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Overhead Compass/Temp Fix

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by misc, Nov 9, 2008.

  1. May 24, 2013 at 5:52 PM
    #1441
    ipso facto

    ipso facto New Member

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    I am a new member and used a thread about repairing the compass/temp display. Thank you to the individual who posted the first answer. The suggested repair worked great! It took me longer to sign up for this website and to post this than it did to make the repair. One warning. Watch those clips! they spring out and can end up anywhere!:D Oh yeah, one other warning. Use only resin core electronic solder. Acid core or the use of paste flx will corrode the connection and it will need a repair again!
     
  2. May 27, 2013 at 7:32 AM
    #1442
    bfreddyd

    bfreddyd New Member

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    3" lift
    This is my first time here so if I screw this up bare with me. Found replacement on eBay for around $150 and Toyota dealer price was not even close to reasonable, so I figured what have I got to loose and tried your suggestion. At first everything looked fine, the 510's looked perfect until I touched one and he fell off completely. So I soldiered it back on and just to make sure put some on the other 510 as well. Looks like crap but works perfectly, I am extremely grateful, this is a great site. Thanks again!:D
     
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  3. May 28, 2013 at 7:23 PM
    #1443
    Techoma

    Techoma This is the Wild, Wild, West!

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    Dirty fives on Level 8s, 4.88 gears and Harrod Locker on rear. Cab Chop x2, MBRP Cat Back Dual Exhaust w Flowmaster 44 for punch, cut off at rear axle, Throttle Body spacer, Camburg UCA and Coil-Overs, Matrix Spindle lift up front ProComp extended travel on rear w\ Dakar leafs +, Panasonic HU w Front x2 and rear x1 camera, kicker 500 powering 2 JL Audio 10" subs, JL component speakers in front doors and JL audio coaxials in rear doors powered by alpine 600 amp. Cobra all in one CB, Easy Lift hood, and Easy Down Tailgate, Pop N Lock, Dual RGB Halo Projectors, Blacked out tails with HI intensity LED's, Scanguage II, AVID Custom sliders and Hybrid rear bumper, Pelfreybilt Hybrid front, Glock Steering Column Holster, 2 Hella's behind Satoshi on Avid light Bar, Decepticon Badges, 2x 24" LED ropes and 2X 4" HI LEDs to fire up Satoshi w Super Bright green Halo's. Under Hood lighting as well as RGB rock lights. PrinSu Cab/Shell Rack with FreeSpirit hard shell RTT, 28", 2x 20", and 50" LED Bars all controlled by SwitchPros and Weathertechs front and rear.
    I'm the original owner of my 05 purchased in 08/2005. I have 104k miles... Display was dim and flickered but a smack would fix it. This went on for 6 or so months till it finally cropped out a little over a month ago. I'll do this tomorrow night. :D
     
  4. Jun 2, 2013 at 4:39 AM
    #1444
    this_is_nascar

    this_is_nascar Well-Known Member

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    Well, after doing this mod 3-times over the last couple of years, I think I cooked the board. I'll start scanning all 73-pages of this thread, but in the meantime, can someone supply my the part number for that board, so I can attempt to purchase a new one? Thanks in advance.
     
  5. Jun 2, 2013 at 4:40 AM
    #1445
    this_is_nascar

    this_is_nascar Well-Known Member

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    By the way, I have a 2007 access cab, if that matters.
     
  6. Jun 2, 2013 at 5:04 AM
    #1446
    this_is_nascar

    this_is_nascar Well-Known Member

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    Looks like the part number for my '07 is 83290-04030. Does anyone know if there's any soldering involved with going this route? What exactly is that part, just the circuit board?
     
  7. Jun 2, 2013 at 5:10 AM
    #1447
    this_is_nascar

    this_is_nascar Well-Known Member

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    $121.46 shipped is the cheapest I've found so far for the upgraded component. Apparently, it includes the entire assembly, including board, smoked-lens, etc. It makes for a simple swap-out, by removing those 3-screws and replacing with this module. I think I'll go this route, but will continue to price-shop.
     
  8. Jun 2, 2013 at 6:19 AM
    #1448
    this_is_nascar

    this_is_nascar Well-Known Member

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    $116.99 shipped is the lowest so far.
     
