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07 Access Cab - Broken Door Hinge : HELP!!

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Old 01-06-2012, 07:12 PM   #1
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07 Access Cab - Broken Door Hinge : HELP!!

Hey guys, I've looked through the posts and I can't seem to find anything where this might've happened to someone else. If I'm making a duplicate post, please direct me to the correct post....so here goes. Just got this Taco in March last year, haven't had any issues. Went out to the lot after work to get in and when I opened the door I heard this pop and couldn't close the door. Another car was coming and I had to close the door so it could go by (shouldn't have had to because he was going the wrong way down the alley) and again another pop. I'm guessing the pops were each nut and bolt breaking off the metal... This is on the drivers side door where the hinge is supposed to slide into the door. I've never had this issue on any vehicle. I'm posting the driver side (1st pic, broken) and passenger side (2nd, and how it's supposed to look) . The good news is everything is still working inside the door, but the power window will only roll all the way down with the door open because this piece is keeping it from rolling down with the door closed. I know I have to remove the panel to get at it (easy), but does anyone know of any fixes?

I'm thinking of taking a small piece of metal and welding in over the opening. Then cutting a new square for the hinge to slide through and new holes for the part to bolt into. Otherwise the only other option I see is purchasing a new door (not what I want to do)??

Suggestions?
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:16 PM   #2
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That does not seem normal, at all. Any accident history? I personally would take it to a dealer and see what they could do for me, even though it's way out of warranty. That's a safety issue.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:38 PM   #3
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The part itself is called a check arm and it runs about $70 or more from the dealer. Yes. The guy who owned it before had an accident. Only the front drivers side fender flare, headlight, foglamp and bumper was replaced. This was disclosed before I purchased it. I had it inspected by two dealers, my mechanic and my body shop to make sure it wasn't a lemon. It passed. It's been on a frame machine and the frame is true and straight. The first dealer was rude and advised not to purchase it. He asked me what I was paying for it and once he found out, he proceeded to tell me what a POS it was and how it had major damage. I took it to a different dealer and that dealer went over it and said there were a few things that could be corrected but overall it was in pretty good shape, however the resale or trade in value would be lower. My mechanic and body shop guys said the same thing the second dealer did (without any of them knowing that I went to another place to begin with ~ just a precaution to see how honest they are in first place). I've been over it with a fine tooth comb and this is the only thing that's happened.

I'm a little hesitant about taking it back to a dealer because A) I'm a girl and B) the last time I went to a dealer they tried to do that "oh let's take advantage of a woman" thing to me. I'm thinking I might send my boyfriend instead.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaTaco View Post
I'm thinking of taking a small piece of metal and welding in over the opening. Then cutting a new square for the hinge to slide through and new holes for the part to bolt into. Otherwise the only other option I see is purchasing a new door (not what I want to do)??

Suggestions?
If you go the welding route, make sure you or whoever else is doing the work really knows what they are doing. That's gonna be a tough job with the thin metal.

If it were me I'd get some thicker metal and use stainless rivets to attach it inside the door. Then do as you had said and reattach the arm.

Maybe check with a body shop first. They are probably going to want to change the door, but it won't hurt to ask.

Makes me want to go check my doors for cracks. Wondering if this will become common as these trucks age.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:57 PM   #5
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That door check is most often damaged when the door is blown open by wind or allowed to fly open for some other reason. The problem is that once that arms gets bent it just happens to hit the track that the window runs in! The pop that you heard was the arm impacting the window track. Once the arm is bent it cannot be straightened. It is metal overmolded with plastic. It is easy to replace though. You'll have to take the door panel off and the check is held by 2 10mm bolts. Pull it out and bolt the new one in. You will have to also check the front window track for damage. If the window still goes up and down smoothly, then just leave it alone. If not, it can be removed and straightened in most cases. Be very careful closing the door till you fix it, or you might do further damage to the track.

The dealer will probably charge you a pretty penny to do this, but all you need is a socket set and few screw drivers. It takes about 20 minutes. The door panel has a few screws and then snap clips.

Edit: sorry I didn't realize the mounting surface was broken. I think, as suggested, riveting in a new plate is about the only answer. The arm may or may not be bent, but no way to tell till the mounting issue is fixed. These doors really need a limiting strap.
Badger
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaTaco View Post
The part itself is called a check arm and it runs about $70 or more from the dealer. Yes. The guy who owned it before had an accident. Only the front drivers side fender flare, headlight, foglamp and bumper was replaced. This was disclosed before I purchased it. I had it inspected by two dealers, my mechanic and my body shop to make sure it wasn't a lemon. It passed. It's been on a frame machine and the frame is true and straight. The first dealer was rude and advised not to purchase it. He asked me what I was paying for it and once he found out, he proceeded to tell me what a POS it was and how it had major damage. I took it to a different dealer and that dealer went over it and said there were a few things that could be corrected but overall it was in pretty good shape, however the resale or trade in value would be lower. My mechanic and body shop guys said the same thing the second dealer did (without any of them knowing that I went to another place to begin with ~ just a precaution to see how honest they are in first place). I've been over it with a fine tooth comb and this is the only thing that's happened.

