POLL: For those who have DTRL and its melting your lights.

Any updates on the theory on this? I have two wires and a browned socket and melted lenses.

 

Either the 2nd filament is not being used, or it is running at the same time as the primary filament.

The DRL/turn signal switching is handled through the flasher and harness under the dash.

To "properly" disable DRL requires a shorting jumper and an 8-pin flasher.
The DRL harness and 12-pin flasher is unplugged from the underdash fuseblock, the 8-pin flasher is plugged in to one socket, and the shorting pin is plugged into the other.

 

My 2010 Canadain truck (50,000 miles ) has melted both lenses and completely burnt both harnesses and the sockets for the bulbs . 2 wire socket , no blacked out head lights .

I am suprised the truck hasnt burnt my garage down yet cuz I run the truck in the mornings with my command start . Suprisingly , the dtrl still function

 

Victim here of cracked and cracking lenses. I took pictures to send to a dealer and here is their response (I've left it for now but will bring it up with them shortly). I had a WTF moment, and could literally feel the bristles against my face from the brush off.


Me:
"Headlights, see attached picture (I'm only including one picture), both have cracks (from inside of lens forming on both head lights), can this be warrantied?"

Dealer:
"[FONT=&quot]I received the email back from my Toyota rep and from the picture we see he stated it does not look like a warrantable item. He stated that normally this happens when pressure is put on them, and there is no pressure from inside out. We can take a look at them and get some more pictures to send him.[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]Thanks,"[/FONT]

 

Can you post the pic here? This thread is about burned/cracked DRL lenses, which are the inside lenses over the turn signals.

The DRLs won't cause cracking of the clear outer shell.

 

I sure hope this issue was resolved long before the '13. Makes me glad I can turn off my DRL's if I want too in the '13 model.

 

I have an '09 sport dcsb which did not come with dtrl. However, I noticed my bulbs are dual filament and only two wire. Only the brighter filament comes on with the blinkers. I spliced into the parking lights and fed the spice into the back of the socket where there was a plugged wire port. Now I have dtrl with the dimmer filament on with the the parking lights. The brighter filament still only lights with the blinkers. No melted lenses after 4 years. Wonder if it's the brighter filament being on all the time that is melting the lenses on other trucks. I'm sure it gets hotter and isn't meant to be on all the time, just blink.

 

Here's my story: Noticed both DTRL were melted right around 45k miles. Brought it to service department attention and was offered free labor if I buy the lights since it was out of warranty. I declined since it wasn't that big of deal to me. Then I researched it and found it was a huge prevalent deal. At the 50K service I asked to speak with service manager and the GM. After some rapport building and negotiation they offered to pay for lights if I pay for labor at the warranty labor rate. So I am paying $170 for lights instead of $600. Not the best answer as Toyota should be recalling this issue but they aren't so I am relatively happy.

 

How the truck is driven could influence the issue. I haven't had the problem but don't spend any time not moving in traffic and most of the miles are at highway speed. The additional cooling provided by moving could make a difference. If most of the problems are in congested areas you may need to factor this into the analysis.

 

Not to be a complete ass...but that is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. I live in a rural area in the Sandhills of NC. Most of my driving is at 55 mph or higher. This is a Toyota design flaw and they know it

 

I have 09 DC with two wires and melted lens.

 

No issues and I actually put silverstars in mine before I did the BHLM. 2 Wires by the way.

Definitely no issues now









Stock Lens taken out of the head light. The round circles in the middle are there from the factory.
​

 

When my first blinker burned out I just went and got a pair that said 3157/4157 on the package. Couple of weeks later the other side blinker burned out so I replaced it as well. About 6 months later I noticed the lenses were melted/cracked. I went and got some blubs that just said 3157 and put those in, not sure if it made a difference but it so far doesn't look any worse.

Is there an LED bulb that will work without having to run a separate resistor? If so what's the brand/part #?

 

I would like to know that myself as I blew a fuse with the cheap led bullshit I bought off of Amazon.

 

"CK" type LEDs will work without blowing the fuses, but you will get hyperflash without adding a resistor... and I wouldn't run a resistor on a DRL. That's a lot of heat.
Probably better just to hook up a lower wattage bulb in parallel with the LEDs and stash it under the hood where it'll stay dry and ventilated.

 

I have a friend at work that noticed mine were in the process of melting. He told me his melted and cracked the inner lens, he bought new lights, and right as the second set started to melt he replaced the bulbs w/ lower wattage ones. No issues in three years.

 

Hmmm.. hyperflash mod?

 

My advice is to report instances to your local dealer. Even if they don't fix them have them submit a product report...TMS says is a localized issue to the hotter tropical climes...ie hawaii, Florida & PR...if collectively we force the issue and report it can affect change...I do a handful a month and send in a product report and pictures...oddly none of my 2nd gens had the issue but I didn't own them long enough to find out...just my two cents

 

I had burn in on my lenses on my 2009. Not sure how many wires because I sold it. My 2013 has switchable DTRLs. I keep them off probably 98% for this reason. I just wish the DRL switch was on the other side of off.

 

How?
I don't see any switch for mine?