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step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

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Old 12-19-2011, 08:22 PM   #1
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Exclamation step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

Since I needed to remove my 3rd member again to replace another broken set of ring and pinion gears. I decided to make a little set by step write up of how to remove and re-install a e-locker 3rd member.

The overall process and method to remove/install a e-locker 3rd member is fairly easy. I feel just about anyone with the proper and the right tools can do so with out using too many curse words or having any busted knuckles lol.




In order to get started, you should have the following tools and supplies to make your life easy:


drain pan or bucket
brake clean/parts cleaner spray can
shop towels
ultra grey rtv silicone gasket maker
3 quarts oil- Lucas 85w140 Dyno oil is what EastCoastGearSupply recommends
zipties
paint marker
small pocket screw driver
regular size screwdriver
12mm wrench
14mm wrench x2
12mm socket
14mm socket
24mm socket
ratchet driver
lug-nut tool
2 jack stands
hydraulic floor jack
choke block

First thing that should be done is to place a wheel choke in front of one of the tires to help secure your taco when it gets jacked up. Now, place a hydraulic jack under the rear differentail and jack that sucker up so you can place your jack stands in place along the frame rail. Don't forget to remove the rear wheels as well. Do the obvious thing and make sure you are working on a nice level flat surface so nobody get hurts.

Don't be like this guy:



The proper way:




Once everything is up in the air and sitting on jack stands the next step will be to drain the gear oil from the differential. This stuff is stinky. Some of the special additives used in gear oil is Sulphur-Phosphorous and that is what causes the smell.

Using a 24mm socket, remove both the fill plug and drain plug:


In the Toyota Factory Service Manual it states to remove the brake lines at the drum brakes. I skip that step and i have created my own shortcut that saves precious time. This shortcut keeps the brake lines intact and you won't have to bleed the brakes as a final step when re-installing the 3rd member.

What I do is I remove the brake line hangers along the axle housing. This allows me to pull out the axles far enough in order to remove the 3rd member.

Using a 12mm socket or wrench remove these brake line hanger bolts:


Remove the e-brake hanger from both sides:


It's now time to remove the ABS sensors. You should be careful when removing the sensors. You must use a small flat tip screwdriver, there is a little tiny clip inside that you must press down in order to pull each sensor. Using a pocket screwdriver makes your life so much easier when doing this.

Using a pocket screwdriver to press down on the clip, you have to press down on the clip and pull at the same time:


Now it's time to remove the drive shaft from the 3rd member. You will need (2) 14mm wrenches and a paint marker or something similar for marking. Sometimes when connecting the drive shaft back and in the wrong place can lead to drive line vibrations. That's why it's always a good idea to mark exactly where it was connected to the flange.

Mark a spot on the drive shaft and pinion flange like so using a paint marker:


Using (2) 14mm wrenches remove the 4 bolts that secures the drive shaft to the pinion flange:


I like to ziptie the drive shaft around the muffler hanger to keep the drive shaft out of the way:
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:22 PM   #2
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Exclamation step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

The next step is to remove the e-locker motor assembly .

Using a 12mm socket or wrench, remove the nuts securing the cover:


Once you have that little cover off it's time to remove two electrical connectors from the e-locker motor.

Remove the two electrical connectors by squeezing the tabs while pulling out at the same time:


Remove the two remaining nuts to the e-locker motor and pull the assembly out:


This next step is vital. It is key to removing the 3rd member form the housing. If you forget to do this step there won't be enough room to pull out the 3rd member and it will stay stuck

Using a flat tip screwdriver, move the e-locker engagement fork towards the center of the 3rd member:





Side Note: If you are ever on the trail and your e-locker is not engaging for whatever reason but you really need it to. You can remove the e-locker motor assembly by following the above steps. And you can engage it or even disengage it by hand. it's a quick trail fix that i have done myself.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:23 PM   #3
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Exclamation step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

Time to get ready to remove the 3rd member from the housing.

Using a 12mm socket, remove the nuts and washers that secures the 3rd member to the housing:


Once you have all of the nuts and washers removed from the studs, it's time to get ready and separate the axles from the housing. You will need a 14mm wrench for this step. Be carefull when pulling out the axles so you don't tear or mare the axle seals.

Using a 14mm wrench, remove the 4 nuts on each side of the axle:


Once you have the nuts removed, pull out the axles away from the housing. You need to pull the axles out a good 3-4 inches away from the housing. You will have to use some force while doing this. You will also notice that the brake lines are pulling out some but that's ok. everything will go back together as normal. i promise lol.

Pull the axles away from the housing at least 3-4 inches and place something as a spacer to keep the axles away from the housing. I use large deep 1/2" sockets as my spacers:


Once you have the axles separated from the housing you can now remove the 3rd member form the housing. It's heavy so you will need both hands to do so. It takes a little wiggling to get that sucker out. If you have the axles out far enough the 3rd should eventually wiggle out. Be careful not to drop the 3rd. member on yourself, that sucker weighs around 62lbs.

