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Need Help. Removing Driver Side CV Axle!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by bjmoose, Nov 6, 2011.

  1. Nov 12, 2011 at 11:40 AM
    #21
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    I've greased the splines, the spindle is swung out of the way.

    What exactly do you mean by "centered" on the c-clip?
     
  2. Nov 12, 2011 at 11:56 AM
    #22
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    the funny thing is the rear axle splines slide in with a relative minumum of fuss (by comparison)

    what's the difference on the fronts? the presence of the c clip?
     
  3. Nov 12, 2011 at 12:11 PM
    #23
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    Edit: thicker the axle grease, the better.
     
  4. Nov 12, 2011 at 12:15 PM
    #24
    wikid

    wikid Well-Known Member

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    Here is a tip about removing the cv axle, without having to pry the c clip from inside the clam shell.
    A piece of cable from home depot, with eyelets on both sides. make a noose around the inner cv axle collar and put a small sledge on the outer eyelet and give it a pull/tap out, to release the c clip
    It takes the getting under the truck and prying the axle out of the equation :bigthumb::bigthumb:

    I actually made one for my trail tools repair bag .
    IMG_0647_72e47c97c9d42ff3857b999ca17e0993f67b4314.jpg

    If you don't believe it works, check out this thread on the FJ Cruisers forum. The results are positive

    http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...nge-cv-axle-when-using-jacks-jack-stands.html
     
  5. Nov 12, 2011 at 12:15 PM
    #25
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    Notice how the cclip can bounce around on the stude with splines? It needs to be centered, if its off one way the stude won't fit, and the cclip will catch on the ring of the diff. The cclip snaps into place to hold axle in. It is needed. Its easiest if you can slide the entire cv axe straight into the diff, and keep it centered.
     
  6. Nov 12, 2011 at 12:37 PM
    #26
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Steve, with reference to the c clip, make sure the opening of the c clip is verticle and open at the top of the axle. Gravity helps. This is MUCH easier with 2 people, but can be done with one. If you have to people, have your helper hold the axle strait and push it into the differential. Then you positition your pry bar and whap the shit out of it like this:

    [​IMG]


    If you still can't get it, give me a call. My mom should be home in a bit and she can watch my little one and I'll run over there and can give you a hand.
     
  7. Nov 12, 2011 at 12:53 PM
    #27
    stmpjmpr

    stmpjmpr Well-Known Member

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    subd since i need to replace my driver side front axle.
     
  8. Nov 12, 2011 at 1:05 PM
    #28
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    Hmm. Factory service manual says open at the bottom. But that's sure not working. :D

    Right. Increasing the amount of force I'm using...

    Hmmm, thanks. It's 1PM now - If I haven't got even one in by 3PM, I'll take you up on that...
     
  9. Nov 12, 2011 at 2:27 PM
    #29
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    switched over to driver side for a change - got it in less than 10 minutes.

    5 minutes of celebration then back to that M__f__er passenger side...
     
  10. Nov 12, 2011 at 2:49 PM
    #30
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    It's good practice. ;)
    Now that you have a front locker, you might want to have an axle and the tools needed in your truck as a spare when wheeling.
     
  11. Nov 12, 2011 at 3:19 PM
    #31
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    Thick axle grease helps keep it in place :D
     
  12. Nov 13, 2011 at 12:21 PM
    #32
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    Jason came over and helped me out.

    He wiped the grease off the end of the CV and looked at the axle - I'd flattened the splines by hammering so there was no way it was going back on.

    Phoned around to find a remanufactured CV and picked it up.

    The insight is to have it in 4wd so the bearings in the diff don't turn. This allows the splines on the CV axle to be lined up with the spline gaps in the diff bearing. Then once they're lined up by feel - and the axle is held in place so it doesn't move - it took exactly *one* tap o the hammer to send it home.

    Thanks again. :D
     
    Crom likes this.
  13. Apr 28, 2012 at 9:16 AM
    #33
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    Crom likes this.
  14. Aug 11, 2012 at 6:33 AM
    #34
    Gregman

    Gregman Well-Known Member

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    Nice thread, thanks for the tips.
     
  15. Aug 11, 2012 at 8:05 AM
    #35
    Hurtin Albertan

    Hurtin Albertan Free Man

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    Subbed for reference
     
  16. Feb 12, 2014 at 2:38 PM
    #36
    faller

    faller Active Member

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    Bilstein 5100's @ 0.85, Toytec/Eibach coils, 1.5" AAL fbconvert's DIY AUX Input
    I did this a while ago. In case anybody else is using this for reference, I did what another forum user recommended, which is attach 1 claw on a slide hammer to the notch on the CV shaft near the diff with a large hose clamp. Didn't take much force at all because you get a good solid purchase on the shaft and a nice parallel angle. Hope this helps someone because it wasn't a fun job.
     
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  17. Feb 12, 2014 at 2:43 PM
    #37
    Manwithoutaplan

    Manwithoutaplan the full Monty

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    -Nitro 4.56 gears - Arb Front and Rear lockers. -Rear Swing out bumper Curiosity of ( Dept .94) https://www.facebook.com/Dept94 -Tinted, -ProComp 6 inch lift with Icon Coil overs and Bilstein's 7100Resi -315/70/17 - 17x8 in Pro Comp Matte black rims 4.5 bs -East Coast Gear Supply Sliders -ALL Pro EXP LEaf pack -Camburg UCA's -CAB mount CHOP
    well done :thumbsup:

    sub'd
     
  18. Feb 12, 2014 at 3:58 PM
    #38
    wikid

    wikid Well-Known Member

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    it looks like I l already posted this suggestion nevermind
     
  19. Feb 4, 2017 at 1:53 PM
    #39
    Rames

    Rames Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the tips, I was reinstalling the cv this morning. It does helps a lot to have a second person hold the the axle straight and then using a pry bar and hammer with one good hit to reseat the c-clip in. It went from a 1 hr process to 5 mins
     
  20. Dec 24, 2018 at 4:40 PM
    #40
    TurtleTruckTraveler

    TurtleTruckTraveler Well-Known Member

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    Resurrecting this, but for a good cause! I pulled my driver's side CV today and it didn't have the nice grooves on the tulip so it was a real SOB. I liked the wire noose slide hammer trick, and tried reproducing it with a loop of 1/8" dia spectra (dyneema, vectran, any hi-strength low stretch piece of line would work) and some chain but couldn't get it to budge so I wrapped the chain around the nose of my hi-lift jack and was able to use that with the jack's base against the frame right behind the coil to lever the thing out. I set a 2x4 underneath the CV to help keep it inline on the way out. Was awkward and definitely still takes two people but once it popped and started moving it was smooth sailing.
     

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