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Ignition - Clutch Relay switch requiring more travel

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Jere, Oct 14, 2011.

  1. Nov 8, 2011 at 5:31 PM
    #21
    RainDodger

    RainDodger YGWYPF

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    None yet! It's new!
    No effect. It's a simple "complete-the-circuit" switch. That's all. I got no problem with 4-low.

    It's a liability/safety thing. Unless you're a moron, you either push in the clutch or check the tranny is in neutral before you start any vehicle. That is, if you learned to drive on a manual trans.

    edit: I'm not saying anyone is a moron - sorry if it came across that way...
     
  2. Nov 8, 2011 at 5:33 PM
    #22
    cummins6speed

    cummins6speed Well-Known Member

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    On my dodge I just cut the wires off the switch and soldered them together so the circuit was always closed and I didn't have to push in the clutch
     
  3. Nov 8, 2011 at 5:35 PM
    #23
    wildjerseyfirefighter

    wildjerseyfirefighter I sell fishing and fishing accessories

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    ive noticed this as well, guess im crawling under the dash this weekend.
     
  4. Nov 12, 2011 at 2:47 PM
    #24
    Jere

    Jere [OP] Outdoorsman

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    As I mentioned, I added a grommet/stopper I found in a cup of such things in my workshop to the end of the switch. It extends the switch about ⅜" and resolves my problem.

    P1040908.jpg
     
  5. Nov 12, 2011 at 3:12 PM
    #25
    xopher65

    xopher65 Active Member

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    Can you still push your clutch pedal all the way to the floor without knocking your grommet/stopper out of alignment?
    I like not needing to engage the clutch at all to start the engine.
     
  6. Nov 12, 2011 at 7:42 PM
    #26
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Good solution. Thanks for posting pics. I am going to do something similar to my company truck. For some reason, my 06 does not have this problem, but the 09 does.
     
  7. Nov 13, 2011 at 6:10 AM
    #27
    Jere

    Jere [OP] Outdoorsman

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    It's been on for about 5 days now, I can push the clutch to the floor, I just no longer have to bury the pedal into the carpet. This stopper thing has enough flex to absorb any extra pushing while engaging the switch at a much mor comfortable position. Time will tell how it holds up thru the winter when I often drive with insulated boots.
     
  8. Dec 17, 2011 at 5:09 PM
    #28
    PRE10

    PRE10 Well-Known Member

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    This is awesome!!! Thank you for posting this. This works perfect and still works with my remote start.
     
  9. Mar 22, 2012 at 4:50 PM
    #29
    toyomac

    toyomac New Member

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    I have an 07 Taco with the clutch travel getting longer with time to where it bottomed out on the floor before completing the circuit. Here it what I did: disconnected and removed the switch, took the few pieces of it apart and alcohol-cleaned the lubricant off the wiping contacts and reassembled. The inside contact length for this switch is about 3/8-1/2 inch. With time the lubricant from the plunger (where the pedal pushes) finds its way onto the contacts and prevents the sliding portion from making contact, until they push far enough to get past the lubricant. With time and spreading lubricant, the push gets longer and longer. Mine is OK
    now.
    If anyone has experienced a clutch master cylinder problem at the same time, or after a long time of 'bottoming out' the clutch when starting, it is possible that with the extended travel required with the 'dirty' switch contact that the clutch master cylinder may be traveling too far causing the flat neoprene washer to contact one of the brake-fluid flow holes and starting a slow deterioration of the gasket. My master cylinder failed and the cause was damage to the edge of the flat O ring.

    Another post when I get the measurements done.

    April 04/12: Had a look at my busted clutch master cylinder to see if the excess clutch travel could have damaged it. The answer is NO, the master cyillinder
    bottoms out before its piston O-ring reaches the internal opening where the fluid exits the master cylinder. However at the other of the master cylinder travel this O-ring can rub on the opening where the fluid enters
    from the brake fluid source. Don't know what the spec is but this can be avoided by not allowiing the master cylinder piston to return to its mechanical stop. The adjustment on mine is made by adjusting the threaded
    cap on the backside of the pedal.
     
