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Old 10-07-2011, 09:49 PM   #1
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flexlite electric cooling fan installation

Don't really know where to put this.

I'm looking to buy the flexalite cooling fan for my 2011 tacoma:

http://www.autoanything.com/coolers/61A5353A0A0.aspx

Before buying, I want to be sure I can actually install the thing. Having looked through the instructions, I'm at easy with most of the steps, but this one is causing me problem:

5. (Mandatory) With air conditioning, connect the "C" terminal on the control module to the positive wire that triggers the A/C compressor using the small diameter green (14 AWG) wire.Using a voltmeter, determine which wire coming from the compressor is the positive trigger wire. Use the 3-way connector (included) to tap into this wire and send a signal to the fancontrol module. The fan will cycle on and off with the A/C clutch when the A/C is turned on.

Looking at my AC compressor, does anyone know about where I have to look at these wires? Also, how do you advise me to take the readings, if it's a wire and a plug? Also, if anyone knows the actual color of the positive wire, it would also help.

Thank you.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ouyin2000 View Post
Do you really have a need for that?
That is not the question. Thank you.
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ouyin2000 View Post
I've never seen anyone discussing these on this forum until now. Benefits?
1- For cold climate like here: faster warm ups of the engine, so faster heating of the cabin.

2- MPG gains (due to less parasitic drag on the engine, and a faster warm-up)

3- Some minor power gains (this one I don't care)
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:28 PM   #6
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a little more info: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...A-AE550FFCEF30

also check the other forums i know there have been a few installations of these. ToyotaNation has a good one, if i remember correctly. pb2TheMax is the guys sn (somthing like that i think) he did a write up on TN.
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:11 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supralight View Post
Don't really know where to put this...

I'm at easy with most of the steps, but this one is causing me problem:

5. (Mandatory) With air conditioning, connect the "C" terminal on the control module to the positive wire that triggers the A/C compressor using the small diameter green (14 AWG) wire.Using a voltmeter, determine which wire coming from the compressor is the positive trigger wire. Use the 3-way connector (included) to tap into this wire and send a signal to the fancontrol module. The fan will cycle on and off with the A/C clutch when the A/C is turned on.

Looking at my AC compressor, does anyone know about where I have to look at these wires? Also, how do you advise me to take the readings, if it's a wire and a plug? Also, if anyone knows the actual color of the positive wire, it would also help.

Thank you.
Open the cover to the engine room fuse box.
There are 3 white plugs on the engine side off the box.
The top right one is the connector to verify and tap.
The wire needed, which is purple, is in the #3 position, counting from the top to bottom of the plug on the lefthand side of the plug.
Use a meter to view voltage while engine ON and A/C is cycled.

The purple is for a '05, I don't think it has changed on a '11.
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Old 10-08-2011, 05:28 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supralight View Post
1- For cold climate like here: faster warm ups of the engine, so faster heating of the cabin.

2- MPG gains (due to less parasitic drag on the engine, and a faster warm-up)

3- Some minor power gains (this one I don't care)
both 2 and 3 are probably iffy... but not worth quibbling about

lets add a couple

4- Better A/C performance in summer stop-go and slow speed driving. Just be sure to wire the fan to be on when A/C's on.

5- MUCH quieter operation; no ROAR when starting up

6- install a fan cut-off switch the cabin, then turn off fan before fording deep and you'll never sling muddy water all over the engine bay again. try doing that with a belt driven fan!

7- throttle response at low speed is improved because the drag of the fan is removed
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Old 10-08-2011, 06:27 AM   #9
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The OEM clutch fan doesnt have as much drag as alot of folks think. The difference between the E fan, and OEM fan cant be measured on a dyno. The OEM fan basically free wheels when its not engaged. Open your hood, and give it a spin with your hands....You'll see how easy it is to turn. Also, the E fan will generate more drag on the alternator. So any "gains" are going to be a wash. As for faster warm ups, that may be, but being in AZ, I could never really test that. Hit up PD3 and see what all he had to do to get his installed.
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:23 AM   #10
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caribe makaira View Post
Open the cover to the engine room fuse box.
There are 3 white plugs on the engine side off the box.
The top right one is the connector to verify and tap.
The wire needed, which is purple, is in the #3 position, counting from the top to bottom of the plug on the lefthand side of the plug.
Use a meter to view voltage while engine ON and A/C is cycled.

