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Old 03-31-2012, 12:50 PM   #21
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alright i will record those sometime this weekend, Where can i get ground strap?
I went to ace and they had none
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CayucosTacoma View Post
alright i will record those sometime this weekend, Where can i get ground strap?
I went to ace and they had none
I got some from a CB shop out in Ventura. Check and see if there are any shops by you and they should have some!

Also try searching on here, saw a thread of someone making their own strapping for a CB out of coax cable I think. But search in here man, a lot of DIY quick fixes.. Good luck getting it all worked out! If you have more questions just ask, someone will be able to help!
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:50 PM   #23
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one tip i got years ago that helped a lot on the tuning of the antenna is to always run at least 12' of cable to the antenna....whether you need that much or not.

route the cable under your carpeting for the excess length in a way that its spread out, not all on top of itself.

works wonders
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:14 PM   #24
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i have the same ant. and a cheap cobra cb....i started at 5+ on 1,19,40 and after about 40min of adjusting the tip on the firestik i got 1.8 on ch.1 1.3 on ch19 and 1.3 on ch40.....take your time and itll tune in be patient make sure ur grounds are good and you in an open are when you tun...i did mine in a cemetary...lol
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:04 PM   #25
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I have a cemetery right down the road haha
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:22 PM   #26
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sorry for this question, but all the way down on the firestik doesnt mean lowest swr meter right?
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:03 AM   #27
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Here this might help...

THE SET UP



If already connected, disconnect the coaxial cable from the radio. Connect the coax cable that normally connects to the back of the radio to the SWR meter connector marked "Antenna" or "Ant". Now, connect one end of the jumper cable to the back of the radio and the other end to the SWR meter connection marked "Transmitter" or "Xmit". Your SWR meter is now in series (in-line) with your radio and antenna.
Since you've already read the previous parts of this pamphlet, you should now have your vehicle in an open area, with all doors closed. Turn your radio on and tune to channel one or the lowest channel on your radio. If your radio has side band operation, make sure you are in AM mode before doing SWR tests.
The following assumes that your SWR meter has a standard set of switches, knobs and meters. That is, there will be at least one switch with the marking Forward (FWD) in one position and Reference (REF or SWR) in the other. There will also be a knob or sliding controller marked "Set" or "Adjust". Most meters come with full instructions. If the common configuration does not match your meter you will need to rely on the meters manual for assistance.
With the radio on the lowest channel (1 on CB) and the SWR meters switch in the Forward (FWD) position, depress the transmit switch (key up) located on the microphone. While holding the unit in this transmit mode, adjust the meter needle to the set position using the Set or Adjust knob on the meter. As soon as the needle is in alignment with the corresponding mark on the meter face, flip the switch to the Reference (REF) position. The meter is now showing your SWR on channel one. Note the value and quickly release the microphone switch. Record this reading on your paper to the nearest 1/10th. i.e. 1.8, 2.3, 2.7, 1.4, etc.
Now, switch your radio to the middle channel (19 on CB). Place the meter switch in the Forward (FWD) position, depress the microphone switch and adjust the meter to place the needle on the Set position of the meter face. Once in the set position, place the meter switch in the Reference (REF) position and note the reading. Release the microphone switch and write this value down to the nearest tenth of a point. Note: If your antenna system is closely matched to the radio you may get little or no movement from the meter needle on this channel. This is normal.
Finally, place your radio on the highest number channel (40 on CB). Place the meter switch in the Forward (FWD) position, depress the microphone switch and adjust the meter to place the needle on the Set position of the meter face. Once in the set position, place the meter switch in the Reference (REF) position and note the reading. Release the microphone switch and write this value down to the nearest tenth of a point.




With these three readings, you can determine many things about your system. For instance ...
  • If SWR on channels 1, 19 & 40 is below 2.0, your radio can be safely operated on any channel without causing damage to the radio's circuitry.
  • If SWR on all channels is above 2.0 but not in the "red zone" (normally over 3.0), you may be experiencing coaxial cable reaction (bad quality, wrong length, etc.), insufficient ground plane, or have an ungrounded antenna mount.
  • If SWR is in the "red zone" on all channels, you probably have an electrical short in your coax connectors, or your mounting stud was installed incorrectly and is shorted. DO NOT USE YOUR RADIO UNTIL YOU HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM.
  • If SWR on the lowest channel is higher than it is on the highest channel, your antenna system appears to be electrically short. See the following section title "Adjusting Short Antennas".
ADJUSTING LONG ANTENNAS

If the SWR on channel 40 is greater than that on channel 1, your antenna is considered to be "LONG" and reduction of physical height and/or conductor length will correct this situation. Depending upon antenna model, this entails screwing down the tunable tip (Illustration #1: Firestik II, Firefly), or, removing the tip, making short slits in the plastic covering and unwinding and clipping off wire (Illustration #2: Firestik, Road Pal). Firestik Designer Series antennas require loosening the allen screws and lowering the metal whip (Illustration #3).
ADJUSTING SHORT ANTENNAS

If SWR on channel 1 is greater than that on channel 40, your antenna is considered to be "SHORT" and increasing the physical and/or electrical length of the antenna is required to correct this situation. Because we make our antennas extra long, readings which indicate "Short" normally stem from ground plane deficiency (lack of vehicle metal surface for the antenna to reflect its signal rom). This condition is often corrected by adding a spring and/or quick disconnect to increase the physical height. Ground plane deficiencies can also be compensated for by using dual (co-phased) antennas or special no-ground-plane antenna kits.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:19 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUSETACO View Post
Here this might help...
  • If SWR is in the "red zone" on all channels, you probably have an electrical short in your coax connectors, or your mounting stud was installed incorrectly and is shorted. DO NOT USE YOUR RADIO UNTIL YOU HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM.

