LSC15's 95 Tacoma 4x4

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FINALLY Fixed my vibes!!!!!!!!

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Old 03-10-2012, 11:25 AM   #21
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ic, that's too bad i was hoping you could just swap flange yokes =(
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:56 AM   #23
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lonecountryboy,

How much slack is in that slip yoke? My driveshaft measures up to be 50.75inches. I think stretching it ~3" would be pushing it. I'll probably have to get it lengthened as well..
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:04 PM   #24
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You rotate your pinion to nearly parallel with the DS?
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:07 PM   #25
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Just curious what the price difference would be to just go ahead and have them make your original into a one piece? Would this be a feasible solution?
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:11 PM   #26
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Don't think it'd be worth it, you're basically building a whole new shaft at that point. Gotta re-tube it and add the double cardan joint. At that point you're only using a single yoke and joint off your old shaft.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:28 PM   #27
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justinhw what do you mean by slack? up and down or in and out? there is no up down but there is about 3-4"? maybe for the slip yoke to move.
max don't understand the question I rotated the ds flange 90degrees to give me the most clearance between the holes so they weren't to close together, the inside of the flange on the driveshaft and the inside of the flange on the ds are made to slip inside of one another thats how they keep it centered don't know if that answered your question or not.
Kane I priced a Tom Woods and a custom ds locally and the TW was about 550 delivered and the local was 600 so a significant cost reduction if you shop around for a good used one.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:44 PM   #29
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You answered my question, thanks! I meant range for the slip yoke to move. Although it will probably fit for me without lengthening, it probably wouldn't have enough "slip" to allow for full flex of the axle.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:49 PM   #30
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I mean is your pinion pointed at the t-case and parallel with the drive shaft?

With the CV double cardan joint you get a non canceling effect of the other u-joint which speeds up and slows down twice per revolution. Therefore the pinion needs to be almost parallel, maybe a degree under to counter axle wrap, with the drive shaft. To keep that u-joint angle at a minimum when under load, thus lessening the vibration from the speed/slow process the u-joint undergoes.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:59 PM   #31
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Good job.
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Old 03-10-2012, 02:20 PM   #32
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Max ahh I see what you mean, the pinion is a little off from pointing exactly at the t-case but so far I have no vibes so I haven't bothered to measure it.
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:47 PM   #33
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Okay, just to clarify with my last post. You might know this but figure I'll explain for others. Since you have a double cardan, it acts like a CV or constant velocity joint. Therefore unlike a regular u-joint which speeds up and slows down (which translates into a vibration if you don't cancel it out with the other u-joint), the CV just spins at a constant velocity. Since normally you have a u-joint on either end they cancel each others speeds, thus you get no vibration. With a double cardan joint it won't cancel the u-joint on the other end, so it needs to be at next to 0* operation angle, thus it won't speed up and slow down during a revolution. If you set it down 1 or 2* then when you accelerate the tendency for the pinion to rotate up is accounted for (leaf spring axle wrap), and you should have minimal to no vibration.

If yours works, then great, just wanted to explain. Nice work, this is probably one of the best ways to eliminate vibration in our shafts IMO.
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:49 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonecountryboy View Post
Kane I priced a Tom Woods and a custom ds locally and the TW was about 550 delivered and the local was 600 so a significant cost reduction if you shop around for a good used one.

