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Ignition - Clutch Relay switch requiring more travel

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Old 11-08-2011, 05:31 PM   #21
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No effect. It's a simple "complete-the-circuit" switch. That's all. I got no problem with 4-low.

It's a liability/safety thing. Unless you're a moron, you either push in the clutch or check the tranny is in neutral before you start any vehicle. That is, if you learned to drive on a manual trans.

edit: I'm not saying anyone is a moron - sorry if it came across that way...
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:33 PM   #22
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On my dodge I just cut the wires off the switch and soldered them together so the circuit was always closed and I didn't have to push in the clutch
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:35 PM   #23
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ive noticed this as well, guess im crawling under the dash this weekend.
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:47 PM   #24
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As I mentioned, I added a grommet/stopper I found in a cup of such things in my workshop to the end of the switch. It extends the switch about ⅜" and resolves my problem.
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Ignition - Clutch Relay switch requiring more travel-p1040908.jpg  
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:12 PM   #25
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Can you still push your clutch pedal all the way to the floor without knocking your grommet/stopper out of alignment?
I like not needing to engage the clutch at all to start the engine.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:42 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jere View Post
As I mentioned, I added a grommet/stopper I found in a cup of such things in my workshop to the end of the switch. It extends the switch about ⅜" and resolves my problem.
Good solution. Thanks for posting pics. I am going to do something similar to my company truck. For some reason, my 06 does not have this problem, but the 09 does.
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:10 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xopher65 View Post
Can you still push your clutch pedal all the way to the floor without knocking your grommet/stopper out of alignment?
I like not needing to engage the clutch at all to start the engine.
It's been on for about 5 days now, I can push the clutch to the floor, I just no longer have to bury the pedal into the carpet. This stopper thing has enough flex to absorb any extra pushing while engaging the switch at a much mor comfortable position. Time will tell how it holds up thru the winter when I often drive with insulated boots.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xopher65 View Post
I was having trouble with this too. Here's an alternate solution. The Clutch Start Switch energizes the Start Relay in the left engine compartment R/B just aft of the battery which allows +12 VDC to the starter motor. I removed that relay and jumpered pins 3 and 5 with a short wire with spade terminals. See the jumper in the picture. I should have taken a picture before relay removal. Anyway, this relay interlocks (disables) the starter +12 VDC from the ignition switch when the clutch is not fully depressed.

Also, the ECU will still only get +12 VDC when the clutch is fully depressed with the ignition switch in the start position. I don't know what the ECU does with this signal. My truck starts fine with the clutch pedal up.

This function is independent of the cruise control clutch switch.
This is awesome!!! Thank you for posting this. This works perfect and still works with my remote start.
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:50 PM   #29
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Clutch Swith Problem

I have an 07 Taco with the clutch travel getting longer with time to where it bottomed out on the floor before completing the circuit. Here it what I did: disconnected and removed the switch, took the few pieces of it apart and alcohol-cleaned the lubricant off the wiping contacts and reassembled. The inside contact length for this switch is about 3/8-1/2 inch. With time the lubricant from the plunger (where the pedal pushes) finds its way onto the contacts and prevents the sliding portion from making contact, until they push far enough to get past the lubricant. With time and spreading lubricant, the push gets longer and longer. Mine is OK
now.
If anyone has experienced a clutch master cylinder problem at the same time, or after a long time of 'bottoming out' the clutch when starting, it is possible that with the extended travel required with the 'dirty' switch contact that the clutch master cylinder may be traveling too far causing the flat neoprene washer to contact one of the brake-fluid flow holes and starting a slow deterioration of the gasket. My master cylinder failed and the cause was damage to the edge of the flat O ring.

Another post when I get the measurements done.

April 04/12: Had a look at my busted clutch master cylinder to see if the excess clutch travel could have damaged it. The answer is NO, the master cyillinder
bottoms out before its piston O-ring reaches the internal opening where the fluid exits the master cylinder. However at the other of the master cylinder travel this O-ring can rub on the opening where the fluid enters
from the brake fluid source. Don't know what the spec is but this can be avoided by not allowiing the master cylinder piston to return to its mechanical stop. The adjustment on mine is made by adjusting the threaded
cap on the backside of the pedal.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:20 PM   #30
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If you get stuck, you can put in neutral, e-brake on, push button by hand and turn on ignition. I just taped a nickel to back side of plate that is attached to clutch. I'll defeat the switch when I have more than 5 minutes :-)
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:27 PM   #31
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I never knew it was so hard to push a clutch in.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:32 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougtoms01 View Post
If you get stuck, you can put in neutral, e-brake on, push button by hand and turn on ignition. I just taped a nickel to back side of plate that is attached to clutch. I'll defeat the switch when I have more than 5 minutes :-)
Shoulda used a penny and saved 80%
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