Brakes seriously pissing me off!!!

Rocks stuck in pads?? :S

 

The place should have bled the brakes so they shouldn't have been dragging the whole time (shouldn't being the operative word). Are the pads shot already after 6 months? What kind of pads and rotors did you have installed? It sounds like your pads are shot already based on the mechanic accusing you of riding the brakes. Some pads have little metal tabs that wear on the rotor when the pad is worn down. It makes an awful sound but lets you know they need to be changed.

If you think it could be a rock in the pads, go in reverse and hit the brakes, that can help get rocks out. You may have to pull a wheel and have a look at what's happening. Another option, re-bleed the brakes and see if it helps (doubtful but it's a cheap fix if it works).

 

Brakes only need bled when you open the system. ie. replace a line, master or wheel cylinder or caliper.

Inspect the pads. Look to see if the wear indicator is touching or near the rotor(small peice of metal attached to the pad. If the pad indicator is nowhere near the rotor, you have a lubrication/shim issue.
Shims are normally used between the pad and rotor to dampen the noise created from pad oscillation during braking. Caliper grease can be used instead or in combination. Eventually the grease works it's way off or becomes caked. This is most likely your problem.

Clean everything with brake cleaner, relube the backs of the pads and the grooves where the pads ride, and reassemble. DO NOT get caliper lube on the pad's friction surface or the rotor.

DO NOT Bleed your brakes, unless you have introduced air into your system. You will be creating a new headache for yourself.

 

2010...brakes are bad..almost hit a few cars already, cause the thing won't stop!

 

Most likely they installed wrong pads or installed them wrongly ..
Also the lower pin rusts and allows brakes to be be stuck. it could be a problem too.

 

You make it sound like bleeding your brakes is a bad thing... There's nothing wrong with bleeding them. I've always bled mine when I replaced the pads and rotors. You're correct that it's not necessary, but certainly not a bad idea. Some shops will tell you that it's not a bad thing to do every so often because the fluid next to the pads constantly gets hot from the brakes and it does not cycle through the lines. Bleeding every so often forces out the old fluid.

OP, I think you need to pull the wheel and inspect the pads and see how much wear you have left. If there's a lot of pad left, follow skytower's recommendation and clean everything out.

 

The squeal you hear first thing in the morning is probably the pads rubbing off a thin layer of rust that has formed overnight on the rotors. This can happen especially with semi-metallic pads and if the truck is parked outside and the weather is humid or rainy.

 

A bleed is normally referred to as removing air from the lines. Purging fluid as you push in the piston is another story alltogether. It is a good idea to purge, it allows the wear items to escape instead of returning to the master cylinder. It is not necessary, and may introduce air into the system if done improperly.

Semi and metallic brakes squeal until they heat up, they wear the rotor more than all other brakes, but hold up better under heavy braking.
Ceramic brakes are easier on rotors, and are more quiet. They wear faster under heavy braking than metallics.

When the shims are worn out, the anti-sqeal compound/caliper grease is caked up, or you have metallic brakes, they will squeal.