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OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

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Old 12-18-2011, 02:11 AM   #1
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Post OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod



This is a guide to install Toyota Sienna heated side mirrors and a Toyota Highlander switch. I wanted an almost 100% OEM solution for heated mirrors that was safe, relatively easy, and efficient. I will list all necessary parts and tools as well as prices and links below.

Note: This is the install I put together after much research on TW and helpful input from other members. Thanks to tsilliker, shawnd2, CtryBoyInMT, 84Hilux, bgreenley, and OldEric11 for the innovative ideas, answers, suggestions, and assistance.

The whole project took me about 9 hours, but it could probably be done in 5-6 hours if I were to do it again.

I am not going to waste my time posting pics and instructions on how to take your doors and dash apart. There are numerous posts, pics, videos on here for guides, like this one that explains how to take the door panels off. Here is another link from shawnd2 that is great step-by-step for removing the door panels and the mirror housing http://www.muthco.com/epapers/21001150.pdf (sorry there are no bikini-clad women, just some guy's man-hands)

This is a long thread with lots of detail and pictures. I do not in any way consider myself to be an electrical expert, and I accept no responsibility for any harm, damage, or injury that comes from anyone attempting this mod. If you have any suggestions or improvements, please feel free to leave civilized comments, or PM me.

PARTS NEEDED: Most of this stuff can be found at your local auto store and Toyota dealer. I like to support true local businesses, but you can save some money by ordering on line if you prefer.

*UPDATE* The 2012 Highlander Heated Mirror Glass works as a Direct Replacement for the '05-'13 Tacoma (thus eliminating the need to transfer/modify the plastic backplate if using the Sienna mirrors - thanks to File IFR for the info. )

*UPDATE*For the guys without "switch-blanks" near the steering wheel (TRD-OR models), SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM. Member bgreenley did a great write-up on how to add an OEM switch under the HVAC control with a timer-relay, and super clean install instructions. - THANKS BRANDON!!!


Toyota Highlander Mirror Left Part No. 87961-0E070 = $50
Toyota Highlander Mirror Right Part No. 87931-0E080 = $50
*(see above) Toyota Sienna Heated Mirror Left Part No. 87961-AE020 = $50
*(see above) Toyota Sienna Heated Mirror Right Part No. 87931-AE020 = $50
Toyota Highlander Mirror Switch Part No. 84871-48030 = $60
Toyota Amber Bulb (optional) Part No. 90011-01058 = $4
Toyota Highlander Mirror Switch plugPart No. 90980-10789 = $5
Toyota Terminal Leads (x5) Part No. 82998-12340 = $5/ea.
($30)
10 Amp ATM Fuse Tap = $7
SPST or SPDT Relay = $3
SPST or SPDT Plug= $1
14-16 gauge QuickSplices (x3) = $3
14-16 gauge butt connectors (x4) = $1 +/-
14-16 gauge 1/4" Ring Terminals (x3) = $1 +/-
.110" 16 gauge Female Spade Terminals
(x4) = $1 +/-
.187" 16-22 gauge Male/Female Terminals (x2) = $1 +/-
30' 16 AWG Primary Wire (various colors) = $6
HeatShrink Tubing (various sizes) = $4

TOTAL $204 (give or take a few bucks)

TOOLS NEEDED:
Wire Cutters
Wire Crimpers
Wire Strippers
Needle Nose Pliers
Large Philips head screwdriver
Various Flathead screwdrivers (from Micro to Large)
Soldering Iron (optional)
Panel Removal Tool (wrapped in electrical tape)
Various Zipties
Electrical Tape
Corrugated Conduit (optional)
Coathanger or Wirepuller
Scissors and/or Utility Knife
Torx Bit driver or Wrench
Dremel type hand-tool
Vise-Grips
10mm Socket
LIGHT!!!