Does anyone have a correct picture of the proper way to install a mounting stud? Cause i have a spring, and bend over mount too.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:21 PM   #29
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You have the Firering?

FireRing Stud Mount Installation

Compliments of Firestik® Antenna Company Technical Support Team

Copyright © 2007 Firestik® Antenna Company












Firestik Antenna Company - 2614 E Adams St - Phoenix, AZ 85034 - (Tel) 602-273-7151 - www.firestik.com

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Old 04-01-2012, 02:10 PM   #31
Just think outside the Yota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildlandtaco View Post
This should be a sticky
Yes it should be!

And no i dont have a fire ring, i have a regular connector
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:12 PM   #32
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I've never had luck tuning a firestik.

Do yourself a favor and buy a Wilson 5000. I've used three of them and all have had perfect swr out of the box. Best antenna on the market.
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:52 PM   #33
Just think outside the Yota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirginiaBound View Post
I've never had luck tuning a firestik.

Do yourself a favor and buy a Wilson 5000. I've used three of them and all have had perfect swr out of the box. Best antenna on the market.
I might buy a lil wil from a member on here if this doesnt work out
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:01 PM   #34
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I was having the exact same problem. Check your ground with a multimeter. I have the same set up and turned out I didn't have continuity between ground wire and frame. I ended up tapping into the ground wire for the tail light and had continuity between negative battery terminal and bracket, perfect ground. I got my readings from >10 on all channels to 1.1:1 on channel 1, and 1:1 on channel 19 and 40. Hope this helps
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:11 PM   #35
Just think outside the Yota
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i lost some of the washers and stuff... haha
this is what it looks like now(gonna go buy a 12+ coax cable, and a new spring)




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Old 04-01-2012, 03:19 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengland25 View Post
Make sure you get a ground strap. Wire generally isn't going to give you a decent ground unless it's a large gauge. I have a firestik II. The same thing as you and I have a 1.2 SWR on all channels just about. Just check the ground and make sure when tuning your away from building, cars, trees, etc. and have all windows rolled up and no people around. All of those affect your SWR. You should be able to tune it to a decent working SWR with that set up.
The issue is not needing an electrical ground. You need mass for the ground to create a good ground plane. strap is good but you need to keep it short.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drsus View Post
one tip i got years ago that helped a lot on the tuning of the antenna is to always run at least 12' of cable to the antenna....whether you need that much or not.

route the cable under your carpeting for the excess length in a way that its spread out, not all on top of itself.

works wonders
The reason why this works it because if you have enough coax shielding it can create a small ground plane. it is not ideal though. And if you coil up excess wire you can create inductance and feed back in the receive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trdNick View Post
I was having the exact same problem. Check your ground with a multimeter. I have the same set up and turned out I didn't have continuity between ground wire and frame. I ended up tapping into the ground wire for the tail light and had continuity between negative battery terminal and bracket, perfect ground. I got my readings from >10 on all channels to 1.1:1 on channel 1, and 1:1 on channel 19 and 40. Hope this helps
even if you have an electricl ground you may not have a true ground plane. the best way to have a ground plane is to have a large strap no longer than 24" to the frame. if your ground wire is too long it can actually introduce transient signals and act as a mini antenna.

you do not require an electrical ground. For proof look at mag mounts. the way they work is using magnetic flux as a connection on the sheet metal using the sheet metal as the ground plane. ground plane without an electrical ground.

I found it near impossible to get good ground plane on the bed rails due to the composite bed. the easiest way to get a good plane in the bed is using the bolts in the rear and bolt the mount to the bed support near the tail gate. Another way is to use 1" wide ground strap dirrectly to the frame. If there is a Ham Radio outlet near you they sell ground strap.
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:24 PM   #37
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i think i will order some 1" wide ground strap
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:26 PM   #38
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Your coax needs to be in 3 foot increments so let's say if you need 11 feet use 12. And if you have extra coax it needs to be coiled in a figure 8 pattern, not looped together. And a good ground to the frame is essential!
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:27 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CayucosTacoma View Post
i lost some of the washers and stuff... haha
this is what it looks like now(gonna go buy a 12+ coax cable, and a new spring)




hmmm it looks like the antenna is grounded out... you should have plastic washers to isolate the antenaa from the mount. check continuity between the antenna and the mount. It should be "open"
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoytoda View Post
The issue is not needing an electrical ground. You need mass for the ground to create a good ground plane. strap is good but you need to keep it short.



The reason why this works it because if you have enough coax shielding it can create a small ground plane. it is not ideal though. And if you coil up excess wire you can create inductance and feed back in the receive.



even if you have an electricl ground you may not have a true ground plane. the best way to have a ground plane is to have a large strap no longer than 24" to the frame. if your ground wire is too long it can actually introduce transient signals and act as a mini antenna.

you do not require an electrical ground. For proof look at mag mounts. the way they work is using magnetic flux as a connection on the sheet metal using the sheet metal as the ground plane. ground plane without an electrical ground.

I found it near impossible to get good ground plane on the bed rails due to the composite bed. the easiest way to get a good plane in the bed is using the bolts in the rear and bolt the mount to the bed support near the tail gate. Another way is to use 1" wide ground strap dirrectly to the frame. If there is a Ham Radio outlet near you they sell ground strap.
here's a pic of mine using a ground strap throught the bed and it goes straight to the frame.
X2
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