Weight reduction mods?

Loose the stock intake. Its massive for what it is. Get a urd true cai. Lose about 8 pounds or more.

 

Unless you're planning to race it why?

And if you're planning to race it then sell it and get sommething to actually race with. Weight reduction is way more than replacing :stock: parts with aftermarket stuff.

But press on since the only weight reduction will be in your wallet.

 

This always gets me, thread title isn't "what's your opinion on if I should or should not do this" it's a compilation of weight reduction ideas, and if you had read the whole thing you'd find out this guy builds "something to actually race with" already haha seems to know his stuff

 

X2 im concerned about weight. Alittle weight in these truck really makes a difference with mpgs per the ultraguage.

 

This thread reminds me of a hiking magazine that once suggested cutting the labels out of underwear as an important step in gear weight reduction.

 

Don't worry bro, I got fast covered. I ain't trying to go fast, but if I'm gonna spend money on mods, I'd rather do my diligence and put the money towards a plan....which I am. It might not be fore everybody. I'm fine with that.

Buzzards & TRD - Thanks homeys. Not everyone is gonna be able to wrap their minds around the interest I have in this.

 

If you are serious about weight reduction, there may be a few things you can do (some of these have been noted previously).

• Check on low-weight batteries.
• Ditch the back seats.
• Replace the tailgate with web mesh.
• Consider aluminum bumpers.
• Carry only the minimum gear.
• Remember that gasoline weighs 6 pounds a gallon.
• If you always travel in groups, carry an air pump and lightweight patch kit and ditch the spare tire. If you have changed the wheels and tires your spare is probably undersized anyway and you always can borrow one to limp back to a main road if in a group.
• If you are in the boonies, ditch the doors and replace them with canvas doors.
• Pull the radio -- it's not absolutely necessary.

 

Oh yes, and I'm sure it's been suggested (and, possibly, rejected) but several people around here have aluminum flat beds on their trucks. These aren't "hobby" drivers either -- they are farmers, ranchers and petroleum industry workers who do it so they can haul and tow more weight.

 

AC delete, bald tires (okay highwayish instead of All terrain or Mud terrains), ditch power steering, carpet delete (is bedliner lighter?), lightest rims possible, skiny tires for less air/wind resistance, maybe fiberglass body panels, aluminum drive shaft (or Carbon Fiber which was mentioned earlier iirc), rear disc brake conversion (I think weighs less...)

THESE ARE NOT SURE I AM GUESSING ON SOME OR POTENTIALLY ALL OF THESE

 

funny car style body

 

body panel delete

 

I'm on XRU bro....dig that site. The members there know their stuff. It's refreshing to talk to other gearheads who actually have hands on experience building these trucks. That's an enthusiast site! PM'd you BTW

 

Best thing possible would be lighter brake rotors, lighter wheels, CF driveshaft if you can swing it (custom can be had for 12-1500), lightweight flywheel, lightweight XR composite leafs (get an extra set though ), and fiberglass the body panels (hood,fenders,and bedsides). 86 the tailgate, move the spare tire into the bed braced against the back of the cab, move battery and accessory coolant systems (tranny cooler, radiator if you can, etc) into the bed. Could also move the fuel tank into the bed as well to distribute weight more evenly. Overall between the radiator, fuel tank, battery, and other coolant systems moved to the truck Id bet you're talking moving a few hundred pounds further back. Weight distribution from factory is approx 62-38, so lets say all those parts weight 300 lbs, moving that all into the bed could change that distribution by as much as 5%, say 57-43? That would be a SIGNIFICANT change in weight distribution, not to mention better response from lighter unsprung components and driveline weight reduction from flywheel and driveshaft

 

Reducing weight is not going to negate the mods you added. Example: Heavier tires take more torque and power to turn. So no amount of weight reduction makes up for that. You are just wasting money you could have spent on gas.

 

Don't forget to account for the total vehicle weight though.

For example, my wheel tire combo is heavier than stock. Due to a larger wheel, primarily.
However the overall weight of the vehicle is between 3700-3800 lbs. without a driver. Which is still lighter than it was, in factory trim, with 16" steel wheels.

 

But unsprung weight @Torspd

 

This is why I said not to forget overall vehicle weight.

Trust me. I want lighter wheels, to lighten that load. My combo is about 65 lbs per corner. A lot less unsprung weight than when I had 35" BFG mud terrains, at around ~110 lbs per corner.

 

I have never towed and don't see any need in the future - it will further aggravate weight distribution issue but I will look into removing the hitch receiver. Already dropped my unneeded OEM step rails

 

Interesting point you bring up. The Shrockwerks rear bumper has an integrated hitch. It weighs less than the OEM rear bumber and aftermarket hitch combined. By 8 or so pounds.
Edited* don't know where I thought of 60 from. Lol.


Better protection and lighter weight. Win win.

http://www.shrockworks.com/Rear-Bum...4th-Generation-Tacoma-2005-2015-pr-16261.html

 

Get rid of all the airbags and seat belts