APPROX. WIRE LENGTHS

Driver's +12v Mirror Lead (.110" Female spade to Quick-Splice to Relay 87) = 60"

Passenger +12v Mirror Lead (.110" Female spade to Quick-Splice) = 140"
Mirror Ground Leadsx2 (.110" Female spade to 1/4" ring terminal) = 30"/each
Fuse-Tap (Quick-Splice from Switch #5 Lead to Fuse-Taps butt connector)= 8"
(5) Switch +12v Lead (Sumitomo to butt connector to Relay 30) = 24"
(4) Switch (Sumitomo to butt connector to Relay 85) = 24"
(3) Switch Ground(Sumitomo to 1/4" ring terminal) = 13"
(2) Switch (Sumitomo to .187" female spade) = 5"
(1) Switch (Sumitomo to .187" female spade) = 5"



STEP 1: Unplug the battery then Remove Mirror Glass

Gently press on the top of your mirror glass to create a gap on the bottom. You can slide a flat-head in the gap and into the small recessed areas of the white mount plate. "Pop" the glass out from the mount plate and pull down and out to remove.





STEP 2:
Remove the Backplates from all mirrors (2x Tacoma, 2x Sienna)


*UPDATE* The 2012 Highlander Heated Mirror Glass works as a Direct-Replacement for the Tacoma (thus eliminating the need to transfer/modify the plastic backplate if using the Sienna mirrors - thanks to File IFR for the info. )


Toyota Highlander Mirror Left Part No. 87961-0E070 = $50
Toyota Highlander Mirror Right Part No. 87931-0E080 = $50


I recommend heating the black plastic with a hairdryer to make it more pliable. Then use an expendable credit card to separate the glass from the backplate. The Tacoma glass has a foam pad behind it that is slightly adhesive. The Sienna glass has a "sticky-tack" type of putty in various areas behind it.





SIENNA MIRROR ON THE LEFT---------------------------TACOMA MIRROR ON THE RIGHT



STEP 3:
WIDEN THE HOLE!!!


The hole on the Tacoma backplate is too small to accommodate the terminal leads on the Sienna mirror and will need to be widened with a Dremel or file.






When putting the Sienna mirrors in the Tacoma backplate, I left the white putty on the Passenger Side to give it a more convex view. I didn't need any foam or putty on the driver's side, but you can add some at your discretion.



STEP 4:
ASSEMBLE YOUR CIRCUIT

I followed these directions from CtryBoyInMT and they worked fine. He updated his diagram to explain in more detail the correct relay setup. Thanks for the clarification!



The Sumitomo Terminals fit perfectly. The 16ga. wire was very snug, and I would not recommend going any bigger than that.




I had to splice into the Illumination Dimmer wires from the Fog Light switch in order to connect the #1 & #2 Switch Plugs. I followed the wire layout on the Fog Light switch and used SOLID GREEN for Plug #1, and GREEN w/WHITE for Plug #2.



I soldered the splices and used .187" Male/Female quick-connect terminals and heat shrinked everything.




STEP 5:
RUN THE MIRROR LEADS

Disassemble the door panels, kick panels, dash, and glove box, and unplug all necessary connectors. Remove the speaker from each door. Unplug the mirror plugs.

There are numerous posts, pics, videos on here to refer to for this. This one explains how to take the door panels off. Here is another link from shawnd2 that is great step-by-step for removing the door panels and the mirror housing http://www.muthco.com/epapers/21001150.pdf (sorry there are no bikini-clad women, just some guy's man-hands)


Remove the mirror assembly from each door and disassemble.
The plug-cover will need to be removed in order to fit it through the openings.



Take note the orientation of the plastic protective sheath around the wires. it will be easier to re-assemble the mirror housing if it's not all kinked up. I chose to run the wires inside the plastic shielded sheath with the rest of the wires, but most people will probably just run them along the sheath.


I used .110" Female Spade terminals to plug connect to the Sienna mirror tab terminals. I fed both leads through the shield, and heat shrinked the sh*t out of them since they will be the most exposed component.




After weaseling the leads through the mirror assembly, and putting it back together, make sure you have at least 7 1/2" hanging out for mirror plug in the door (don't forget to slip the clip back on the plug either).


I crimped a 1/4" Ring Terminal on each 30" mirror Ground lead. I then grounded each mirror to this bolt inside the door.