The purple is for a '05, I don't think it has changed on a '11.
Thank you for that great piece of advice. My 2011 has the purple wire. will make things way easier by going directly from the fuse box.

And chris4X4, I'll look up PD3, but reading the installation manual, installation seems to be easy enough.

Thank both of you for advices.
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supralight View Post
Thank you for that great piece of advice. My 2011 has the purple wire. will make things way easier by going directly from the fuse box.

And chris4X4, I'll look up PD3, but reading the installation manual, installation seems to be easy enough.

Thank both of you for advices.
Installation is easy. However, Getting the fans to turn on at the correct temp, is a little more difficult. You need an accurate temp gauge, as the gauge on the dash will read "Operating temp" at around 130*, and will not move from its spot until about 215* to 225*, or more, at which point you risk over heating. Aslo, The OEM fan moves a shit load of air. IIRC, PD3 ended up going with a 3800 CFM fan, as the others didnt move enough air.
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:58 AM   #13
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What is the difference between any old electric fan and this super expensive one?
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
.... Aslo, The OEM fan moves a shit load of air. IIRC, PD3 ended up going with a 3800 CFM fan, as the others didnt move enough air.
Is PD3 the guy who mounted the fan into the existing shroud? I think that's also really important for maximum cooling efficiency because it draws air through the all of the radiator, not just the part under the fan itself. His how-to wasn't on TW though. He cut a piece of aluminum sheet, riveted it into the shroud pening and then mounted the electric fan to that.

saugus: dunno know expensive this one is but don't cheap out on an electric fan. you'll just be replacing it really soon if ya do.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:06 AM   #15
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You can't go wrong with the flexlite man. Yes your alternator is going to get a work out. No your truck isn't going to overheat. Have had the fan for a good while now, and it has not let me down. It's simple to install (as the point has already been made) make sure you wire it to come on when you kick on the a/c.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:17 AM   #16
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mheh! found the link:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238...4d-5-ft/page-9

he used a SPAL fan with a PWM controller so the fan speed can be varied

Like I said, I really like that he used the existing shroud, bringing the entire radiator into the airflow helps tremendously with efficiency.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:34 AM   #17
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Subscribed.
Supralight, If you do this, please document your installation.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddywh1 View Post
Is PD3 the guy who mounted the fan into the existing shroud? I think that's also really important for maximum cooling efficiency because it draws air through the all of the radiator, not just the part under the fan itself. His how-to wasn't on TW though. He cut a piece of aluminum sheet, riveted it into the shroud pening and then mounted the electric fan to that.

saugus: dunno know expensive this one is but don't cheap out on an electric fan. you'll just be replacing it really soon if ya do.
yeah, IIRC, He tried the existing shroud, then made a custom one, and got a different fan, and controler.
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Old 10-09-2011, 10:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
yeah, IIRC, He tried the existing shroud, then made a custom one, and got a different fan, and controler.
It's definitely good advice to learn from others' experiences... looking through his article, though, I don't see where he changed from the modded shroud, but he did add a small SPAL fan to the transmission cooler for towing.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caribe makaira View Post
Open the cover to the engine room fuse box.
There are 3 white plugs on the engine side off the box.
The top right one is the connector to verify and tap.
The wire needed, which is purple, is in the #3 position, counting from the top to bottom of the plug on the lefthand side of the plug.
Use a meter to view voltage while engine ON and A/C is cycled.

The purple is for a '05, I don't think it has changed on a '11.
Did this on my 09, I was more comfortable tapping into this wire in the fuse box and having some level of element protection. Also I soldered, shink tubed and liguid taped the connection.

Be aware that this wire is the AC compressor clutch ON signal, not the AC system ON signal, as they are different. Fan turns on when compressor is engaged, not when AC is switched on.

Just to re-iterate what has been said, I saw no perf/mpg gains, nor did I notice any AC perf gains. Quieter startup, yes, less roar when low-speeding it when hot, yes. I'm not sure if the $400 was worth it, but it's on now and will stay there.
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