Should I order top plate spacers with ome and 5100

So , what I am getting at is you could still get the longer top bolts which will be under $20 and use them when you put in the 885's , then you are covered if you want to add the top spacers down the road .

pm TW member Oswego , he has had some issues with his uni-balls , he is in NJ , and an extra on the smash hit show ' Jersey Shore '

 

I have no problem pulling it apart a seccond time, and if i decide not to add the spacer, i spent the money on longer studs for nothing. Its all good, i'm not worried about it.

Didn't really think to PM him but i saw his thread where the chorme uni-balls were all pitted. If i recall the date of the thread though he has only had the stainless uni-balls in for a couple months so its not really enough time to tell. Ill double check and probably send him a message anyways.

sorry for hijacking your thread Bone Buster, but it was kind of on topic.

 

Sorry for the thread jack OP , some of that info applies to your situation as well .

 

Here' s pic of the cv axles.

 

How are the 885 on Billies set @ .85? Would you recommend this or have the Billies @ 0? Any pros and cons so far?

 

Those don't look too bad although you can't really see the inner one

 

Can you take a better pic of the inner cv boot? it looks like their touching in that pic...

im installing my 885's in a few hours

 

FWIW i installed mine yesterday. 885's and left the 5100's at 0 and 1/4" spacer on driver side. I also removed my sway bar while i had it apart. There is no way i was going to be able to compress that spring enough to get it on at .85 . My current measurements are right around 23" (hub to fender) +.2 on pass side - .2 driver side. and my inner cv boots are verrrry close to touching.

I got a lot of taco lean...

ps. the ride is softer than stock coils at 1.75 ( although this is partly due to removing the sway bar i think)