Next, feed the +12v mirror lead through the door and into the cab. After about 15 minutes of struggling with a taped-up hangar, I found it was much easier to "unplug" both sides of the boot. I taped some extra length of Zip-Tie to my wire, fed it through, and plugged the boot back in....easy


Note:
For the passenger side, I wrapped the lead in 3/8" black plastic conduit, and ran it along the silver frame tube behind the dash, and used some Zip-Ties along the way.



STEP 6:
INSTALL YOUR CIRCUIT

I mounted my relay here (there's an open hole on a metal mount up and to the left of the brake pedal). I had an 5-Pin SPDT Relay, so I disconnected terminal 87a (RED) since it was not needed, and used 87 (YELLOW) only.



I borrowed one of the plastic retainers from the hood release cable, and put my driver's side +12v lead in it.






Here is where I mounted the Ground for the Switch (#3 Plug)



The Switch is ready to be plugged in





Here is the Fuse Tap. I tapped into the "Gauges" fuse and had to make sure I had room, since the orientation of the Fuse Tap is important. I added a 10A fuse (might be overkill), and had to install a 7.5A fuse for the "Gauges" Circuit. This is an ignition controlled circuit, and my heated mirrors will only work when the ignition is turned ON. The switch itself has a 15 minute timer, so it will turn off after 15 minutes, or if you press the button again or turn the ignition off. BE AWARE - The standard fuses are Low-Profile ATM fuses, whereas the Fuse Tap takes standard ATM fuses. (the diagrams I had on here were deleted, sorry)




I connected an 8" Lead from the Fuse-Tap butt connector to the Quick-Splice from the #5 Switch Lead (which also ties into Relay 86 & 30).

Give all wires a good once over. Tape, Zip-Tie, use conduit as much as desired, make sure everything looks safe and secure. Plug everything in, re-assemble the dash, instrument panel, doors, kick panels etc. Re-Connect your battery, turn on the ignition.



CRACK OPEN A COLD ONE AND ENJOY YOUR TOASTY MIRRORS!!!!

http://youtu.be/j1fvnj0Ux4Q




>>>*UPDATE* FOR THE THOSE WITH TRD-OR TACOS (with no switch blanks) <<<

So, a new member
bgreenley (Brandon) contacted me regarding my inquiry to find a solution for TRD OR trucks that don't have switch blank by the steering wheel. We went back and forth bouncing ideas off each-other, trying to piece together a method that would work. He put together this awesome write-up as a supplemental addition to the OEM Heated Mirror Mod! Original Thread located HERE (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...d-package.html)

Mad props to
bgreenley for putting this together, and making it work. Make sure to give him some rep, and welcome him as a new TW Member!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreenley View Post
First post so I thought it should be a good one.

The only problem with the OEM switch option described by BensonX is that for those of us with the off-road package, there are no empty switch locations to the left of the steering wheel. With guidance from BensonX, I set out to solve the problem and came up with the following solution that uses a factory 4-runner switch (wiper de-icer) and mounts it down near the shifter (under the HVAC controls).

Parts

The switch is properly called “wiper-deicer” switch, but most online retailers have the description as listed above. Despite the description, the part # is correctly the wiper deicer switch from a 4-runner. The above were purchased from toyotapartszone.com, but you can find them elsewhere.

Plug for back of switch: 90980-12366, $4 @ local dealer
Toyota terminals for plug: 82998-24290, $15/ea @ dealer, $11.50/ea online (need 5)

There is no way I was going to spend $57 for pre-wired plug terminals (5x$11.50) so I looked for options. Here are the right Sumitomo terminals to use for this plug, but as you can see, the MOQ is 1000pcs. I could not find them anywhere.


Since I couldn’t find the right terminals, I studied the Sumitomo documentation and decided to try the terminal for their “sealed” version of the TS 025 connector. It turns out they will work. I bought 10 in case I messed some up, but you only need 5 for the installation. They are $0.34/ea despite the unit price listed below. You can order as many or as few as you want for $0.34/ea, but shipping is $8.00 so I ordered a few extra to be safe.


