How the heck do i get this bed bolt out....or in...or anything!

If I was just missing one bolt I wouldn't stress over it for the short time it would take to replace it.

 

The bolts are very long there is a lot of thread exposed run it back in then use a thread chaser up the bolt to clear the threads then take it out.

 

I can't run it back in. It wont come out or go back in.

 

LOL. Luckily, the bolt im having trouble with is still connecting the bed to the frame.

 

Dry ice might be a last option too. Packed around the visible shank of the bolt. Just a thought. If nothing else works.

 

If the torx portion is not stripped use a long breaker bar if it is stripped use a pipe wrench.

You will far exceed the ft lbs of your impact with sheer force.

As I stated I had the same problem.

I did drive around for about three days until the new bolt came in at the dealer. No problems with it missing or not tightened.

They will likely have to order that bolt for you as well.

The new bolt went in with no problems.

 

JFlan - I've never taken these bolts out... Are these 'self locking' nuts? If so, then I would agree to anti seize, and no Loc-Tite req'd... otherwise you run the risk of vibrating loose.
Also, There is nothing better than new parts when appropriate. Chasing the damaged nut with a tap will make it usable sure but it also removes even more of the threads and degrades the integrity of the nut.
Personal opinion of course but I always replace rather than repair.

 

I would try the breaker bar to put it back, then soak it some more. I would work it in and out using the breaker bar trying to get it out a little further each time, soaking each time. I have a bad feeling you are going to break the bolt if you try to force it.

 

Good to know. The torx part isn't stripped. Have been very careful to not do that.

The nut I believe is welded to the frame, or part of a plate that is welded to the frame. Don't quote me on that, but I believe that is the case.

 

damn. Well the torx part is stripped now. Went back out there to try the breaker bar. It turned it about 5-6 total turns, but then the torx part of the head stripped. Can't turn it anymore with that bit. Gonna go at it with my grinder and a pipe wrench tomorrow with my buddy I think. and maybe some heat.

 

I found some pics on another thread you posted yesterday... they do appear to be captive or attached to the frame.

 

Try to thread the bolt back into the nut. Then crawl under the truck and take a wire brush to the exposed threads. Another option is cutting off the exposed threads. What is most likely causing this is corrosion on the bolt. The more you turn it, the more of this mess you are pushing into the nut, and the less likely you'll be to reuse the nut.

 

Surprised no one has brought this up but be careful using a pipe wrench or breaker bar. You get much more leverage which if the breaker bar was working is a good sign, but if it binds up again be careful... if it breaks inside the threads you will play hell trying to get it out. Most likely it will be have to drilled out at that point.

Other than that, try working it back and forth with whatever method you choose. you should be able to get it to back out more and more each time.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Don't let this cascade into a cluster f*ck and melt your bed.

 

I believe that they are.

 

This would be my Plan A for the morning.......

This is a very good idea. If you can thread the bolt in far enough to see clean threads (under the bed), cut the pig off in the area where the clean threads are.
A peanut grinder or a Sawzall would be my weapons of choice.

At this point you're just a few turns from victory.

With the peanut grinder (4" angle grinder) use a "cut-off" disk. They are those thin ones that are designed for cutting off bolts and misc. steel.
Make sure that the peanut grinder doesn't walk out and slice up your pretty face.

 

If all else fails get yourself a cheapo 1/2 HF socket. Get someone to weld it to the bolt head. Wail on it with breaker bar and a cheater pipe. Work it like a tap (1/2 turn forward - 1/4 turn back or so) though and spray PB every few turns.

I'd try the pipe wrench first though. Then grinding the sides.

 

put a pipe wrench to it, it'll either snap off or come out. if it snaps, drill out the rest of it and use a new nut/bolt.

 

Sawzall

 

I've got a two foot monkey wrench with nasty teeth that would love to bite into that exposed bolt. The long handles give you wicked leverage too. I've used it to overpower lots of stuff in the shop, includin seized-on gun barrels. I'd recommend one to anyone.