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FINALLY Fixed my vibes!!!!!!!!

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Old 03-25-2013, 09:02 PM   #61
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I strongly believe the vibration in the tacoma is due to the t case and the pinion are not on the same x axis. This is why when you install a one piece DS the a lateral angle at the t case is the same at the pinion but opposite hence canceling each other and also explains lateral angle at the u joint after the CB. But no angle at the pinion hence the vibs. Just my thoughts.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:08 PM   #62
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I think I'd try to shove the shaft up someones ass at Toyota!!!
Jet
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:17 PM   #63
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I opened a case with Toyota and got extended warranty 8 year 125k miles for free but that did not fix the vibes.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:47 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
That's what u ended up doing but the flange sizes are different on the rear diff so I bought a double drilled flange and some 10mm driveshaft bolts

What are your thoughts on if i get the front and rear drive shaft off of 99-2000 4 runner , lengthen the rear to fit the tacoma and at the rear u joint i swap it for the one off of the front shaft that mates to the t case , this way i do not have to drill the diff flange.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:34 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonecountryboy View Post
Yup has to be out of a 4WD and the u-joint on the rear is different inbetween the 4Runner and the Taco looked up the specs so you would still have to drill the rear flange or the driveline shop said they could get a new flange that would be drilled for several different bolt patterns for another $65 but I decided to drill it and save me the money.
justinhw I recall the stock 4Runner length being around 48" but don't quote me on it also if you have a longbed taco this would not work, the shop said this was about the max length you could balance it and make it work. If you do have a longbed I think you could put the CV joint where the middle u-joint goes and maybe solve the vibes would need to have someone with a longbed try it and see how it goes.
Is there any way around drilling the flange. I follow every step you mentioned except for the flange part. I understand the the drive shaft rear u joint is differet, if i get the front shaft off of the same 4 runner can i use the rear u joint the bolts up to the t case, this way i dot not have to drill the flange?
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:15 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fedz View Post
I have a 2013 Tacoma DCSB and it is also vibration between 15-25mph, i also have a 2012 4runner , after many attempts to fix the vibration, i thought to look under the 4runner, the T case looks identical to the one in the Tacoma but it has a one piece drive shaft with no cv, also both ends of the 4runner drive shaft (flange)looks identical to the tacoma, i might look for a used late model 4runner driveshaft and see if i can just lengthen it to fit my tacoma.
Very interesting! I just have a slight take off shutter after lifting it about 2". I've measured the angles of the joints till I'm blue in the face and tried adjusting the CB with many different shims and flipping it. Many other threads on this. Hmmm. I've gotten used to it but it still sucks.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:00 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HB Taco View Post
Very interesting! I just have a slight take off shutter after lifting it about 2". I've measured the angles of the joints till I'm blue in the face and tried adjusting the CB with many different shims and flipping it. Many other threads on this. Hmmm. I've gotten used to it but it still sucks.
I am also tired of messing with it, i contacted Tom Wood for a one piece drive shaft, it is $389 i am sure it will be money well spent.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:11 PM   #68
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I put on a one piece shaft a few months back and have had no issues or vibes since. With the two piece after lifting I tried everything without any cures.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:46 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
I have not heard good things about those driveshafts. You would be better off to stick with OEM toyota with spicer joints
I would like to stay with OEM , but i find myself driving the truck very gentle to avoid feeling the vibs, which pisses me off. I asked Tom wood to build me a heavy duty drive shaft with Spicer joints, still waiting for a response. What do you have against the one piece?
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:41 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
Nothing against the one piece but more against Tom woods. I would find a double cardan shaft from a 4runner or get Jessie at high angle driveline to build you a driveshaft
I heard some bad reviews about Tom wood DS but did not think much of it, i am in WA , probably will hit my local drive shaft shop.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fedz View Post
I heard some bad reviews about Tom wood DS but did not think much of it, i am in WA , probably will hit my local drive shaft shop.
What do you recomend a one piece 2 joints or a one piece cv ?
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:18 AM   #72
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Just remember to make your pinion end u-joint run at near 0*
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:12 AM   #73
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You can go with double cardan, they tend to be a littlle more forgiving with minor vibes, but the wheel base of these trucks is long enough that single u joints at each end will work as well. I opted for single joints and have no issues.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:59 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatBasinTaco View Post
You can go with double cardan, they tend to be a littlle more forgiving with minor vibes, but the wheel base of these trucks is long enough that single u joints at each end will work as well. I opted for single joints and have no issues.
What kind of DS did you go with? Is it custom? can you provide more details and maybe pictures?
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:12 AM   #75
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I went with a custom ($380 from local shop). I will take pictures today. But basically it's just over 67" long at ride height with spicer 1330 sealed u joints. The slip spline allows for about 2" of extention and compression, which with my dakars is more than enough.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:18 AM   #76
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Also, this is about as long as you can go with a single driveshaft. This is not a safe option for DCLB.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:49 AM   #77
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So what do i ask for at the drive line shop, i know double cardan , and give them the measurements, what else 1330 or 1350 joints?
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:06 AM   #78
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the shop will use the best u joints for the application. They may also give advice of double or single cardan. you could ask them also.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:55 PM   #79
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What do you guys think about a vibration damper between the carrier bearing and the cross member? That should sure reduce the feeling of the vibration
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:08 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
No dice. That should be a flush mount to the cross member. Any torsional load will transfer to the carrier beating and you would likely wear it out much faster
i was thinking one of these, but i will take your advice and not do it





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