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Changing Manual Transmission Oil

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Old 09-16-2011, 02:15 PM   #1
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Changing Manual Transmission Oil

I've got an '05 Taco with a 5-speed, 4 cyl, 5-lugger, 2.7L, regular cab and I wanna change the tranny oil this weekend. It's got around 90K on it and I'm pretty sure it's never been changed (2nd owner). I'm looking for a good write-up on how to do this. I saw one on here a while back but I can't seem to find it now. Anybody got any good advice or write-ups? Thanks
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Old 09-16-2011, 02:25 PM   #2
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It's the same as the diffs. You just unbolt the fill (higher one) first, then the drain (lower one).

Once you crack the drain, the oil will come out, so have a catch pan under it.

Put drain plug back in and retorque.

Use a little cheapo hand pump for the oil (75W90) and pump it back in through the fill.

Put the fill plug back and retorque.

Done!
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Old 09-16-2011, 02:30 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspadaro View Post
It's the same as the diffs. You just unbolt the fill (higher one) first, then the drain (lower one).

Once you crack the drain, the oil will come out, so have a catch pan under it.

Put drain plug back in and retorque.

Use a little cheapo hand pump for the oil (75W90) and pump it back in through the fill.

Put the fill plug back and retorque.

Done!
Thanks. Sounds pretty simple. Any idea what the torque value is? And what the best oil would be? I live in a very mild climate.
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Old 09-16-2011, 02:31 PM   #4
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I put in mobil-1 synthetic, because that was the only reasonably priced 75W90 synthetic near me. (The fact that it says "limited slip" on it is confirmed to not be a problem.)

Haynes manual says 27 lb-ft for the plugs. Oh, and I think they're 24mm bolts, just like the rear diff, but I'm not 100% on that.

And like the diffs, you refill til it is to the bottom of the fill hole or starts to come out. Should be 2.7 quarts for your 5-lugger.

Last tip: Hit both bolts with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight (or for at least a couple hours) before trying to get them off. Mine were almost impossible at 30k, and you're at 90.
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspadaro View Post
I put in mobil-1 synthetic, because that was the only reasonably priced 75W90 synthetic near me. (The fact that it says "limited slip" on it is confirmed to not be a problem.)

Haynes manual says 27 lb-ft for the plugs. Oh, and I think they're 24mm bolts, just like the rear diff, but I'm not 100% on that.

And like the diffs, you refill til it is to the bottom of the fill hole or starts to come out. Should be 2.7 quarts for your 5-lugger.

Last tip: Hit both bolts with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight (or for at least a couple hours) before trying to get them off. Mine were almost impossible at 30k, and you're at 90.
Okay, good idea.

It looks like there are two fill holes, one on each side. The one on the passenger side looks lower than the other one. These are the fill and drain holes, correct?
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geeper View Post
Okay, good idea.

It looks like there are two fill holes, one on each side. The one on the passenger side looks lower than the other one. These are the fill and drain holes, correct?
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...nge-howto.html

Make sure you're not looking at plugs for the transfer case (in that writeup, which also has the general procedure for doing this).

But yes, should only be 1 drain and 1 fill plug, on alternate sides of the trans. They're the only 24mm bolts in that area IIRC besides the transfer case plugs.

The lower one is the drain, the higher one is the fill. Make sure you can bust the fill loose before draining your fluid!
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Old 09-16-2011, 04:07 PM   #7
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Nice timing for this. I just came from three stores looking for 75-90 synthetic in a gallon size to do both compartments. I believe it is like 6 quarts for the job. Nobody seems to sell gallon size. The mobil 1 was $10/ quart. Maybe autozone next.
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:41 AM   #8
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Jeez! $10 per quart?

Thanks for all the info.
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geeper View Post
Jeez! $10 per quart?

Thanks for all the info.
I got 6 mobil1 for $8.99 at autozone.
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:54 PM   #10
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Yeah autozone has mobil1 for 7.99 / qt here. Synthetic oil costs a bit more...
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:46 AM   #11
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Lots of guys say the syn gl-5 is too slick and causes notchy shifting. I'm running it. I tend to wonder some times. I'm gonna switch to the redline mt-90 next go around.
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxamillion2345 View Post
Lots of guys say the syn gl-5 is too slick and causes notchy shifting. I'm running it. I tend to wonder some times. I'm gonna switch to the redline mt-90 next go around.
Is it o.k. to replace the repair manual spec "APL GL-4 or APL GL-5 75w-90" with Redline MT-90 instead of Redline 75w-90? (so cal btw)
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:57 AM   #13
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MT-90 is a GL-4 so it's within spec.
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:41 AM   #14
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I am about ready for tranny and diff oil changes with mine as well. I believe I did read some complaining about the GL-5 in the manual tranny. And the manual states GL-4 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90? Lets see if others give us feedback on this. I feel my tranny already shifts a little clunky or not very smooth at times and was hoping to get a better feel with the upgrade on the oil.
I was planning on going GL-5 for both, but I may go GL-4 in the tranny and GL-5 in the diff. if the tranny likes GL-4 better?
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Old 09-29-2011, 05:15 PM   #15
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If you haven't done it yet. Use Amsoil severe gear 75w-90. I'm not an Amsoil dealer only a preferred customer. The manual trans in my '02 was very tight, not broken in. After changing the fluid the trans shifts way better. It's an easy job, just get a pump. It's a safe bet that the previous owner didn't change the oil. You should change all the fluids, clutch, brake, rad., trans., front/rear diff, engine, transfer case. DIY for about $200 or pay a shop $800.
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