Lastly, the magic timer-relay: http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/tdr-mc.php


You can read about the timer relay above by following this link:
http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/timedelayrelay.php
The timer relay is offered in many flavors. The correct flavor to order for this application is the TDR-MLC. This circuit, wired as shown below, will allow you to turn on the mirrors with a single press of the button. If you press the button again before the timer expires, it will cancel your request for the mirrors to be heated. This is really cool, and exactly the way most OEM installations are done. You don’t need another relay in addition to the TDR-MLC. It will drive the mirrors directly. The TDR-MLC can drive 10A continuous current, and each of the mirrors only consumes about 2A each (I bench tested them).

Here is a schematic for the wiper-deicer switch and a real picture of the switch:



The switch is keyed (you can see the two ribs on the left side in the photo above) to fit in a particular opening. You may have to shave off the keys on the switch depending on which slot you put the switch in. Mine went in the far right and I had to remove the top key on the left side and the only key on the right side in order to insert it into the opening.

One thing to note about the switch plug and terminals: The fit was extremely tight with 20 gauge wire. I would not use 20 gauge again if I could do it over. None of the circuits on the switch draw any substantial current so 22 or 24 gauge wire is fine.

Despite some rumors, the switch does NOT have a built in timer. It’s simply a momentary contact switch with an indicator light and OEM-style backlight that ties to the factory dimmer circuit.


The schematic for wiring this into the truck is below:



A more physical representation of the above schematic is:

**Note this method requires both mirror terminals be routed into the cab. You cannot locally ground the mirrors in the door, it must be wired as shown above.

The dimmer terminals can be tapped behind any of the factory lighted switches. I tapped the terminals of the nearby “A-Trac” switch. Regardless of which switch you use to tap the dimmer circuit, the dimmer + is the dark green wire, and the dimmer – is the green with white stripe. According to the wiring diagrams, this color convention is consistent throughout the vehicle.

Before you install the TDR-MLC, you need to adjust the delay. The delay can be adjusted on the TDR-MLC according to the directions here http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/basic-instructions.php, but I’ll save you the reading. Out of the box, the only thing you need to do for the TDR-MLC to work in our application is turn the screw labeled “0” on the back of the relay clockwise 12 turns. This will give you almost exactly 15 min of delay before turning off. See the figure below.


Everything works great, but there is one detail I can nit-pick with this selection of parts. That is the color of the backlight for the wiper-deicer switch. It’s a red-orange color, but the rest of my switches are green for my model year at least (2012). Here are a couple photos of the switch, one at night showing the difference in color between the A-Trac switch and this new switch. The picture at night shows it more yellow than it really is. It’s almost red, but the color just didn’t come through. Nevertheless, you can see they are not the same. I have ordered a green LED to replace the one in the switch, but have not received the parts yet. I’ll update once I get pics with the new LED.





I think that's it. How did I do for my first post to TW? You guys set a pretty high bar

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Old 12-18-2011, 04:30 AM   #2
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Great job with the write up and in cleaning up the pages of the other thread.
The only thing I might add to your above write up is this link:

http://www.muthco.com/epapers/21001150.pdf

It shows step by step how to remove the door panels and how to disassemble the mirrors in order to run the wires.

I apologize in advance for cluttering up your cleaned version.

Shawn
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:58 AM   #3
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This is sticky worthy. Mods please do so.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:22 AM   #5
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Subbd.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:35 AM   #7
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great write up i will be doing this for sure....subed for later
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caribe makaira View Post
By using pin 87a instead of pin 87 on the relay you have juice to the mirrors as soon as you turn on the vehicle, since you are tapping into a switched circuit.

That negates the switch function. Your schematic shows that essentially when you select the switch you are turning OFF the heat for 15 min then when timer is up the circuit has juice again....
There is only one 87 terminal on a 4 terminal relay shown. Why try and confuse things?

Shawn
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:47 AM   #9
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Hey,
If I am wrong, I will gladly retract.