I'm a little hesitant about taking it back to a dealer because A) I'm a girl and B) the last time I went to a dealer they tried to do that "oh let's take advantage of a woman" thing to me. I'm thinking I might send my boyfriend instead.
Sounds like you have a sharp wit and have made good decisions. If someone tries to pull some bullshit on you, or if something smells fishy, just walk away. In situations like this when people try to take advantage of you, you have to kind of be an asshole about it. Best bet is to find a small, reasonable, honest shop and give them your business. Make friends with the owner/technicians and you will be rewarded with good service for years to come. That's what I did when I had a SAAB - looked online for a shop with good reviews, went there, made friends, used him for all my work/oil changes, and when the economy went to shit and his business exploded in growth because all the dealers were failing, he rewarded his long-time customers with at-cost oil changes, free service, etc.

As for the hinge issue... I have no idea. haha. Good luck!!!
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badger View Post
That door check is most often damaged when the door is blown open by wind or allowed to fly open for some other reason. The problem is that once that arms gets bent it just happens to hit the track that the window runs in! The pop that you heard was the arm impacting the window track. Once the arm is bent it cannot be straightened. It is metal overmolded with plastic. It is easy to replace though. You'll have to take the door panel off and the check is held by 2 10mm bolts. Pull it out and bolt the new one in. You will have to also check the front window track for damage. If the window still goes up and down smoothly, then just leave it alone. If not, it can be removed and straightened in most cases. Be very careful closing the door till you fix it, or you might do further damage to the track.

The dealer will probably charge you a pretty penny to do this, but all you need is a socket set and few screw drivers. It takes about 20 minutes. The door panel has a few screws and then snap clips.

Badger
Did you not notice that the metal on the door where the door check bolts to is sheared off. It's not as easy of a fix as you say.

OP my only suggestion is to remove the door check for now. If it was me I'd be replacing the whole door since the part where it bolts to is gone. If you do find a way to fix it post up some pics. Would def like to see how it turns out.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:10 PM   #8
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Joe ~ and that was another concern. That metal is probably about 1/32" to 1/16" of an inch thick. Very thin so the welds would have to get tacks here and there. I'm good, but not sure I'm that good. I like the rivets idea. Thanks I'll check into....

Badger ~ wasn't blown open and it didn't swing open either (just an FYI). I'm pretty good about holding the door because my Max driver door is super bad about flying open so it's become force of habit. Thankfully, I only had to close it twice..the one time when I was leaving and then when I got home after I took the pictures. It didn't pop that time, it swings open but doesn't open all the way because the piece isn't in place and doesn't want to close once it gets to the door jamb because it's either pushing up against something (probably the track as you said). It looks like a pretty simple fix except that the metal is broken where it mounts. So I'm hoping it comes apart similar to the Max and I can either do the welding or the rivets.

Boyfriend has already agreed to take it to the dealer. I'm taking it to my body guy beforehand to see what he says.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:14 PM   #9
if you have to ask, u can't afford it
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wow good luck getting the dealer to warranty anything on the truck. imo they will tell u that u need a new door and door check.
...body shop, insurance... ?
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:19 PM   #10
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Nels ~ you bet.... I'm all about show and tell! I hate it when I'm looking for something and there are no pics posted!! That's how I learn to fix things, easily! If I get it fixed tomorrow I'll post pics...

Zul ~ thanks...I try! I love to showcase my skills.....because I'm a girl!
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:27 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by YotaTaco View Post
I love to showcase my skills.....because I'm a girl!
My sister has zero interest in fixing her own car. However, she took one year of auto shop in high school.

She calls me up and tells me her Jeep is leaking oil, lots of it. She walked to the corner store, bought a quart of oil, topped the oil off and drove it half a mile to a shop. Told them to diagnose and call her back. The service writer calls her and says her upper radiator hose is leaking. She says "wow, glad you found that, but what about the oil leak." He says "no, it's only leaking coolant." She says "call back when you find the oil leak and give me a price to fix both problems please." I don't think they were trying to screw her, but at the very least she saved herself a ton of hassle. I was so PROUD of her.

Everyone should at least know how to tell what's leaking on the driveway.

Props to you for showing the guys what's up!
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:42 PM   #12
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My 09 looks a little different than yours.
The "module" in the door is not flush with the oval cut out like yours. It is set back into the door about 1/4" +
I wonder if there was a revision ?

Be cool if there was a TSB.

Good job on the pics, that's tight in there.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:54 PM   #13
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Jflan ~ I'm not sure what yours looks like but there's an 09 on the dealer lot next to my house so I might go over and check that out. If you look at the passenger side picture, it's not flush either. It's like a cut out with another piece of metal about 1/4" back and inside and the parts are on that piece of metal. It concerns me about the welding because it's so tight inside and I'd definitely have to remove the door and all the components to do it the right way.