I have access to a lathe would it be worth my time to buy a driveshaft from junkyard use the yolks and cv and make a one piece then take it and have it balanced?
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:56 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonecountryboy View Post
So a little background bought a 2012 DCSB right off the lot I had the 20mph vibe drove it a couple hundred miles to see if it got worse or better no change after 500 miles so I took it in to have them look at it. Wouldn't you know it they said it was normal, whatever, I figured it would probably get worse once I put the lift on which it did.(2.5" in the front with an aal in the rear) not only was it worse it now had the damn take off vibe. So jump on TW and start doing research find out Tom Woods makes a one piece that seems to work well so before I sink $500 into a new driveline I wanted to make sure it was the rear driveline. Oh I took a weekend and screwed around with shimming the axle and the CB which helped but did not eliminate the vibes. So back to my story, I took out the rear driveline put it in 4HI and took it for a drive well well no vibes so I am just about ready to pull the trigger on a new Tom Woods driveline when I notice the spare drivline I have for my 99 4Runner, it has the CV style u-joint at the transfer case side and the slip joint on the rear diff side so I take it and hold it up to the transfer case and lo and behold it fits on perfect take it back to the rear and the bolt pattern is smaller but with the flange the way it is I figure it wouldn't take nothing at all to drill it to fit it just needs to be lengthed. So I call the local driveline shop and they quote me $160 to lengthen the driveline sounds reasonable so I take it down and a few days later they call me and say its ready. Sweet so I motor on down and pick it up take the old one out and bolt on the transfer case side and hold it up to the rear diff and mark the holes, takes about 20 min to drill new ones and then bolt the rear on with some new fine thread grade 8 bolts and take it for a test drive. Guess what NO MORE DAMN VIBES!!!!!!!!! I am freakin ecstatic this was my only bitch on the whole truck besides that it has been great. I have had it in for about 2wks and it is still vibe free.
So anybody who wants to do it the cheaper way this is what you need. The rear driveline is out of a 99 4Runner but I think that gen is from 1997-2002 don't quote me on that though, I did a little research and found the drivelines at some junkyards from $40-150 I remember paying $40 for this one from a pick-a-part so basically for $200 I fixed my vibes. Don't know if it will work for everybody but it worked for me I had that same driveline shop quote me a new one custom built and it was about $550 so this way you already have the CV u-joint and the slip joint they just have to lengthen it. If anybody else does this let us know how it turns out. Oh and for those who think I didn't try hard enough with the shims and CB maybe I didn't but I thought it was a pretty weak design from toyota to begin with but to each his own I guess.
Just out of curiosity, do you know what your shaft to TC output angle is now?? The reason I ask is mine with the 2 piece stock shaft is about 5*. I have read that optimal is to keep it under 3* and am worried at the potential new vibrations with a 1 piece at this angle. I'm just about to pull the trigger on a 1 piece and if I do it I know my angle will stay at about 5*. I was going to get a local shop build me a shaft with single u joints at either end, the double cardan(cv) is about $400 so wasn't an option. After reading your post I'm now considering your route but I don't know how critical it is to have the double cardan to have a good result. The single cardan is apparently more forgiving at higher angles...
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:58 PM   #36
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OP - Can you explain in further detail the noise you were hearing? I think this may be my problem too. I've been scratching my head over it since I drove my truck off the lot in December. Here is a link to my thread trying to have all you good folks help me figure it out it includes a video capturing the noise.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...ar-theirs.html

Let me know if you can if you think this is similar to what you experienced. My truck is not lifted though it seems you had this noise right off the lot too. If this is the fix I too will be able to fix the only thing that is driving me crazy about this truck. Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:57 PM   #37
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this fix is genius....except that i refuse to have to do this to a brand new truck with only 1000 miles on it! WTF....TOYOTA should take responsibility for a fix, why am i walking through a junkyard to fix my brand new truck?
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsus View Post
this fix is genius....except that i refuse to have to do this to a brand new truck with only 1000 miles on it! WTF....TOYOTA should take responsibility for a fix, why am i walking through a junkyard to fix my brand new truck?




but this is what toyota thinks

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Old 03-10-2012, 09:18 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsilver View Post
Just out of curiosity, do you know what your shaft to TC output angle is now?? The reason I ask is mine with the 2 piece stock shaft is about 5*. I have read that optimal is to keep it under 3* and am worried at the potential new vibrations with a 1 piece at this angle. I'm just about to pull the trigger on a 1 piece and if I do it I know my angle will stay at about 5*. I was going to get a local shop build me a shaft with single u joints at either end, the double cardan(cv) is about $400 so wasn't an option. After reading your post I'm now considering your route but I don't know how critical it is to have the double cardan to have a good result. The single cardan is apparently more forgiving at higher angles...
The double cardan is better for high angles. You basically split the angle between the two u-joints in the DC(CV) joint. Then rotate the pinion up and you no longer need to worry about operating angles. You should see longer life out of the u-joints now as well, and you still have 3 of them, like stock so you're not having to replace more.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:19 PM   #40
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Talking

I saw this on ebay for $300 plus $25 shipping brand new http://www.ebay.com/itm/250890204212


or used that's need work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-Toyota-...sories&vxp=mtr


If the first one work, somebody may call the company for group buy. Just trying to help even I dont have the Tacoma untill the end of this month.
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