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Old 10-23-2008, 12:57 PM   #42
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Well, it gets all frozen up underneith and cakes on just like mud....sometimes WAY WORSE. The super cold, fluffy stuff like in my pics just flies right off...but when you get those days where the temp is just below the freezing point, it feels like you're driving in slush, and when you get home you have an extra 100 lbs in ice under your rig.
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Old 10-23-2008, 01:06 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigTRD View Post
Never been stuck.
Pardon the damaging insinuation!
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Old 10-23-2008, 01:16 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luk8272 View Post
I would assume that is easier to clean off than mud
When it's cold enough, and your Taco ends up looking like Craig's, you just have to leave it like that, drive it, and hope it some day melts off the body!
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Tundra wheels, Access Roll-Up Tonneau, D-Rings in front of bed floor, tinted door glass to match privacy tint in rear windows, synthetic oil, Husky floor liners, fog lights, constant power mod for 12v receptacles, brake controller, heated mirrors, billet grill.
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Old 11-18-2008, 06:27 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigTRD View Post
We don't have a defrost switch in our truck, do we? What does it do if we do have one.....our rear windows don't have the heater lines that go through them....

I would like a timer circuit for this though, I would probably burn my truck to the ground by accident after doing this mod wired straight up to constant voltage. I can be a bit of a "hat rack" in the morning time....

JRD, Thanks for the compliment!
if you worried about forgetting the power on, use a relay and hook up one end to the ACC line, so that way ur heated mirrors only have power with the truck is running. a small 12v Bosch relay would work.. $2-3 and just get a lighted switch as a visual reminder.
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Old 11-18-2008, 01:18 PM   #46
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Yeah, I plan on triggering the relay I eventually add with the line that turns on the accessory relay I currently have disabled.
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Tundra wheels, Access Roll-Up Tonneau, D-Rings in front of bed floor, tinted door glass to match privacy tint in rear windows, synthetic oil, Husky floor liners, fog lights, constant power mod for 12v receptacles, brake controller, heated mirrors, billet grill.
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Old 11-18-2008, 01:20 PM   #47
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I have been using my heated mirrors lately. The area on the mirror directly above the heating elements clears in seconds, then takes minutes for the heat to spread around. Sometimes I leave them on for 10 minutes to get adequate clearing of the entire mirror.

If one had an element that covered the entire mirror, you would just have to have it on for 10 seconds each time you used it.
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2005 Access Cab V6 SR5 4x4 6-speed manual

Tundra wheels, Access Roll-Up Tonneau, D-Rings in front of bed floor, tinted door glass to match privacy tint in rear windows, synthetic oil, Husky floor liners, fog lights, constant power mod for 12v receptacles, brake controller, heated mirrors, billet grill.
2001 Toyota Echo
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:54 AM   #48
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I've got the heat-pads installed and all the wiring run to the cab of the truck, but I'm curious what size relay you guys would use. Also what size fuse? Anyone have any idea what current these things will draw? Did you guys wire them so that they're on the 'hi' or 'lo' setting? Also, would you tap into the ignition wire for power?

TIA
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:33 AM   #49
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Just to chip in.

You are really fusing to protect against a short circuit, and you really want to use a fuse that is small enough to protect the wire. I think 14 guage wire is good for 15 amps, 16 guage is good for 10 amps.

Measure the resistance of either heater. Divide 12 by the resistance to find the current for one pad. (i.e if its 6 ohms 12/6 = 2 amps). Double the current because the heaters are in parallel (so 2 amp becomes 4 amps). A 5 amp fuse could blow with a 4 amp load, so 10 amps should be safe and 16 guage wire would work.

If your indicated load is close to 10 amps, you'd go to 14 guage wire and a 15 amp fuse.

Remember, if you use a 10 amp fuse, the source you collect to have to be the same or more (i.e 15 amps).

