Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

You can drain and fill the same amount that comes out every 15,000 - mathematically it works out.

 

If I simply drain the fluid and refill it, will it be just as risky as a flush? Because I just bought 6 qts of Mobil ATF... and I don't want to flush if it will cost me my transmission. Is there a way to eliminate the problem and get that gunk out?

 

The Limited Slip additive is needed for the 2005-2008 Sport TRDs. The rest of us with factory differentials don't have to have it, and it doesn't hurt anything if it is in it for our trucks.

Speed Freek replaced my transfer case and both differential fluids. All got Mobil One (with the LSD additive, even though my Taco has open differentials). 75-90 in the front diff and transfer case, and 75-140 in the rear. His logic was the rear is constantly working, and has the most load applied to it, so use the stronger fluid in the rear diff. That was 2 years and 27,000 miles ago... all is well.

 

The flushing forces ATF thru the trans and can force shite into the valves that's why it's not recommended if there is mileage on the trans and it was never done. If you just dump and fill there is no force and no problem but you are taking a % of old tired fluid out and putting a % of new fluid with new additives in. If you don't know the history of the truck I would do the dump and fill 2 be safe.

 

I think I'll just have it done professionally so they can do the full process of putting in a new pan... as much as it pains me to not DIY.

I don't want to risk the transmission on my limited income.

 

I'm a little confused - you ask for all kinds of advise and then U R going to pay someone to do it - why do you need a new pan ? I must have missed that one.

 

Well I have been researching and asking for advice because I wanted to give my truck a full tune up, including transmission flush. However, since my truck has gone 100,xxx miles and as far as I know, the transmission has never been maintenance, I'm afraid I could jack up my transmission if I flush it. When I was just about ready to do it myself, I learned about the metal shards that could harm the transmission. The advice not to do the flush was taken from Gadgets website. Unless I am mistaken (possible, I am not experienced with transmissions) I think the only way to service my transmission is to do a complete flush which includes the new pan and I'm assuming, removal of the dangerous shards. If I can get a shop to flush it and provide me with some sort of warranty/protection, I will let them do it because I cant do anything that may cause my transmission to fail.

Does that make more sense?

I have not been able to get a solid answer anywhere as to whether or not a simple fluid change would cause risk. My parents are advising me to just not touch the transmission at all and I'm not sure which path is the right one.

 

Since you took the time to give such a lengthy answer I'll answer you - My wife has a Honda - they are bullet proof except for the trans this is what I do and why I do it - "The flushing forces ATF thru the trans and can force shite into the valves that's why it's not recommended if there is mileage on the trans and it was never done. If you just dump and fill there is no force and no problem but you are taking a % of old tired fluid out and putting a % of new fluid with new additives in. If you don't know the history of the truck I would do the dump and fill 2 be safe." My Tacoma is a stick and a 2.7 so I don't know about the Tacoma auto but if it has a drain plug you can drain it - if it has a dip stick you can fill it - if the drain plug has a magnet the magnet will attract the metal shavings and you just wipe them off - Again - if you don't know the history of the truck I would NOT DO OR HAVE A POWER FLUSH DONE PERIOD.

 

Well, thanks. After re-reading your previous posts I understand what you are suggesting- the manual flush, right? Where you disconnect the lines and let it all flow out, using about 12 qts? I guess I wasn't quite sure what you meant by "dump and fill"

Mine doesn't have a dipstick, just the fill plug. Thanks for the advice, I'll be doing the manual no-power flush. To be on the same page, this is the DIY we are talking about that is safe, correct?

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/68462-diy-full-flush-automatic-transmission.html

If THIS is the one you are saying is safe, I will be performing this myself. Lastly, is there any way to get all of the detriment out? I know you side to wipe off the magnet but I mean all of it.

 

That looks like a excellent write up. I would leave myself plenty of time since U R a virgin on this. I have no experience with the Tacoma automatic. I just do the first few steps on my wife's Honda - drain plug out - 3 qts dumped - 3 new qts in. I never disconnect the trans lines so I have not advise on that. I don't have any suggestion on "detriment" This is what I do. http://www.diymyhonda.com/accord/atf-drain-and-fill/
I just do it more often.

 

yeah I just did my wifes honda civic trans fluid a bit ago. drained it and filled 2.25 qt out/in

 

I do it every 15,000 or so - just did it at 57,744

 

Ah, see, I did misunderstand you. By dump you meant a 3qt oil change, not a manual no-power flush. Gotcha.
Sorry for seeming to neglect your advice, its just the more my parents tell me not to touch it the less confident I am that I won't destroy it.

 

Wow 15,000 they only call for it every 30,000.

 

Sent you a PM - didn't think I should have a full Honda Trans discussion on TW.

 

My front was pretty black at 20,000. If you regularly drive through water like in your sig pic, I'd change it more often than 30,000.

 

I changed all of mine yesterday at 30,400and honestly they were all pretty clean. Almost clear with a slight color, I was very surprised.
But I changed them anyway and will actually prob go longer between intervals.

 

That's cool. Like I said, my front was pretty nasty at 20k, not sure why. The other 2 were still like new though. It's relatively cheap, not sure I'd push the intervals too much. New differentials would cost a lost more.

 

Changed all of mine at 32k. Front and rear were nasty, but the t case looked like brand new oil. Is that normal? I would have thought the t case would have been a little dirty.

 

Just don't forget to tighten up that screw, I know all about that...