2008 toyota tacoma brake issue

Ok wiull do......finally someone sees eye to eye with me on this....i'm not talking about the people on here. i'm talking about the two mechanics i mentioned it to and they swear up and down it was fine. i'm gonna do thios and see what happens. sad enbough my only problem is finding dirt roads where i live lol


Do i need to call the dealer to get this "custom line" or can this shape be bent fairly easily

 

your wheel bearings, if its starting to go sometimes you wont hear it but the rotor will push aganist the caliper piston and it will make the pedal go to the floor it happened to me

 

your salvation is in my signature
\/\/\/

 

For 09+ trucks - probably because they all have VSC

His truck is 08 reg cab so I am pretty sure he does not need to have key on or engine running since he does not have VSC unless he found some odd ball truck with VSC in it.

 

NO VSC in my truck.....just reg brakes....so i will replace the line, and bleed the bakes with the truck OFF. the go find dirt, kick in the abs a couple of times (or a slick road lol). then bleed again.

i will def let you guys know of the result.

 

You make a good point, and to the OP: did you torque the axle nut to spec? Are the caliper bolts properly tightened?

Brakes were fine before? And you did nothing with the rear brakes? Rear shoes being out-of-adjustment will do the same thing.

 

Hello,

didnt touch the rear brakes. i knwo what you are talking about witht the drums but those should be fine.

As far as tightening to specs..... the axle nut gets tightened up until the pin hole is exposed, which is what i did. and the caliper nuts were def tight, but it never hurts to double check. lol

in case people are wondering, I just want to get it out there that i'm not a complete newb working on vehicles. i've always changed brakes myself, changed suspensions systems, lift kits, CV's Etc. the brake line was my first thought and the time and a partner are the only things that have been holing me up from chaning them. tonight it will be completed. I even ordered the brake line from the dealer so i dont even have to deal with bending it them same. for and extra $2, i thought it was worth it lol.

Steve, thanks for the insight on the wheel bearing. if changing the line doesn't work, that will be my next step.

 

PROBLEM SOLVEDDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANK GOODNESS!!!!!!!!!!

I replaced the line and bled the system...but also found out the axle nut needed about 3/4 of a turn still too. there was a little play in the spindle. tightened it up and everything is back to normal thank you veryone for all your help. greatly appreciated!!!

 

Glad you got it fixed. Sounds like that loose axle nut was the main culprit with the bent line in there to cause confusion. You did torque the axle nut right? The torque spec is 174 ft-lbs, then a wee bit more if needed to line up the cotter pin, not just 'till you can put the cotter pin in. Sorry if it seems like I'm beating a dead horse here, but it's kinda important to have that part right.

 

i did not torque it. at about that 3/4 turn point, the nut did not move when hitting it with the impact gun. i am going to chekc the torqu when i get home tonight.

Let me ask a question though. what happens if the axle nut is too tight? i drove to work today (about 35 miles away) and i hit some traffic. when i went to slow down, i felt like thhere was an odd noise coming from the front (nothing major just a little different.) then when i went to take off, i fely like it was thumping (again very slightly but i'm paranoid right now.) I could just be listening to closely since my M/t Terrain tires are pretty much bald at this point and that could be the reason, but i figured i'm ask. my guess is i have to lossen it slightly but someone please enlighten me lol.

 

The wheel bearing preload is set by a non-adjustable spacer built into the bearing, and the force that holds the bearing cones against the spacer is provided by the axle nut. Mild overtightening will not give any symptoms, exteme over-torqueing could crush the spacer or even distort the bearing cones and cause bearing failure, but under-torquing would allow excessive wheel bearing play. I'd back that nut off, torque it to spec, jack up that wheel and check for wheel bearing play or roughness. If it seems OK, just monitor it to make sure all is good.

 

Thanks for the advice. So what i did yesterday was take the wheel off again and took a glace at the axle nut. I noticed that it was exactly two threads after the pinhole. I backed it off a little and retightened with a torque wrench to 175 ft lbs. when examining again, i noticed that now it was only one frull thread after the pinhole. Maybe its not a huge deal. My thoughts were maybe before it was around 200 ft lbs of torque. But maybe that was enought to stretch the axle more than it needed it to be.

But needless to say it solved my problem. this morning on the highway i slowed down when i hit traffic and the noise or thump wasnt nearly as bad. (i can't say its completely gone because of the uneven bald mud terrains.

But you know how your truck drives and when it feels different. and i can honestly say that after a week of headaches and aggrivation, i can say it feels normal again. lol (of course...it could of been in my head the whole time but i honestly dont think so.)


Side question. can it honestly be that specific that being tightened one whole thread would make that much of a difference? i know when some nuts have to be tightened the need to be accurate....but really that dead on?

i've owned an 88 and 92 toyota pickup and never...EVER ran into a problem like this with tightening specs. Guess the first work i've done on the truck myself (other than oil changes) will always be one to remember lol.

 

It's not likely you'd be able to tell the difference between 200ish ft-lb and 175, other than perhaps slightly reduced bearing life, and a chance of stripped threads on the axle, which didn't happen to you. I'm thinking the niose may have been in your head as you say, if it doesn't get worse, or goes away when you get new rubber, you'll know for sure.