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Moog LCA ball joint, tie rod, and wheel bearing replacement part #'s and general BS

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by misc, Jun 7, 2011.

  1. Jun 7, 2011 at 6:30 PM
    #1
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I haven't seen any condensed info on any of the sites and since these are typical wear items on a 4x4 05+ Tacoma I figured I would throw out some part numbers and pictures for all to see/use when they have the same issues.

    I have never used Moog before, so I contacted some guys I know before investing in their parts. No one had anything bad to say so I choose Moog for all of my parts. I purchased everything from Rock Auto Sunday night and it was all delivered today (Tuesday).

    Moog's designs seem solid and they have serviceable tie rods and ball joints that should last much longer then OE as long as they are taken care of.

    Please note there are 1,000 ways to skin a cat and many other parts from different manufacturers that can be used. This thread is just a summary of what I used.

    Tie rod
    Part #: ES80895
    $24.79

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    LCA ball joint
    Part #: K80827
    $36.79

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    DIY LCA Ball Joint Replacement 2005+ Tacoma link

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...oint-replacement-2005-tacoma.html#post3564451


    Front wheel bearing + hub
    Part #: 515040
    $77.89
    (hub isn't required)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Wheel bearing replacement link:

    http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2085993&postcount=1

    Note: a 35mm socket or a 36mm socket can be used, but it is not 100% correct.
    For the exact recommended socket see here http://toyota.spx.com/hwtordr.aspx

    The part # is: SST 09318-12010
    http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=545&p=281&g=0

    See below for a PDF Toyota Tech bulletin on replacement.
    **Do NOT follow the torque specks on the PDF labeled "Front Hub (4wd & Pre-Runner)" - this PDF was supplied for removal of parts ONLY.
    **For proper torque specks follow the PDF named "Front Axle Hub (4wd & Pre-Runner) Installation. It is the bottom PDF and should be used for installation.





    For the people who need gaskets (should be everyone unless you want to replace your wheel bearings again in 3,000 miles)

    Wheel seals:

    NATIONAL Part # 710477 Oil Seal (Nitrile Seal)
    Shaft Size=3.189", Housing Bore=3.801, Outer Diameter=3.809, Width=0.63in
    Front Wheel; 4WD; Outer
    Rock Auto $8.64

    NATIONAL Part # 710573 Oil Seal (Nitrile Seal)
    Shaft Size=2.856", Housing Bore=3.525, Outer Diameter=3.537, Width=0.252in
    Front Wheel; 4WD; Inner
    Rock Auto $9.53

    OE O ring Part # 9030192003
    Village Toyota $3.94




    Rock Auto always has 5% off discount codes so search the web for their current one before ordering. I saved $13.95 in 2 minutes.


    Here are some new ball joints you might also want to consider

    RAYBESTOS:
    BALL JOINTS
    • One-piece forged for strength
    • Two-piece cylindrical wedge provides Industry's finest fatigue/wear resistance
    • No spring, no endplay
    • Cold formed, heat-treated stud for superior strength ad durability
    • Full Ball design delivers ample wear surface
    • Fused urethane boot prevents joint disintegration
    • One premium pieces, no galvanic corrosion thanks to coated stud and hardware

    [​IMG]

    2005+ 4.0 4x4 or Prerunner

    Upper ball joint PT# 500-1150 Master Installer price is $32.90
    Lower ball joint PT# 505-1427 Master Installer price is $32.90



     
  2. Jun 7, 2011 at 6:39 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Moog is some good stuff!
     
  3. Jun 7, 2011 at 6:49 PM
    #3
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Time will tell ultimately, but I'm impressed by their design and overall quality right out of the box.

    No missing parts...check

    No rust...check

    No defective/ripped/weathered/dry rotted boots...check

    No forging or mold issues...check

    :)
     
