Transmission Flat belly Skid + All-Pro IFS Skid

Have an IFS skid from All-Pro and want to span the gap from the IFS skid to the cross member? I do and want to get rid of that dreaded cross member rock catcher.


Here is my solution on paper:

Version 1


Version 2 (more cross member coverage = a little $pricier$)


It will utilize the existing bolt holes on back of the IFS skid. I also added two additional bolt holes. The back of the transmission skid will be bolted to the cross member utilizing the existing cross member holes. It will be made of 3/16" steel. I will also weld a center member down the middle to stiffen it up.

I made up the skid with thick chip board for a test fit. Good fit!


Cut and bent skid (Version 1):


Cut and bent skid (Version 2):


Grade 8 material needed:
Version 1 & Version 2 (4) 7/16" X 1" bolts
Version 1 : (2) 7/16" x 2" bolts or Version 2: (2) 1/2"x3 1/2" bolts
Version 1: (6) 7/16" nuts or Version 2: (4) 7/16" and (2) 1/2" nuts
Version 1: (10) 7/16" standard washers or Version 2: (8) 7/16" and (4) 1/2" washers
Version 1: (2) 7/16" x 1 1/4"od (1/8" thick) washers

If you opt for the center support, have the sheet metal shop weld you a piece of 3/16"x1"x16" in the middle of the skid as shown.

Step 1:
Bolt the trans skid to the all-pro skid with the two elongated holes on the trans skid and All-Pros. Make sure you push the skid up high enough so that it doesn't hang lower than the All-Pro skid.
Step 2:
You will need to mark the center of the holes to be drilled in the All-Pro skid plate once you aligned and tighten up the bolts from step 1. I just took some spray paint and lightly sprayed the hole. Take the skid off and center punch the hole to be drilled then drill a 1/2" hole on each side. Start off with a smaller drill bit first then work your way up.
Step 3 Version 1:
Find the cross member holes on each side to use for the back of the skid. The drivers side hole is round and the passenger side is elongated. They both have an opening on top so you can get a socket down there when putting the bolts in. Bolt the skid back up with all 4 bolts so you know its in its final resting spot. Then, find those holes and mark the center on the skid. Take the friggin skid off again and drill the holes. While the skid is off, take those thick ass washers and get them in the center section. The only way to get them in there is from the middle two holes of the cross member. They are the only holes big enough. Get the washer above the holes to be used before putting the skid back on.
Step 3 Version 2:
Find the cross member holes on each side to use for the back of the skid. Both holes are the out most holes and go all the way through the member from top to bottom. Bolt the skid back up with all 4 bolts so you know its in its final resting spot. Then, find those holes and mark the center on the skid. Take the friggin skid off again and drill the holes. Use the 1/2"x3 1/2" bolts to mount it to the cross member.
Step 4:
Bolt the skid back on....again for the final time. DONE!!

Pap

 

sweet

 

That's awesome chris! I hope it works out!

 

How thick?

 

This is awesome detail, I am looking for something like this for a rear bumper. I really like how you did the mock up template too, how did the test fitment with that work for you?

 

Josh - it will be 3/16"

cotruckin - yes, it worked out well. Yes, I like to make sure things work before spending money on fabrication. The mock-up worked well. It fit nicely.

Pap

 

cool

 

Here it is! Only took two days to cut and bend. Just drilled two holes for the cross member, installed it and now ready for paint! Fits perfectly!!









All said and done, it cost me $225.

 

WOW. Excellent work! And you'll start selling them... when...?

 

Pap, It looks great! Rep sent.

 

Who made that skid plate over the cross member? Hit them with it because its only tack welded
Is that All pro ??? If you hit anything with it its going to get rip off from skid plate. In worst case it will fall off somewhere on the highway and kill somebody behind you.

 

Thank you all for the compliments! I will not be selling them. The diagram is there for people to build off of. Just find a decent local sheetmetal shop and have them make it up for ya. The only thing I would change is the holes on top... I would elongate them so that you can push the skid up higher. I had to elongate them after it was fabricated. I will revise that drawing to reflect.

Pap

 

That box out for the exhaust will get a continuos weld on it or will be coming off soon if I decide to reroute the exhaust above it.

Pap

 

Very detailed and well done

 

get the doug thorley y pipe

 

Chris,

I'm glad to see this all come together! Sorry we didn't have the time at this moment to accommodate you with the 1-Off Design - But it came out great! Nice work and planning

Jason

 

+1 rep, I will be making this in the summer to replace my current trans skid.

 

Thanks again.
Josh - that Y-pipe is in my short future.

Yea Jason - No problem. sounded like you guys were pretty jammed up with that wicked project you are working on. Get it done!

mtmrider -Its real easy to do. I will write up on where to drill the holes after the weekend and update the original post.

Pap

 

looks sweet.......