Wiggle the 3rd. member while pulling away from the axle housing:


You are done if you have successfully pulled out the 3rd member.


Side Note: In the case of waiting for parts or even a new 3rd for any amount of time, go ahead and slide the axles back into place. This will help in keeping the wieght of the axle and drum brakes off of the axle seal so they won't be damaged.



Once you have the 3rd out go ahead and inspect the splines on the inner axle shafts just to make sure they are not twisted.



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Old 12-19-2011, 08:23 PM   #4
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instructions for re-installing the 3rd member coming soon
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:23 PM   #5
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Here's a picture of the gears that I broke last Saturday coming back from the TW 626/909 meet at the Hat. It broke while I was accelerating from a just turned green light. Soon as I got on the gas I heard the infamous PING and I knew right away what it was. This is now my 4th ring and pinion gear set that has broken.

This set is my original 3rd member with the OEM 3.73 gears




This 3rd member broke in July while I was backing out of my driveway. On this gear set the pinion gear broke, the ring gears looks prestine.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:25 PM   #6
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Still haven't managed to figure out why marking the shaft is necessary...

Good writeup. This info needs to be out there...one of the most common failures if these trucks are used as trucks.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:30 PM   #7
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meh..i hit post reply by accident instead of reviwe reply...im not done with my write up yet.

but to answer your question about marking the drive shaft..

Quote:
Basically, a universal joint is not a constant velocity joint. When you have a driveshaft that is separated by 2 ujoints, and there is an angle at the ujoints, if the tires are rotating at a constant velocity, and the engine/transmission are rotating at a constant velocity, the driveshaft will actually speed up and slow down each time it goes through its 360 degrees of motion. This is why it is critical that the angles at the transfer case and at the rear end are the same - to cancel out this change in rotational velocity. So, when you have a spline between the ujoints, it is important that they get put back in place "in phase" as was stated by one of the other posters. Take a look at any 1-piece drive shaft, like on the back of a YJ, and you will see the ujoints are in phase.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyProof View Post
but to answer your question about marking the drive shaft..
The driveshaft is already phased correctly from factory and the stock flanges only allow it to be bolted on in the correct orientation (not that it matters too much - the output shaft of the tranny, pinion of the rear diff, and DS are all rotary items; so long as they're phased correctly, you can bolt it on at any point in the rotation you want). You cannot change the driveshaft phasing without disassembling the center slip joint.

If you have a custom shaft with a slip joint at one or other end, same idea applies...have to disengage the splines of the slip joint to rotate one u-joint without the other and change the phasing.

In other words: Don't disassemble your driveshaft and there's no need to mark it for removal/re-assembly.

Edit: Not that it's going to hurt anything. I'm just clarifying because this often gets done on the trail and people may not have a marking method handy. Settle some minds maybe.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:04 PM   #9
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Good work. Much more clear here than mine.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:04 AM   #10
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Very nice!
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:40 AM   #12
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Not yet
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:48 AM   #13
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great write up
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:52 AM   #14
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thanks
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyProof View Post
Time to get ready to remove the 3rd member from the housing.

Using a 12mm socket, remove the nuts and washers that secures the 3rd member to the housing:


Once you have all of the nuts and washers removed from the studs, it's time to get ready and separate the axles from the housing. You will need a 14mm wrench for this step. Be carefull when pulling out the axles so you don't tear or mare the axle seals.

Using a 14mm wrench, remove the 4 nuts on each side of the axle:


Once you have the nuts removed, pull out the axles away from the housing. You need to pull the axles out a good 3-4 inches away from the housing. You will have to use some force while doing this. You will also notice that the brake lines are pulling out some but that's ok. everything will go back together as normal. i promise lol.

Pull the axles away from the housing at least 3-4 inches and place something as a spacer to keep the axles away from the housing. I use large deep 1/2" sockets as my spacers:


nice write up. so on the axle where the drum and the axle connect is that like a spacer to make the axle longer???
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manwithoutaplan View Post
nice write up. so on the axle where the drum and the axle connect is that like a spacer to make the axle longer???
No that is a spacer to house the abs sensor - on in the case of ATRAC vehicles the ATRAC/ABS sensor! lol
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:58 PM   #17
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Tom - love the MonkeyProof and the MoneyProof logos!!! lol lol
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:05 PM   #18
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thanks Paul..took forever to add my mark to each photo, I don't know how Marlon does it lol.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:06 PM   #19
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http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...ml#post4220408
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...ml#post4220454


Here are two more good write ups. Yours is better but it's always nice to have more pictures.

Edit: copied over to TW for you
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