  10. Oct 5, 2012 at 12:20 PM
    #30
    dougtoms01

    dougtoms01 Member

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    If you get stuck, you can put in neutral, e-brake on, push button by hand and turn on ignition. I just taped a nickel to back side of plate that is attached to clutch. I'll defeat the switch when I have more than 5 minutes :)
     
  11. Oct 5, 2012 at 12:32 PM
    #31
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Shoulda used a penny and saved 80% :D
     
  12. Jan 10, 2018 at 11:16 PM
    #32
    potterwatch_1

    potterwatch_1 New Member

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    You just saved me. Ive been trying to get my damn truck going for hours now with two of the guys i work thwith who both know trucks like the backs of their hands and nada. Look at the first thread, and boom, problem solved. Thank you so much for helping me.
     
    tacobell007[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Jan 11, 2018 at 8:02 AM
    #33
    tacobell007

    tacobell007 Western Mass Automotive Coatings

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    Glad someone found my post useful!
     
  14. Jan 21, 2018 at 9:21 PM
    #34
    bijick

    bijick such mods much want

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    Been having this problem off and on for a while. My brother borrowed my truck to move some shit, killed it (rookie), and it wouldn’t start. I took the plunger assembly off, and taped the crap out of it with electrical tape and tucked it behind the kick panel. Although I’m not a huge fan of needing no clutch to start it and for some added security, I’ll probably hook it up to a simple switch and hide it somewhere by the pedals. Nobody will be stealing your truck if you turn off it’s ability to start.
     
  15. Feb 2, 2018 at 5:00 AM
    #35
    n0+4c|u3

    n0+4c|u3 New Member

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    I did this fix yesterday after locating a switch online and realizing I could disassemble it.
    The old dielectric grease had dried leaving contact to nothing, I cleaned it out, and reassembled using new dielectric grease.
    When you have it disassembled you'll notice that there are two sets of contacts, one side unused. Assemble with the unused side towards the switch contact.
     
  16. May 9, 2018 at 5:32 AM
    #36
    Corn

    Corn Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if this switch could fail intermittently? Or if it would just fail outright?
    Possibly having an issue with this with my 2000 Tacoma. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn’t. Sometimes by lifting the pedal just a hair it will start.
     
  17. May 9, 2018 at 7:22 AM
    #37
    bijick

    bijick such mods much want

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    You can see the switch if you stick your head under there, my clutch pedal wasn’t fully depressing the switch. I ended up wiring it to a toggle switch I tucked behind my kick panel. When I’m not driving it I flip the switch and unplug the clutch start cancel and it won’t start without rolling.
     
  18. May 9, 2018 at 10:41 AM
    #38
    Corn

    Corn Well-Known Member

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    I suspect that the switch is dirty inside. I may attempt to clean the connection points in the inside before I spend $60.

    The pedal makes full contact with the switch peg, depressing it fully.
     
  19. May 9, 2018 at 11:01 AM
    #39
    bijick

    bijick such mods much want

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    OME 884’s ,Dakar hd’s, Jba uca, lce header, 4.88’s, Arb locker , j shift tcase-T4R, arb bumper, leer topper, 3500w inverter, mad wife, scratched paint, skid plates, snorkelerer, led flush mount reverse lights, etc..
    Yeah for such a simple deal I don’t think it’s worth that, could always just connect the two wires permanently as well. Just gotta make sure anyone else who drives it knows it’ll start without the clutch lol
     
  20. May 9, 2018 at 6:43 PM
    #40
    n0+4c|u3

    n0+4c|u3 New Member

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    It's a really simple fix, carefully pry the little tabs from the bottom part of the switch, without breaking them, and the whole assembly will come apart in your hand. Mine was just dirty.
     

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