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Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by jspadaro, Mar 24, 2011.

  1. Jul 25, 2014 at 12:21 PM
    #401
    Agent Smith

    Agent Smith Always outnumbered, never outgunned

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    Brake fluid flush if you want to cover all the bases. Coolant as well. Those are on a much less frequent basis than say oil changes. We are talking years/high miles.

    Edit: just noticed the year and miles on your rig, you should probably do those fluids now
     
  2. Jul 25, 2014 at 12:47 PM
    #402
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    at 100,xxx miles U might consider belts - i have a 2.7 so not sure what belts you have but couldn't hurt.
     
  3. Jul 25, 2014 at 12:50 PM
    #403
    Chopper678

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    What about transmission flush? I heard it is recommended but I hear you need special equipment to do that. As for the brake flush, I just looked it up on Gadget online and it seems to be beyond my mechanical measure.

    Change the coolant or flush it?
     
  4. Jul 25, 2014 at 12:51 PM
    #404
    Chopper678

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    Like a new timing belt? What all belts do I need to change? If you give me the names I will research them
     
  5. Jul 25, 2014 at 1:00 PM
    #405
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    If you can turn a wrench and have someone that can push a brake puddle you can change brake fluid. As I said I don't have a 6 but I'm sure there is a belt for the fan and alternator with 100,xxx miles - my 2.7 has a timing chain so I'm in the clear but I think the 6 has a belt. That is a thread on auto trans here somewhere. Do a search. I'll post a link if I run across it.
     
  6. Jul 25, 2014 at 1:08 PM
    #406
    Chopper678

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    Well a change yes, but isn't a flush more complicated?

    As for the belts, why would information on the belts be in a transmission thread?
     
  7. Jul 25, 2014 at 1:13 PM
    #407
    george3

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    Should have proof read my answer - should be "There" is a thread on auto trans here somewhere not "that" - so there is a thread on trans - has nothing to do with belts.
     
  8. Jul 25, 2014 at 1:17 PM
    #408
    Chopper678

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    Okay, that is what I was thinking. Thanks. I have been searching a lot and have found limited results. I went to Gadget's page and a page of Chris4x4s information. Other than that, mainly this thread. Is a transmission flush/brake flush doable alone with no special tools?
     
  9. Jul 25, 2014 at 2:00 PM
    #409
    jlleiber

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    Can't comment on the brake flush, but I did the transmission flush by myself, no special tools following this write-up. It's pretty intimidating at first read, but if you want to do a full flush then this is how it's done.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/68462-diy-full-flush-automatic-transmission.html
     
  10. Jul 25, 2014 at 2:19 PM
    #410
    Chopper678

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    Thank you!
    Edit: I have been reading not to flush your transmission after 100K because it can be harmful and its best just to keep changing fluid... is this true?
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2014
  11. Jul 25, 2014 at 2:21 PM
    #411
    george3

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  12. Jul 25, 2014 at 2:31 PM
    #412
    george3

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  13. Jul 25, 2014 at 2:38 PM
    #413
    Chopper678

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    Thanks you guys. I will have my nose in that for a while. The flush doesn't look very hard at all, much easier than I've heard it described. Any advice on what fluids to use? I don't mind paying extra for the quality products, I want the best for my truck. I am by default set on on Mobil 1 full synthetic everything, but I'm not sure if they make diff fluid... Haven't researched that one yet.
     
  14. Jul 25, 2014 at 4:18 PM
    #414
    Agent Smith

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    Our 4 liter V-6 has a timing chain, so no worries there. While flushing your brake fluid can be a bitch, it is really simple. Some guys like to do a one person bleed (search for that one) but I'm used to a two person set up.

    One person pumps the pedal (truck off) until it builds pressure and holds the brake pedal down while you open the bleeder screw. Then you close the bleeder screw while the pedal is still pushed down, then start the process over. You basically keep doing this until the master cylinder is ALMOST empty of the old fluid. If you start sucking air through the line, well that's bad with ABS. Top off MC with fresh fluid and keep flushing each line until nice clean fluid comes out. I went from pass rear, then drivers rear to pass front to drivers front wheel.
     
  15. Jul 25, 2014 at 5:46 PM
    #415
    Chopper678

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    If the I4s and V6s have timing chains... Why are people saying to change the belt? Are there any other belts that need to be changed while I'm at it? And how can you know to stop before getting air in the line? Thanks for your help
     
  16. Jul 25, 2014 at 8:10 PM
    #416
    Agent Smith

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    I'm assuming they mean the serpentine (fan) belt. You'll have to keep getting out from under the truck to check the fluid level of the brake fluid. A little should be left before the intake hole at the bottom of the MC is exposed to air. In other words, the hole at the bottom should always be covered by a layer of fluid and not allowed to suck air through the ABS module. In the pre-ABS days, it was no problem, you just had to restart the whole bleeding process over until the air bubbles were purged. With the ABS, the dealer would have to cycle the module to purge the air entrained inside it.
     
  17. Jul 25, 2014 at 8:36 PM
    #417
    slcsez2000

    slcsez2000 Well-Known Member

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  18. Jul 25, 2014 at 9:41 PM
    #418
    Chopper678

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    Sounds like I won't do a flush then. Can someone help me decide whether or not to flush? By reading TW alone I would do it... But my parents (They technically own the truck, I am 1 year into college. I pay for all maintenance now) are dead set against it. They are telling me everyone they know who has done a flush has had transmission problems soon after and that is a bill I do not want.
     
  19. Jul 26, 2014 at 6:13 AM
    #419
    randyg123

    randyg123 Well-Known Member

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    I have heard conflicting info on flushing transmissions. Dealers here and some shops i have talked to won't touch them if they haven't been flushed within a certain number of miles (I think 70k). More than that and they say the risk becomes too high that subsequent problems may occur. They say crud builds up in the tranny and power-flushing it might get some of that into a valve or something and clog it or make it stick. At a certian mileage, the risks become too high for them to want to do the job. When taking my vehicles (I have had five Toyotas) in for their second tranny flushes, no-one would do it unless I could prove I had the first one done because the current mileage would be past their 'safe' point. Then I have heard other people say that if the right equipment is used, this is not a problem. I can't comment on that because it is only what I have heard. I would 'assume' that means a reputable shop that specializes in trannies should have the best type of flushing equipment. Better than the dealers and non-specialized repair shops. Draining and refilling in the driveway probably doesn't have this problem but it only exchanges a fraction of the fluid. My $0.02
     
  20. Jul 26, 2014 at 6:50 AM
    #420
    slcsez2000

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    Anyone know if I ca use this oil for my 2012 it doesn't call for the limited slip additive but I just noticed this on the bottle.
    The mobile one synthetic gear lubricant LS with limited slip modifier included
     
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