  9. Jun 2, 2013 at 1:43 PM
    #1449
    this_is_nascar

    this_is_nascar Well-Known Member

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    Went with the $116.99 shipped one from eBay. It's brand new and the updated version. It will be nice not having to dick around with this anymore. Considering I'm not the best with a soldering iron, this was the right thing for me.
     
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  10. Jun 4, 2013 at 4:24 PM
    #1450
    this_is_nascar

    this_is_nascar Well-Known Member

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    Received, installed, set and calibrated. I'm a happy camper. It's great that you guys who can solder are doing OK with this fix. It worked for me for sometime, but I think I burnt it up with the last attempted fix. That's on me. That's why I went this route. Hats off to all you guys that make this possible. The tips, techniques and knowledge your have and share is awesome.
     
  11. Jun 4, 2013 at 5:19 PM
    #1451
    kwade

    kwade Member

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    My Temp Gauge/Compass quit too.
    Disassembly revealed that one 510 was nearly MIA.

    th_510ResistorPerpendicular_zps4427cdcd_85a7c012d4dcc46abb58cea7e026b20bc55ef006.jpg

    Using the info in this thread, I removed it and tacked it back in place.
    Then added more solder to BOTH 510s so that they should stay.

    Thank you.
     
  12. Jun 6, 2013 at 2:52 PM
    #1452
    Iluvtacos

    Iluvtacos Active Member

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    6" procomp lift, grillecraft grille, painted vent shades, 33" procomp extreme AT tires, Moto Metal wheels, Fabtech side steps, Shocker classic train horn, about ten more things which I can't remember
    The 510 resistors looked fine to naked eye. They even looked good under a magnifine glass but they were the problem. After dissassembly plug back in vehicle and press on the 510's. Started working again. Soldered all 4 places and saved myself $30 to $100 by doing it myself.
    THANK YOU - to pioneers who first encounter the problem, write it down and post it here.
     
  13. Jun 7, 2013 at 6:58 AM
    #1453
    knotty

    knotty Well-Known Member

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    just had to do this to mine yesterday !!! thanks for the write up !
     
  14. Jun 7, 2013 at 9:57 AM
    #1454
    impostor

    impostor Active Member

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    Mine is acting weird. In winter (Chicago), it won't work. No display. Just a few weeks ago, when the temps climbed back up to 60's, it started working again. :/ Not sure if I should yank it out to do this fix or not.
     
  15. Jun 7, 2013 at 11:32 AM
    #1455
    knotty

    knotty Well-Known Member

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    i would it would't hurt !
     
  16. Jun 7, 2013 at 3:37 PM
    #1456
    45longcolt

    45longcolt Well-Known Member

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    Yank it and apply solder to both sides of both the 510 resistors. That will fix it. Watch for those clips, they spring out all over the place.
     
  17. Jun 10, 2013 at 9:21 AM
    #1457
    impostor

    impostor Active Member

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    Roger that! Thanks for the tip!
     
  18. Jun 13, 2013 at 11:40 AM
    #1458
    kwade

    kwade Member

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    That is *how* mine began!
    Last fall, it was intermittent.
    This spring, dead!
     
  19. Jun 15, 2013 at 3:56 PM
    #1459
    06TacoGSXR

    06TacoGSXR Member

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    I drove my new to me Tacoma home today and immediately took off the overhead compass/temp sensor. I tackled my first chip soldering today with the $3.99 gun from harbor freight. We'll see how it holds up!
     
  20. Jun 16, 2013 at 7:21 PM
    #1460
    PilotDen

    PilotDen Member

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    Simply pull the unit and solder the 510s. I suspect the cold weather shrinks the contacts creating a disconnect and your heater doesn't warm it long enough to reestablish the connection until the weather warms. As others stated, it doesn't hurt to do the repair.

    On soldering, the key is using a pencil point soldering iron. Cheap at Harbor Freight and other places. Place a dab of solder on the tip of the iron and touch that to the solder joint until it melts and reforms. I like to waft back and forth over the joint rather that apply too much heat in one place. Resistors are hardier than other components but none like too much heat. Don't "bridge" other circuits with too much solder.
     

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