  4. Jun 7, 2011 at 6:52 PM
    #4
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Interesting
     
  5. Jun 7, 2011 at 6:53 PM
    #5
    HomerTaco

    HomerTaco also HomerTaco Vendor

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    HomerTaco ...................................................................................................................................................... Core-Hurst short throw shifter & T-handle / Carbon Fiber Interior / custom console light / De-badged / leather interior / Heated Front seats / Red Line Hood Struts / Painted speaker grills /one-off TRD Satoshi Grill with 12-15 front-end swap/ Pioneer AVIC-X920BT HU / Scangauge II / Black LED Tails / Dash Mount for iPad mini / Safari Snorkel / Auto-pilot mode / Leer 100XQ Cap / 4x Innovations sliders / Rear Diff Breather Mod / front windows tinted to 35% / Brute Force Fab Hybrid Front Bumper / BAMF Rear Diff Skid / Budbuilt Skids / CBI Trail Master 2.0 rear hybrid bumper / Fox rr coils/ TC UCA's/ TC spindle gussets/ TC Cam Tab gussets / Dakar leafs / Defined Engineering shackles / All pro U bolt flip / Timbren Rear Bumpstops / BAMF LCA skids / Exhaust re-route / Fog Light anytime Mod / LowRange Off Road extended rear brake lines / ATO Shackle Flip / sectioned Bushwhacker flares / re-geared to 4.56 / ARB Front & Rear Locking Diff / ARB CKMA12 compressor / PrInSu full rack system / 1" body lift / Inchworm 4.7 crawlbox / twin stick FJ t-case / Davez off-road triple-stick kit/
  6. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:04 PM
    #6
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That's the whole point of getting them...the added greasing. Ill remember.

    If cash was no object I would of gone with SKF over all other brands. They have the best bearing seals and bearings from what I researched IMO.

    If I can get 63k out of OE wheel bearings I think Ill be just fine with Moog.
     
  7. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:07 PM
    #7
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Was that your noise you were trying to find ?
     
  8. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:10 PM
    #8
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    For the people just ordering bearings or need seals

    Wheel seals:

    NATIONAL Part # 710477 Oil Seal (Nitrile Seal)
    Shaft Size=3.189", Housing Bore=3.801, Outer Diameter=3.809, Width=0.63in
    Front Wheel; 4WD; Outer
    Rock Auto $8.64

    NATIONAL Part # 710573 Oil Seal (Nitrile Seal)
    Shaft Size=2.856", Housing Bore=3.525, Outer Diameter=3.537, Width=0.252in
    Front Wheel; 4WD; Inner
    Rock Auto $9.53

    OE O ring Part # 9030192003
    Village Toyota $3.94
     
  9. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:17 PM
    #9
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    For the past 5-6k. Ive pushed them far and I expect to see some carnage. I got the hubs just in case. You have to remember my truck see's salt 3-4 months out of the year and my local trails are always wet and full of sand and mud. Pretty much bearing hell. I also drive like an a-hole compounding my issues. I have 63k on the truck.
     
  10. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:22 PM
    #10
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My truck sounds like this baby in action

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:25 PM
    #11
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What are you laughing at?

    Now that we got you taking your truck into the woods your NEXT :devil:

    I hear Wharton calling you

    *Craig*

    *Craig*

    *Come play in my sand and mud water*
     
  12. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:30 PM
    #12
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    We need a Wharton hit list

    Me: Starter, uniballs, every bearing

    Joe: wheel bearings, belt tension-er

    Scott: just about every moving part

    Josh: 4x4 actuator and who knows what next

    John: manual transmission

    and I know someone blew out all their pullies, just can't remember who

    Yea....lets play in the mud :(
     
  13. Jun 7, 2011 at 8:56 PM
    #13
    HomerTaco

    HomerTaco also HomerTaco Vendor

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    If it's any consolation, I've got this weird hum when I go over 60mph now...:confused:

    started after BC... :notsure:
     
  14. Jun 7, 2011 at 9:10 PM
    #14
    misc

    misc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Carrier bearing is my guess.

    Next time I see you Ill take a look.
     
  15. Jun 8, 2011 at 3:42 AM
    #15
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    dam my truck is quiet quiet quiet now....and im loving it....
    first time in years
    well that is except rear leafs squeaking at times
     
  16. Jun 8, 2011 at 11:24 AM
    #16
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    anyone know where i can get just the hub
     
  17. Jun 8, 2011 at 11:29 AM
    #17
    pAP

    pAP ==========

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    Me too. Interesting that it started after Wharton.....:(
     
  18. Jun 8, 2011 at 11:38 AM
    #18
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight Well-Known Member

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    A few bolts are different.
    Front wheel bearing + hub
    Part #: 515040
    $77.89
    (hub isn't required)
    [​IMG]

    Pressing still required for install or is this finally a full assembly? Looks not all together in the pic to me...
     
  19. Jun 8, 2011 at 11:56 AM
    #19
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    I moded 1999 Taco so much it had turned to Land Cruiser
    Timken is crap... as the rest of them...
    My LC Koyo's lasted 180K and Koyo's for 2gen truck are expensive but worth every dollar.
    Toyota installs Koyo on LC's but the rest of the budget cars get some other shady bearings.
     
  20. Jun 8, 2011 at 12:00 PM
    #20
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    This baby needs the wheel hub pressed in.
     

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