Added power locks and windows - 2012

Added power windows and locks to my regular cab manual 4x4. This is what I got:
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=SPAL-0128
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01C

I've installed the exact same two products on my old Titan. The Titan was super easy to work on and there was an install guide available on a1's site. I didn't think it was going to be too hard, but it was a bit trickier in the Tacoma. Space is a little limited (when compared to my Titan). Anyway, here's what I ended up with:




notes:
There's not a lot of room for the window switches. I got the switches that were raised (not flush mounted) because I planned to mount them next to the door handle. But after debating it for awhile, it was just too hard to access the switches as my arm had to contort to reach them. Still though, it was a good thing I got the surface mounts as there isn't a lot of room behind the door panel where I eventually mounted them. plus the cables are right behind where I had initially planned to mount them - may have been an interference.

The window motor has to be mounted fairly high in the door, with the motor facing inside, facing out will hit the window, mounting it lower will hit the door panel. I still had to shave a bunch of foam off the door panel.
I had to cut about an 1/8th of an inch off of the long gear (that slips over the old handle knob to be flush)

For the locks, I think the rod should be bent fairly close to how I did it. Originally I had it coming towards the cabin from the actuator then snaking up and towards the cable, but it was hitting the door panel. So I had to rebend it to go as far up first, then start going towards the cabin.

For wiring, I had to tap into a total of 3 wires. For my truck, I used white/blue for the locks(constant), white/green for the windows (Acc), and green for the illuminated switches. I tested all of these wires with a test light.

In hind sight, I wish I didn't do both of these on the same day. Took way longer than I had hoped. Probably about 6-7 hours. Everything works great though. Central locking, so if you open one, the other lock opens. I plan to add an alarm soon. Window motors are strong and fairly silent. Hope this helps anyone looking to do the same.

also installed a sickspeed shift knob:

Oh, and as you can see, I used a 2005-2011 dash kit for my stereo. I knew it was going to be off, you can see how the lines to match up. I planned to replace it when the 2012 kit comes out, but I may not even bother.

 

solid!!!

 

Big improvement....Must be Peter from 808. Nice pics.

 

nice! i want to do this too! any chance you have a bit of a write up on how you did these mods?

 

i also ment to mention,.... do you think that those switches would fit to left of the steering wheel if i modded the blank covers?

 

Great pics! Nice shift knob btw! Have the exact same on mine as well!

 

No write up. Also, the window motors are currently installed a bit differently. I put the metal covers back on the inner door panel and mounted the motors to that. Unfortunately no pics of that either. I completely removed all the foam from the door card. Also installed sound deadening - that's what prompted the reinstall of the metal plate, to close off that huge opening. But everything is working great.

The exact switches I got are too wide to fit in there, but there might be switches that fit. A1 lists the dimensions for each switch. I cutout cardboard templates from the dimensions I got from the website and made sure they would fit.

 

Personally, if I was going to do this, I would first check and see if the factory power window motors from an Access or Double cab will fit into the regular cab doors. I just like the idea of things being factory in that area.

Using factory wiring harnesses and switches would be too complicated, but I would at least try for direct bolt in motors. I see no reason why an aftermarket switch kit won't work with factory motors.

 

Have you ever seen a regular cab door? No location for factory switch. Our door cards are different part numbers than access cabs. I would have to source a new door cards, and it would still have to be modded to accept the manual spline... unless I also sourced factory motors.

 

I drive an 09 regular cab every day at work, so I am familiar with them. The factory switches definitely are not going to work. What I was suggesting was that you investigate using factory motors. That's what seems kind of mickey mouse about the universal kits to me. I would use aftermarket wiring and switches and not be worried about it, but given the choice I would prefer full replacement motor/regulator assemblies designed for that particular truck. A 12V motor is a 12V motor. It does not matter what switch system is feeding it, as long as it's able to handle the amp draw.

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

 

Very nice, this is definitely in my to do list. I was thinking of removing the tweeter and mounting the buttons flush on the tweeter grill (after using fiberglass or something to make it a smooth flat surface), and if possible mount a tweeter where the window handle was.

 

the new actuators are coming with a single useless 3inch bracket now for some stupid reason

 

how is the power lock kit holding up? i really want to do that for my reg cab, sick of reaching over to unlock passenger door.

 

no problems!
may have mentioned it before but i've used the same kit in my old truck and it worked great in that application as well. the install is important though (proper bracing, rod alignment, etc.)

 

So does it unlock with a fob or when u unlock ur door the passenger door unlocks at the same time?

 

It locks/unlocks with my fob(viper alarm). Alarm installer said it was possible to have dual stage but it would have cost much more.. so I just went with single - one press locks both doors, one press unlocks both. If I use the key on either door, both will respond - unlocking driver door will also open pass.

I installed the locks before I had the alarm installed.

 

Sounds similar to mine (haven't installed it yet).
It's a "central" lock/unlock kit.
When either lock is operated, the other one follows.
Can be programmed to lock when the truck is started.

Nice thing about the Taco, pull the door handle and it unlocks itself, which will unlock both doors with this system.

I bought the illuminated dash switch thinking I'd need it, but since it responds to the manual door lock/unlock lever, there's really no need for a switch on the dash or door.

 

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a keyless unlock/lock kit? with a remote, not an alarm but do I have to get an alarm first to have keyless entry via a remote?

I miss keyless entry just because I hate the stupid small scratches that will eventually get on my door and handle even though I'll do my best to take care of it,

 

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01F-712T

It's the same power kit as the OP, but with the [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]AVI-2101 keyless system added.
I bought the kit but have not had a chance to install it yet.

Keep in mind that this is a "central" lock/unlock kit, and responds to the position of the solenoid:

Unlock the door with the remote or key, both doors unlock
Start the car (if you connected the IGN wire on the wireless module) and both doors lock
Unlock the door with the manual flipper or by pulling the door handle, both doors unlock.

Same for locking... locking with the key, remote, or the little red tab on either door will lock both doors.
There is no need for the optional door/dash switch.
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That's exactly what I am going to get,

Thanks for the heads up,

Let us know when you do the install, we all wanna see if you come up with anything better, faster, or the like.