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Diff Breather Mod for Dummies (Pics)

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Old 06-25-2009, 08:11 PM   #41
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I was told this once but kinda forgot. how i remeber it was they(infamous they) said the transfer and trans was routed up behind th eengine by the firewall but it was low and a pita to get to. the front dif was routed near the battery i believe they said..i'm going to take a look at my posts and see if i can track this down.

as for keeping the breather by fittings you meant the ones that will link the extension hose right? because if they are already there like in those pics here, then all i should have to do is extend the hose...all i would need is some hose and hoseclamps in my hand i would think? the rear diff however is just sticking out of the houseing so you would obviously need the breather and union.

edit: found it
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IIRC the front diff tanny and transfer case are already extended to the engine bay

all you really have to do is extent the rear diff breather, most extend to the gas door.

the fuse box is pretty safe already should be fine unless you're realllllly swimming

getting a snorkel would be adviseable depending on how deep you're talking
Quote:
Those are actually the front diff and ADD (Automatic Disconnecting Differential) breathers in the engine bay. Transmission, transfer case and rear diff are not extended and should be.
so those 2 are the front diff and ADD. i wonder if the tranny and trans breathers are set up like the rear diff? or are they actually extended a bit.
i take it now that there is 4 in the front.
1.front diff
2.ADD
3.Tranny
4.Transfer Case
Am I wrong? someone teach me
what the hell is this 3rd one then? he has an 06.
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Yes I think you are right: Here is a picture of a trans breather that has been extended to just behind the block.





Here is another picture of two front breather I found on the driver's side fender.


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Old 06-25-2009, 08:22 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjbonner View Post

as for keeping the breather by fittings you meant the ones that will link the extension hose right? because if they are already there like in those pics here, then all i should have to do is extend the hose...all i would need is some hose and hoseclamps in my hand i would think? the rear diff however is just sticking out of the houseing so you would obviously need the breather and union.

Diffs that are already relocated should just need additional line if you want to move them further....anything that is still on the diff/case itself is going to need a new union to go in-situ.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:29 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjbonner View Post
roger did you look at my edit? weigh in on that please
Yeah I noted those breathers on inspection when taking delivery of my '09. I knew one was the front diff, haven't had a chance to look into the others yet (had the truck for a couple busy days before heading right back to the dealer to get the rear leaf TSB out of the way early) and see what they connect to.

Supposed to get the truck back tomorrow or Sat at the latest, going to spend some time this weekend eyeballing breathers that can/need to be relocated. Will report back when I have some answers.

Edit: And my name's not Roger
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:32 PM   #45
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cool maybe i'll do the same this weekend.
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Edit: And my name's not Roger
its funny how verbal habits will happen even when youre typing
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:11 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Knight View Post
Would it matter much if I relocated to the large cubby hole in the drivers side of the bed? Just seems like an easier place to get to. How does the little cubby pop out? is that 3m type tape i see in neubs OP?
I saw somewhere where a Tacoma owner ran the diff breather line to the rear driver's side storage box in the bed of the truck and bolted the breather fitting near the top of the box to keep the water out. I think you have lots of options in doing this. The bed cubby comes out by pulling the box up and then out. Yes, It is held in place by 3M tape but sits in a groove so the 3M tape is not the only mechanism keeping the pocket from falling out. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:57 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neubs View Post
Thanks, I know this has been covered before, but I just wanted to post something that will instill confidence in those wanting to do this but were wary of their mechanical abilities. I know pics help a lot so I tried to document the whole thing the best I could.

Are those wires coming from the front of your differential for an e-locker? Can you tell I don't have one if I don't even know what it looks like?

Thanks
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:07 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neubs View Post
I saw somewhere where a Tacoma owner ran the diff breather line to the rear driver's side storage box in the bed of the truck and bolted the breather fitting near the top of the box to keep the water out. I think you have lots of options in doing this. The bed cubby comes out by pulling the box up and then out. Yes, It is held in place by 3M tape but sits in a groove so the 3M tape is not the only mechanism keeping the pocket from falling out. Hope this helps.
yep thats what I was looking for. Thanks neubs
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:31 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ese Loco View Post
if you have an e-locker, do you also need to extend its breather? does it have one?

As I understand it, the e-locker is an electronic locking pin that takes the rear diff from "open" to "closed"...the equipment is electronic, and the pin itself is in the diff. No add'l breather req'd.
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:48 PM   #52
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thread revival! dumb ?, are the unioin and braether part #'s the same for a first gen? also did anyone order them from toyotaparts4u.com?
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:24 PM   #53
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A little late but I think the part is the same. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Here is another link:

http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...r/breather.htm

Yup it looks like the same part work for 1st generations too. Here is a link:

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ead.php?t=8227

Post number 9 on the referenced thread notes:

Parts/Materials Needed:
1 Toyota part number 90404-51026 Listed as a "Union" at a cost of $4.19 in January of 2002.
8 feet of 1/4" rubber fuel line
2 small hose clamps
A few nylon wire (zip) ties
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Old 11-03-2009, 05:42 AM   #54
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This will be my next mod...hopefully will complete this weekend.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:26 AM   #55
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great job,i wished i would have seen this before i did mine...........i mounted mine in the cowl of my evinrude.
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:53 PM   #56
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Just did the mod.

Also changed the dif while I was at it.
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Old 11-13-2009, 11:08 AM   #57
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post




Just did the mod.

Also changed the dif while I was at it.

Do you have any slack on the line? It looks pulled tight. First time off road its going to pull apart or break something
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:43 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akwagon View Post
Do you have any slack on the line? It looks pulled tight. First time off road its going to pull apart or break something
Was thinking the exact same thing....you want some bend, flex in that line.

Doesn't have to be a ton, because the pumpkin is pretty much the axis of side <--> side articulation, but you'd want to allow for at least six inches of travel for the diff.

It's hard to see in this photo, but off to the left there's a fair amount of slack hose to allow axle travel:

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Old 11-15-2009, 10:24 AM   #59
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Question

Did you photoshop the tube to make it yellow and stand out or can you buy it like that anywhere ?

[
Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
Was thinking the exact same thing....you want some bend, flex in that line.

Doesn't have to be a ton, because the pumpkin is pretty much the axis of side <--> side articulation, but you'd want to allow for at least six inches of travel for the diff.

It's hard to see in this photo, but off to the left there's a fair amount of slack hose to allow axle travel:

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Old 11-15-2009, 11:30 AM   #60
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It's 3/8" ID 5/8" OD high pressure hosing. You can get it at your local hardware/home improvement store. Lowes happened to have stock only in yellow.

The big advantage is it's almost impossible to kink or collapse, so you can route it through a cutout in the frame like I did to keep the routing clean without having to worry about whether or not it will get shifted and kinked closed during enthusiastic driving.
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