Unless you are using a timer you don't need a relay. A switch will do and is easier to install. Most switches will handle 10 to 15 amps. If you insist on a relay, make sure it'll handle the load (10 or 15 amps).
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:53 PM   #50
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i really need to do this now. damn 15 degree weather tonight. luckily i have a heated garage
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Old 12-04-2008, 05:55 AM   #51
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You'll want all the heat you can get, so wiring to the high circuit will be the best.
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Thane Silliker
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2005 Access Cab V6 SR5 4x4 6-speed manual

Tundra wheels, Access Roll-Up Tonneau, D-Rings in front of bed floor, tinted door glass to match privacy tint in rear windows, synthetic oil, Husky floor liners, fog lights, constant power mod for 12v receptacles, brake controller, heated mirrors, billet grill.
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Old 12-20-2008, 06:45 AM   #53
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Thumbs up Cheap quick mirror fix

Hey This is a great post and I plan on upgrading my truck with this as soon as possible; However, that won't be for a little while. So I tried putting a good coat of Rain X on the Mirrors when I put it on my windsheild and other windows. It helps removing the ice in the morning to. So far the mirrors have not been an issue since I did this. I will keep monitoring them and let you know if it stops working before I can upgrade my mirrors.

Thanks again for the great Idea.

Swany
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:46 PM   #54
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Well I did it last night. I left the heated mirrors off with the truck parked overnight. Battery was pretty dead this morning. A few hours on a charger allowed me to start the truck.

I really must get this wired to an accessory circuit soon!
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Thane Silliker
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2005 Access Cab V6 SR5 4x4 6-speed manual

Tundra wheels, Access Roll-Up Tonneau, D-Rings in front of bed floor, tinted door glass to match privacy tint in rear windows, synthetic oil, Husky floor liners, fog lights, constant power mod for 12v receptacles, brake controller, heated mirrors, billet grill.
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Old 12-20-2008, 03:18 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsilliker View Post
Well I did it last night. I left the heated mirrors off with the truck parked overnight. Battery was pretty dead this morning. A few hours on a charger allowed me to start the truck.

I really must get this wired to an accessory circuit soon!
You mean ON? Shit, if they drain the battery when OFF there's a problem.
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holy crap Chris, that thing is massive???
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:32 AM   #56
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Right you are...must have been asleep when I wrote that! That's what happens when you work three weeks without a day off!

I have all the stuff I need to change over to the switched circuit. Just need to find the time!
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Thane Silliker
London, Ontario

2005 Access Cab V6 SR5 4x4 6-speed manual

Tundra wheels, Access Roll-Up Tonneau, D-Rings in front of bed floor, tinted door glass to match privacy tint in rear windows, synthetic oil, Husky floor liners, fog lights, constant power mod for 12v receptacles, brake controller, heated mirrors, billet grill.
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:49 AM   #57
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coulda used this yesterday!
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:17 AM   #58
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i know its only been a few months since the mod was put up, but for those of you that have used silicone, have there been any problems? with the heat pads or the cold temperature?? or has anyone used any other bonding agent (which can be found locally ie home depot/crappy tire)

looking at doin this mod soon and just waiting on the switch to arrive at the stealership.
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:25 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk1 View Post

looking at doin this mod soon and just waiting on the switch to arrive at the stealership.

Are you using the Toyota Highlander Heated Mirror Switch????
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:36 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk1 View Post
i know its only been a few months since the mod was put up, but for those of you that have used silicone, have there been any problems? with the heat pads or the cold temperature?? or has anyone used any other bonding agent (which can be found locally ie home depot/crappy tire)

looking at doin this mod soon and just waiting on the switch to arrive at the stealership.
I did the mod and used "Mirror Mastic" as the bonding agent. Bought it at the local hardware store. It comes in a caulking tube, and it was located near the aisle of wall mirrors and mirror-hanging hardware. I'm sure if you ask someone, they'll be able to direct you to it (the guy looked at me like I had 3 heads when I asked for it). No issues with it so far.
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