Take a look a page 9:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf

Shawn
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnd2 View Post
Great job with the write up and in cleaning up the pages of the other thread.
The only thing I might add to your above write up is this link:

http://www.muthco.com/epapers/21001150.pdf

It shows step by step how to remove the door panels and how to disassemble the mirrors in order to run the wires.

I apologize in advance for cluttering up your cleaned version.

Shaen
Good suggestion, added. I have the TacoTunes video on there, but I hadn't seen this Muth write-up. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by caribe makaira View Post
By using pin 87a instead of pin 87 on the relay you have juice to the mirrors as soon as you turn on the vehicle, since you are tapping into a switched circuit.

That negates the switch function. Your schematic shows that essentially when you select the switch you are turning OFF the heat for 15 min then when timer is up the circuit has juice again....
In theory you're correct, but the system works just as it's supposed to as it is. I just converted an SPDT Relay to an SPST relay as used in CtryBoyInMT's wiring diagram. With the ignition off, there's no power to the mirrors, and the switch doesn't function. Ignition on and switch on, the mirrors will be heated for 15 minutes, unless you press the switch again or turn the car off. I don't know a nicer way to say that you're incorrect, and it works just fine the way I did it.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caribe makaira View Post
Do all of us a favor, just turn the vehicle on, and place your hand on the mirror...don't touch the heater switch...or better yet maybe you did install the connector to the relay correctly but your drawing is incorrect.

ShawnD2 - Benson X did not convert or use a four prong relay. The circuit and pic shows constant juice by using the 87a.

I see what you are saying, and I wasn't trying to be a prick, just wanted to keep things simple and not deter people from doing this mod.

The schematics shows to use 87b (not 87a). If you look at the OP's picture, he is using the Yellow wire on the socket which goes to 87, not 87a.

See attached pic.

Shawn
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:21 AM   #12
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Sorry Pic didn't upload, see attached.

Shawn
Attached Thumbnails
OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod-relay.jpg  
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caribe makaira View Post
Do all of us a favor, just turn the vehicle on, and place your hand on the mirror...don't touch the heater switch...or better yet maybe you did install the connector to the relay correctly but your drawing is incorrect.

ShawnD2 - Benson X did not convert or use a four prong relay. The circuit and pic shows constant juice by using the 87a.
Caribe - Here's a video I just took showing the switch operating properly. I think you were confused because I listed 87a as my powered lead, when in fact it was 87. I edited my post to indicate that I used #87 (YELLOW) only, and I removed the 87a (RED) lead from the relay plug itself. Hopefully this will avoid further confusion.

http://youtu.be/j1fvnj0Ux4Q
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:46 AM   #14
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Nicely Done!

Expertly done!! Sub'd for future mod list!
Thanks for the write up!!
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:48 AM   #15
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sup. me likely allot!!
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:28 AM   #16
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Subbed! I want to do this.
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Old 12-18-2011, 01:31 PM   #17
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Name: Len
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Awesome write up.. Got my switch, will order the mirrors soon. The rest of the stuff I will get from work for almost free. I'm excited!

I am a mechanic for a semi truck dealership up here in Canada. On the big trucks there are usually a few open spots in the fuse panel with dead ended wires throughout the vehicle to add accessories like lights etc. I'm assuming our trucks don't have this or is it just easier to use the add-a-fuse?

Thanks guys...
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:21 PM   #18
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CtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shedCtryBoyInMT is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Additional Relay Information:

87 and 87b is NO (Normally Open)
87a is NC (Normally Closed)

On various relays the "87b" may be coded "87" if only one NO terminal is present.
The schematic drawn on you specific relay may be confusing.
The NC terminal is generally located in the center most terminal (if there is one) and is not used in this application.
Even though the diagram on your specific relay itself may show it to be on the outside terminal.
Compare your relay and make sure you have proper terminals wired.
And Questions please ask and I (Or BensonX I assume) will guide you to the heat.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:11 AM   #19
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puckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shedpuckstopper55 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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this is awesome, but I wont attempt until the spring .. its too cold outside .. If anyone wants to make a few $, order some parts and sell "kits". Id spend an extra few to make a 1 stop order.
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