I wanted to make sure my rear diff didn't drown. Still a bit of dirt leftover, obviously. But if it isn't dirty you aren't using it!

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Originally Posted by MxRacer190 View Post
Thanks for the writeup, and good pics! I've been meaning to do this to mine, but had trouble finding a "how-to" I'm not the most mechanically inclined, so this helps a lot

Thanks man.
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Originally Posted by JimT View Post
It was a miserable failure. First, I found I still had dirt and rocks sitting on top of one of the rear skidplate screws (in the frame crossmember). It had rusted so bad that when I finally got it out, the last 3-4 threads were mashed flat. I'm hoping the threaded hole is not damaged, I may have to chase the threads with a tap. Once I finally got the skidplate off, the fill plug came loose pretty easily. The drain plug refused to come loose with a 10" bar though. After trying repeatedly, I finally went and got my 18" bar and 1/2-3/8 adapter. On my first try, the tip of my hex socket snapped off!
.
Try some PB Blaster next time (and let it sit overnight.) Like I said in the writeup, I've begun to hit any bolt I'm going to touch on something the night before with a good dose of the stuff, and I have way fewer headaches wrenching on my truck
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspadaro View Post
Yeah... I changed all my diff fluid soon after the North AL mod meet, because it was nearly time (28,000 miles), we got into some mud, I wanted to make sure my rear diff didn't drown. Still a bit of dirt leftover, obviously. But if it isn't dirty you aren't using it!



Gimmeh rep if you liked it!



Try some PB Blaster next time (and let it sit overnight.) Like I said in the writeup, I've begun to hit any bolt I'm going to touch on something the night before with a good dose of the stuff, and I have way fewer headaches wrenching on my truck
ten four
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:00 PM   #25
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Sub'd - Nice writeup.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:03 PM   #26
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Vote for sticky.
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Old 07-21-2011, 04:39 AM   #27
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Update

I acquired two new 10mm hex sockets, one Kobalt and one Craftsman. The Kobalt 10 mm is full size all the way into the socket, but still 3/8 drive. Went out two nights ago and used the 10" bar and it came loose without too much of a fight. I'm guessing the combination of WD-40 soaking for a day or two and it being hot from being driven home helped. The head of the drain plug had rusted to the counterbore it sits in and I believe that's why it was stuck.

I did end up having to run a tap through the skid plate mounting hole. I'm going to get some stainless screws tonight to replace the originals with.
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:33 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimT View Post
I acquired two new 10mm hex sockets, one Kobalt and one Craftsman. The Kobalt 10 mm is full size all the way into the socket, but still 3/8 drive. Went out two nights ago and used the 10" bar and it came loose without too much of a fight. I'm guessing the combination of WD-40 soaking for a day or two and it being hot from being driven home helped. The head of the drain plug had rusted to the counterbore it sits in and I believe that's why it was stuck.

I did end up having to run a tap through the skid plate mounting hole. I'm going to get some stainless screws tonight to replace the originals with.
Yikes, you had a crazy amount of rust for a 3-4 year old truck. Glad you got it worked out.

Ah, you're in Indiana. Down here we don't have salt (or much snow)
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Old 09-29-2011, 03:15 AM   #29
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I want to do my front differential this weekend, is it going to be a pain to loosen up the bolts? i dont have a torque wrench, do i really need to torque it to the specs, i mean, I'm going to tighten the best that I could.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:42 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkfeeney View Post
I want to do my front differential this weekend, is it going to be a pain to loosen up the bolts? i dont have a torque wrench, do i really need to torque it to the specs, i mean, I'm going to tighten the best that I could.
I'm not going to recommend not using a torque wrench.

However, these bolts are like your oil pan drain plug, in that they just have to be tight enough to not leak. Torque wrench actually keeps you from overtightening, at least on the transfer case and front diff fill plug (they're only 27-29 lb-ft)... don't put too much pressure on it. I mean, as long as it doesn't leak. Don't go totally apeshit.

Also, just so I can edit this post 5 times: Harbor freight has a torque wrench that is probably "good enough" for like $15.

Just hit the bolts with pb blaster if you have it, wd-40 if you don't. Soak them really good the night before. It'll help oodles getting them loose.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:44 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkfeeney View Post
I want to do my front differential this weekend, is it going to be a pain to loosen up the bolts? i dont have a torque wrench, do i really need to torque it to the specs, i mean, I'm going to tighten the best that I could.
Personally I have never had issues with getting bolts off so I would just give it a try. You don't have to use a torque wrench. You need to understand the basics of tightening these drain and fill plugs though. Basically you want them tight, but not too tight. The reason for this is that the metal you are screwing the plugs into is softer than the bolt itself so if you tighten too much you will strip the hole in the diff. This is not good! I have a torque wrench but have never used it for stuff like this. As you tighten the bolt stop when it gets tight, then give it a slight nudge tighter. Remember that you can get a lot of torque from a 3/4 inch ratchet so slide your hand up the ratchet (was going to say shaft but for obvious reasons decided not to) closer to the head where the socket attaches--this will give you less torque for the final nudge and thus you won't overtighten. Good luck with it. BTW, I used royal purple in my tcase and it got rid of the "bump" feeling I had after coming to a stop and then taking my foot off the brake. It also made the truck feel much smoother. I would recommend that fluid for the tcase and redline 75-85 for the diffs.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:52 AM   #32
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super sub'd to this cause i super need to do all three.
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:51 AM   #33
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SUB'D for later use. Good job!
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:28 PM   #34
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i got off work tomorrow, so i'm going to work on that...I guess the copper washer for the drain side, and and the regular washer for the fill side??
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:35 PM   #35
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I just did my 60K service last week. Kragen O'Reilly's was out of Mobile 1 so I bought Royal Purple at $18 a freakin quart!!!!

That's true that the front diff oil is a bit milky.

I didn't need to remove the skid plate to get to my front diff drain/fill plugs.

Great write up!
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:08 AM   #36
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:32 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkfeeney View Post
i got off work tomorrow, so i'm going to work on that...I guess the copper washer for the drain side, and and the regular washer for the fill side??
Thats how mine was. You only need to buy the copper crush washers..which I beleieve there were only two of...front and rear diff drain. The silver washers in the fill plugs and both plugs on tcase are fine to reuse.
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:18 PM   #38
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epic failure today... I can't unscrew all 4 bolts bolts... 2 were stuck, and the drain and full plug were all rusted, if i go tot toyota,,it will cost around $120!! why does it have to rust?!?!?
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:50 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkfeeney View Post
epic failure today... I can't unscrew all 4 bolts bolts... 2 were stuck, and the drain and full plug were all rusted, if i go tot toyota,,it will cost around $120!! why does it have to rust?!?!?
You soaked it with PB Blaster?
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