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Show me frame welds for your sliders!

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Old 03-01-2012, 08:59 AM   #21
Oysterhead [OP] Oysterhead is offline
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They're on! The rear leg was a beyotch. Didn't use a gusset, but with the angle I agree with Adam that it's unnecessary.

I used a 17 degree angle, which is about max to avoid interferencew with the rear door.

The distance between the pinch weld is about 1", except for the rear leg which is about 1/2" (since it angles up).

Watch the brake lines on the driver side!







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Old 03-01-2012, 09:11 AM   #22
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looks good... i still need to do mine
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:16 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oysterhead View Post
They're on! The rear leg was a beyotch. Didn't use a gusset, but with the angle I agree with Adam that it's unnecessary.

I used a 17 degree angle, which is about max to avoid interferencew with the rear door.

The distance between the pinch weld is about 1", except for the rear leg which is about 1/2" (since it angles up).

Watch the brake lines on the driver side!


I would weld the top of the plate and plug weld those holes so you can keep the moisture from getting behind the plate. other then that
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:24 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by JLee View Post
I would plug weld those holes so you can keep the moisture from getting behind the plate
I'm planning to spray the holes with undercarriage rubberized paint.
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:33 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Oysterhead View Post
I'm planning to spray the holes with undercarriage rubberized paint.
As long as it seals it up so water can't get behind your frame plates you should be fine.
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:41 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Oysterhead View Post
I'm planning to spray the holes with undercarriage rubberized paint.
Still a real good idea to weld that top seem as well. That is a great place for water to get in and your frame will rot out long before that mounting plate does. I nipped the top corners off of my mounting plates so the horizontal portion at the top is shorter and easier to weld. That top side can be tough to see or get a wire gun in there.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:08 AM   #28
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Haha rust
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:42 AM   #29
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Haha rust

I just looked at mine and found some surface rust on the back leg. Wipped it off and repainted
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:57 AM   #30
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I had all the open seams welded including the tops. (the trip to Essentially Off Road in Murfreesboro was worth the time/$$ alone, serious buggies).

All legs and plates were primed and painted with rubberized undercarriage paint. The holes were not welded. That stuff can clog some serious holes. I was wondering about a "bondo" or similar product that I could use to fill-in the holes...

For now, the slider project is complete and I'm very happy with the outcome. I'm confident they can easily hold the weight of the Taco and the new look is pretty darn sweet too.



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Old 04-08-2013, 10:37 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch View Post


I know this is an old thread but I noticed you did not have frame plates. Have you ever come down on them hard for any bending to occur? The shop I took my sliders to have welded on did them they same way yours are even though I provided them with the frame plates and gussets. I told them they needed to fix it but they refused so I am in the process of disputing the charge
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