Joe ~ good for your sis. Kudos for standing up for herself. I love to work on my vehicles. My boyfriend is fully supportive of it. He does the same. I'm going to teach him how to do change the struts on my car. We've been learning a lot from one another so it works out. So much fun! I just wish I had a garage and I'd be out there working my Yota now!
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:00 PM   #14
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Ok, I'm going a little off topic, but I want to thank you guys for the quick responses! I wasn't sure what to expect. I'll say that I've also got a profile on the Maxima forum and I can't start a new thread until I've had at least 15 posts...which I feel is a little dumb especially if you know what you're looking for hasn't been posted on the site. So thanks to all in this thread and those who run the site for making this really easy!
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaTaco View Post
If you look at the passenger side picture, it's not flush either. It's like a cut out with another piece of metal about 1/4" back and inside and the parts are on that piece of metal.
Oh, yours looked flush.
I like the patch plate with rivets idea. I would go 3/16" dia rivets because it will take a little bump each time you open. There are some nice wide flange rivets that have an oversize head.
Might be a good idea to take off the interior panel and make sure that it's OK to drill where you want to drill.

Would probably be easier to bolt up to your patch plate before riveting the patch plate.

I still wonder why they did that oval cut out ?
Maybe ease of manufacturing ?
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:38 AM   #16
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looks like metal fatigue from constantly opening the door hard and letting the door arm stop it. pisses me off, had a friend who kept doing it to my old truck. fixed his ass by letting his door go on his van when i rode with him. he noticed that real quick.
anyway's, the arm looks like it's welded onto the body mounting plate and it's definatly bent. i'd get a new arm, take out the old one, straighten out the old plate if it's bent, trace the old plate onto a piece of 16gauge sheet metal only make it as big as it will fit into the body, pop rivet it in place, make sure the door works correctly, realine if need be, then tack weld it. self etching rattle can primer and some paint.
making bracket's/plates is a pita, but worth it after it's done.
my 2 cent's worth anyway's.
but what the hell do i know, i'm just an amateur on the pro circuit trying to make a name for myself!
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jflan View Post
Oh, yours looked flush.
I like the patch plate with rivets idea. I would go 3/16" dia rivets because it will take a little bump each time you open. There are some nice wide flange rivets that have an oversize head.
Might be a good idea to take off the interior panel and make sure that it's OK to drill where you want to drill.

Would probably be easier to bolt up to your patch plate before riveting the patch plate.

I still wonder why they did that oval cut out ?
Maybe ease of manufacturing ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfxdig View Post
looks like metal fatigue from constantly opening the door hard and letting the door arm stop it. pisses me off, had a friend who kept doing it to my old truck. fixed his ass by letting his door go on his van when i rode with him. he noticed that real quick.
anyway's, the arm looks like it's welded onto the body mounting plate and it's definatly bent. i'd get a new arm, take out the old one, straighten out the old plate if it's bent, trace the old plate onto a piece of 16gauge sheet metal only make it as big as it will fit into the body, pop rivet it in place, make sure the door works correctly, realine if need be, then tack weld it. self etching rattle can primer and some paint.
making bracket's/plates is a pita, but worth it after it's done.
my 2 cent's worth anyway's.
but what the hell do i know, i'm just an amateur on the pro circuit trying to make a name for myself!
These are great suggestions. I never would have thought of pop riveting in a new piece of metal.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:27 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jflan View Post
My 09 looks a little different than yours.
The "module" in the door is not flush with the oval cut out like yours. It is set back into the door about 1/4" +
I wonder if there was a revision ?

Be cool if there was a TSB.

Good job on the pics, that's tight in there.

I have a 10 and it's deep set and not flush either. I went to take pics to show her so she doesn't have to go look at the one at the dealer but my pics came out looking like hers. It doesn't show the depth.

Edit: Here's the first pic



Here's another pic I took with a pen to show depth.





So there probably wasn't a revision in design.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:50 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by babytruck View Post
I have a 10 and it's deep set and not flush either. I went to take pics to show her so she doesn't have to go look at the one at the dealer but my pics came out looking like hers. It doesn't show the depth.

Edit: Here's the first pic



Here's another pic I took with a pen to show depth.





So there probably wasn't a revision in design.
yep, i went out and looked at mine. a new mounting pan will have to be fab'ed. some slick dremel work and it should'nt be too hard to repair. make it a mirror image of the passenger side.
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:57 PM   #20
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Ok, got the piece out. Wasn't pretty back there. I'll have to do some clever handy work & straighten the metal back out. We had to pull out the window track & straighten it because it was bent probably after the second time I shut the door. I got a metal piece at Lowes for $5. I should be able to fab a new piece to put in the door. I'll post pics once I get it started.
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